135 UK hydraulic questions

   / 135 UK hydraulic questions
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I got the pipe into the cap and only shaved a bit off the ''washer'' It took considerable force and a hammer blow to get it in but it is now rock solid.
If the fit into the pump is as tight I believe it will require pushing in with the 2 bolts. As the pipe is squarely in the cap may I assume that it will line up correctly down below? I don't seem to have a mirror small enough to fit into the port.
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions #12  
G'Day rvds.

First thing to do is check and make sure the new standpipe is the same length as the old one,

Fit just the "O" rings to the standpipe and with the right hand sidecover removed ,(the one with the response lever fitted to it) put your left hand in but not right inside the housing, the Palm Of your hand should Wrap around the edge of the hole and you will be able to feel the standpipe locating hole with the tips of your fingers it is on the top of the pump ,feel for a Square surface with a hole in the centre that,s where the standpipe locates , if you are not sure ,start the engine on IDLE raise the draft lever to up then raise the position control lever slowly towards the transport position ,oil will come out of the hole, either look inside or VERY CAREFULLY PUT YOUR FINGERS INSIDE KEEPING THEM IN CONTACT WITH THE WALL OF THE CASING you will feel the oil coming out of the pump , there will be no significant pressure.
If you cannot fit the new standpipe with the Backup washers fitted The pipe can be fitted without them,they are there to create a SOFT seat for the "O" rings ,the earlier model tractors did not have backup washers fitted and although the system pressure was say 500 psi less they did not leak !!.

Something that may help ,I use a large Phillips head screwdriver ,find one that fits nice and neatly in the hole on the standpipe ,insert it into the pipe and use it as a HANDLE to guide the pipe into place ,as said you will feel the pipe drop into the hole ,when this happens give the end of the screwdriver a Bump with your hand and the pipe will drop in all the way,when it is fully in position it will stick out about 1/4 to 3/8" inch , fit a new "O" ring to the transfer cap making sure the small plug is facing towards the centre of the tractor otherwise you will block the hydraulic supply and guess what , No hydraulics .
Happy days.
Hutch.
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions
  • Thread Starter
#13  
G'Day rvds.

Something that may help ,I use a large Phillips head screwdriver ,find one that fits nice and neatly in the hole on the standpipe ,insert it into the pipe and use it as a HANDLE to guide the pipe into place ,as said you will feel the pipe drop into the hole ,when this happens give the end of the screwdriver a Bump with your hand and the pipe will drop in all the way,when it is fully in position it will stick out about 1/4 to 3/8" inch , fit a new "O" ring to the transfer cap making sure the small plug is facing towards the centre of the tractor otherwise you will block the hydraulic supply and guess what , No hydraulics .
Happy days.
Hutch.

Thanks for the tips hutch. As it was well seated in the cap I lowered it straight down with the bolt holes lined up and it sat straight with about a 1/4'' gap over the cover so it had to be right. I tightened the bolts evenly, started the tractor and the lift worked! We had about 12 hours of above freezing temps today and I badly wanted to get the oil flowing so it would absorb any water before it froze again. We've been getting a lot of minus 25 degrees lately and I split the pump wide open on a David Brown, the relief valve must have been full of ice.
The 135 now has trouble lifting the snowblower and the hydraulics judder while trying to lift. I presume my original problem was a stuck control valve rather than water in the oil. We will see if I still have lift tomorrow, It will be minus 17.
Rob
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Is there a way to know if the lowering rate control is engaged when the cover is replaced? I never use it.
Rob
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions #15  
No back up rings on mine, works like a charm. Was still a PITA to fit through the cap though.
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions #16  
G'day rvds.
Before you fit the sideplate set the response lever in the Fast position and make sure the adjusting screw Head is facing out and locates in the elongated slot then carefully fit the cover.
to check that the response is working , with an implement on the three point linkage ,raise the hydraulics then select SLOW on the response lever if the response is working the linkage will lower VERY SLOWLY if it doesn,t the operating cam is not in the correct location.
Be carefull and keep Little people well away from the machinery.

P.S. We dont have the freezing problems here ,today the forecast is for a cooler change 43 degrees" Celcius" Guess i should stay indoors and play on the computer.

Happy Days.
HUtch.
 
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   / 135 UK hydraulic questions
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I will have to check it out one day when it is warmer. As I mentioned I have unusual mud guards that extend down to the floor so I have to work from the left side. I will try to buy a smaller mirror that will fit in the hole before removing port hole next time. Any thoughts on the juddering? It is bad enough that I have trouble aiming my bale spears. The 3pt is weak but has been for quite a while. Has anybody ever back fed the cover plate to use the 3 pt with an external hydraulic pump?
Rob
 
   / 135 UK hydraulic questions #18  
The juddering can be caused by a few things:

Stuck Suction valve on the pump ,(There are four ) effectivly reducing the hydraulic pump flow by 25% OR A stuck discharge Valve but less likely as this would reduce the hydraulic oil flow AND discharge pressure.

Incorrect adjustment OR damage to the hydraulic control linkage which can in some situations cause the pump to Judder.

Broken Pump locating dowel pegs allowing the pump to Float ( move back and forth inside the Transmission housing )which in some instances can be related to the last point.

Broken dowel pegs are reasonably common usually caused by P.T.O.driven implements being fitted and the P.T.O. shaft being to long resulting in the shaft effectivley being TO long in the fully compressed state ,this will only be obvious when the linkage is RAISED TO THE TRANSPORT POSITION ,this then PUSHES the P.T.O.shaft into the gearbox and the first obstruction is the Dowel Pegs, to check ,do one at a time, drain the the transmisssion oil,Look for the small oval shaped plates with two Studs/Nuts, 1/2 a/f spanner/wrench.
remove either one by undoing the two nuts on the peg flange ( near the bottom of the transmission housing about where your Heel would be if your foot was on the Clutch/Brake ,remove the peg and if all is good the peg will have the small dowel on the end ,if broken the peg will come out as a flat plate ,if you find the peg IS broken it is possible to replace by using a magnet to remove the broken piece and fitting a new peg.

I should mention ,ONE reason the shaft is telescopic and one that is quite often overlooked is the fact that the P.T.O.pivot point is not on the same Axis as the Linkage which results in the shaft Extending When the linkage is lowered AND Compresses when the linkage is Raised .

Just another important point on P.T.O. shafts :

The safety shield should always be operational and in good serviceable condition,always check BEFORE use.

Lubricate the two halves of the shaft and always check that the shaft is indeed telescopic and is travelling within the areas of operation that is , when fully compressed the shaft should still be able to be compressed at least another two inches with the Linkage raised to transport ,a good guide is that you should be able to ,with the P.T.O.shaft connected to the tractor and raised to the Transport position try to remove the shaft ,it should slide off at least two inches if it does ,lower the linkage ,down as far as possible and remove the P.T.O. drive shaft and check ,make sure there is at least say three/ four inches of shaft engagement if all is o.k. you are good to go.

A restriction on the hydraulic supply to the pump can also cause the pump to Cavitate ,(Draw in air) ,which will cause the pump to Shudder ,most common cause is a blocked Suction filter.

The Three point Linkake toplink draft spring adjustment can also cause the hydraulics to Shudder if the spring is either broken or out of adjustment.

There are other faults that can affect the pump performance but the points above are the most likely to cause Juddering /Pulsation of the system, if you consider the fact that the pump is a four cylinder unit and if one CYLINDER was not operating properly it would cause a miss , kind of like a four cylinder engine with a bad Spark plug.

Adding External hydraulic supply:
I see no reason why providing there is a hydraulic pressure releif valve in the system that does not allow the pressure to go above the factory pump pressure which can be as low as 2250 to 2550 to be on the safe side.
To introduce external supply make sure the hydraulic control levers are both in the down /lower position and stay there undo the two setscrews that locate the transfer cap ,the one with the standpipe attached and rotate the cap 1/2 turn effectively blocking the PUMP supply to the linkage then removing one of three plugs on the lift cover,one either side near the front of the cover ,3/8 inch bsp/npt dry thread or the one on top left hand side . the NUT has TWO flats and is sealed by a Dowty Washer ,a steel washer with an O ring type seal inside ,you can connect to this using a 3/8 Inch BSPP fitting.

If You fit a Three spool hydraulic control valve you will then be able to operate the linkage using a SINGLE ACTING SPOOL VALVE ,Pull to raise Release to Hold and Push to lower the linkage,and the other two spools to operate the front end loader, bear in mind that neither the original pump or controls will be operational and to avoid the possibility of the pump running under constant pressure ,make sure tyhe quadrant levers are secured in the down position.

You can still buy a front mounted pump drive shaft and hub which bolts onto the standard front crankshaft pulley ,the bolt holes are already drilled and tapped on the engine pulley ,just check some tractors did not have the holes ,there are lots of pumps that will suit , a pump with say 10 to 12 gallons per minute would be enough any more and you will find that you will stall the engine when using the loader.

Thats all for now, Beer O' Clock.
Happy Days.
Hutch.
 
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