what are the four holes for in the bottom of the TO-30 differential case?

[8N Ren]

Yep that's the one, would be sweet to have.

Take a look underneath there must be a flat spot somewhere there.

 

[dbotos]

Just went out and looked at the axles tubes. They're about 5 inches in diameter where the letters are cast in there, but there's really not a whole lot of length to them between the diff and where the fenders / insides of the wheels are. Doesn't look like there'd be quite enough room to get a jack and jack stand on one tube. I may just stick with the center lift if I can figure out a good way to lock out the front axle from pivoting...

 

[Coyote machine]

If inside, can you run a 2x4 to the wall baseboard and back to the front tire on each side, then attach a 2x4 block at right angle to the end of the board from the baseboard, at the wheel so the tire can't hop up onto the long 2x4. This could keep the front wheels in place, while you jack up the back wheel/axle enough to remove it. I'd chock the backside of the front tires too to keep them stable.
What I use is my 2 ton floor jack to pickup the rear end enough to spin one side wheel when installing snow chains. You tractor is much lighter, so it shouldn't be a problem with a jack and jackstand.
BE CAREFUL about the wheel with tire weight; you may need two or more to safely move it without risk.:2cents:

 

[Mike476]

Just went out and looked at the axles tubes. They're about 5 inches in diameter where the letters are cast in there, but there's really not a whole lot of length to them between the diff and where the fenders / insides of the wheels are. Doesn't look like there'd be quite enough room to get a jack and jack stand on one tube. I may just stick with the center lift if I can figure out a good way to lock out the front axle from pivoting...

I think with the tractor properly chocked and the axle blocked to prevent roll you'll be ok, just be careful not to place yourself in a comprimised position. Block the rear axle once you get the tire(s) clear of the ground, don't try to work with it on the center jack.

After removing the top cover on mine by hand I started looking for an engine hoist, a used 2-ton hoist can be found pretty reasonably priced on Kijiji. The upper arm can be extended (with a loss of lift of course) and the lower arms at the base retracted to reach into some awkward places safely. Even with that it still requires that it be blocked using those nice axle stands you bought to secure it once clear of the ground. Point is that you are only lifting one side and are clear of the tractor through the lift, safety first.

 

[dbotos]

I checked the paper template on the diff this weekend - fits nicely and clears the drain plug just fine. Also took a look at the front axle - seems like it might be possible to block it between the axle and the frame piece underneath on both sides. Would just need to make sure that frame piece is strong enough and make the blocks so they can't pop out.

 

[Mike476]

No question it can be done; read about it here on TBN from guys who split their tractor and have had to block off the front axle to keep it from rolling prior to pulling the rear away.

 

[dbotos]

I searched on some posts and people just said to block it with wood. Grabbed a scrap of 2x4 this morning and it looks like it's just about the right thickness to fit between the axle and that frame piece. I think I can get one piece that will go all the way across is I shave some off the 3.5" dimension.

 

[Mike476]

Looks like it will do the job nicely

 

[dbotos]

I hope so. I'll lift slowly and check it as I do.

Made a little more progress on the jack adapter plate last night. When I had sliced off a piece of 2" NPT pipe for the ring that the head of the jack will sit in, the vise on our dry-cut saw at work was apparently not very well squared to the blade. The ends of the ring were out of square by about 1/16" across the diameter. My lathe (and its chuck) are pretty small, so I had to use a vee block in the mill to get one end square before putting it in the lathe to finish up. Got to practice my Etch-a-Sketch circle-making skills cranking the 1/2" end mill around the end face of the ring. :confused2:

 

[namyessam]

:

I hope so. I'll lift slowly and check it as I do.

My lathe (and its chuck) are pretty small, so I had to use a vee block in the mill to get one end square before putting it in the lathe to finish up. Got to practice my Etch-a-Sketch circle-making skills cranking the 1/2" end mill around the end face of the ring. :confused2:

Circular interpolation not working on your manual mill????:laughing::laughing: