135 UK hydraulic questions

[rvds]

We are having a pretty severe winter here and I need my little tractor! The 3pt was being slow to go down and after an hour of snow blowing would no longer lift so I did a transmission oil change. This normally solves the problem, the tractor lives outside and we had a very wet year. While waiting for the oil to drain I decided to take the cover off the standpipe because I am having issues with the crank driven pump for the loader. The pipe came out with the cover so when I try to replace the pipe I do not know how much it should protrude when seated in the pump. Neither do I know if I am in the pump at all. The hydraulics did not work so I took the little cover back off and played with the stand pipe. Then I decided that to see if it was in the right place I should run the motor, and at one point I got oil oozing up the standpipe. Unfortunately while I was feeling around with the pipe, it got caught in a gear and the end was crushed so that I could not even pull the standpipe out.I removed the side cover and have removed the old pipe. I can not see much in the casing because the fenders I have are a strange model that come right down to the floor. To remove the fender would be a pain because the tractor has a ROPS on the axle and the loader mounted under. The loader's valve is also making access difficult.
I now have a brand new standpipe in hand and I need some suggestions for reinserting the standpipe, preferably from the left side. I would like to know how much the pipe should protrude, and how much oil should spout when cranking over the engine. If I preinsert the standpipe in the little cover should I push it all the way till it bottoms? If I have it in the little cover and perfectly perpendicular should it go straight into the correct seat on the pump? I still don't now if my hydraulics will work with the new oil so troubleshooting is problematic.
So what is the standard procedure for inserting the stand pipe? I find the factory service manual woefully unhelpful.
Thanks and Happy New Year!
Rob

 

[rvds]

I just unpacked the new standpipe. The backer washer is a spiral of plastic that makes nearly 3 turns of the pipe. There is no way I can insert it in the cover, let alone doing it blind down in the pump. HELP!
Thanks, Rob

 

[klancf51]

I agree - the manuals aren't real helpful on this. My 135 has pressure control and the standpipe is 883788M91 which is different from yours (assuming that you have standpipe part number 898229M1). However, you should be able to easily refit the standpipe from the top (through the hole in the lift cover). Make sure you have new O-rings (195561M1) and that you have both O-ring backup washers (195874M1). There may also be O-ring 195561M1 fitted in a recess on the standpipe cap.

Here's what I would do: install the new O-rings to the standpipe (and to the standpipe cap if required). Insert the standpipe in the standpipe cap. You can then then use the standpipe cap to manuver the standpipe through the top cover and to carefully locate the bottom of the standpipe into the pump recess. When you find the pump recess you will feel the standpipe "drop" into it (it may also help to locate the pump recess via the side port since you already have the cover removed). When you think you have the bottom of the standpipe in the pump recess, push down on the standpipe cap and you will feel the standpipe seat itself. Tighten the two cap screws on the standpipe cap (55 ft-lbs). Start the tractor at idle speed and raise the lift. Verify that there are no standpipe leaks by viewing the standpipe from the port. Also look for leaks from the hydraulic cylinder. If the cylinder or standpipe is leaking, you should be able to see hydraulic fluid flowing downward. If the standpipe is leaking at the pump recess, fluid will bubble up from pump near the bottom of the standpipe (and the lift will not raise). If you don't see any leaks, then the lift should raise at full power and lower. Do this a couple of times to remove air from the system. Raise the lift fully, stop the tractor and again look for leaks. If lift raises and lowers and everything appears sealed, re-install the side cover and fill the transmission with fluid.

Also, here is a troubleshooting guide (courtesy of Big Dean Austin):
TROUBLE SHOOTING THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
The hydraulic lift leaking down is caused by a leak in the hydraulic system. Possible causes are:
- a cracked lift cylinder,
- an O-ring that goes between the cylinder and the lift cover,
- the O-rings on the standpipe,
- the pump control valve,
- the system relief valve.
1. The first thing to check is the standpipe O-rings. You do that by removing the transfer cap. and the standpipe which has an O-ring and backup washers on each end. If the O-rings are both in good condition then that is not the problem.
2. Drain the oil down to just below the bottom bolt hole for the access plate. Remove the access plate on the right side of the rear center housing it is the plate with the response lever and the dipstick in it. Try to lift something with the lift and look inside to see if you have oil running down from the top. If you do have you have a lift cylinder problem.
3. Look around the right rear corner of the pump for heavy turbulence. If heavy turbulence is present then you have a faulty relief valve.
4. It is probably the pump control valve or something else in the pump bad. The pump has to be removed to check it.
5. For Steps 2, 3 & 4 the top cover has to be removed to make the repairs. Before lifting of the top cover, be sure to remove the roller.

 

[klancf51]

The backup washers (195874M1) should fit neatly into the grooves in the standpipe, just like the O-rings (and right next to each O-ring). If the O-ring fits the standpipe, the backup washer should too; the washer is approximately the same dimension as the O-ring.

 

[rvds]

The washer is not a washer, it is a strip of white plastic wound like a spring. It sits way proud of the large diameter of the pipe. When I try to insert the pipe in the cap the oring backs up expanding the washer even more. I tried 2 orings and was unable to insert the pipe without possibly damaging the second oring.
the old back washer was the same but only enough length to go around in the groove once.
Rob

 

[rvds]

My new standpipe is 898229V1 rather than M1
The part arrived at the dealer with orings and backers installed.
I brought home a couple of extra orings just in case but not backup washers though I think they were a stock item.
The real problem is that my dealer closed and the new dealer was AGCO before and not fond of Massey. Now his Whole line of new tractors are red.
The old dealer I could have called at home with problems like this.
Rob

 

[rvds]

My new standpipe is 898229V1 rather than M1
The part arrived at the dealer with orings and backers installed.
I brought home a couple of extra orings just in case but not backup washers though I think they were a stock item.
The real problem is that my dealer closed and the new dealer was AGCO before and not fond of Massey. Now his Whole line of new tractors are red.
The old dealer I could have called at home with problems like this.
Rob

 

[klancf51]

The backup washer looks like a white nylon spiral - this is correct. It should fit neatly in the groove right next to the O-ring with neither displacing the other. Are you sure the O-ring is correct? 195561M1 should be 3/8" I.D. x 1/16" thickness. If possible try the backup washer and O-ring on an undamaged part the old standpipe - see if it fits in the cap.

 

[rvds]

oring should be correct, same as the spares they sold me. spiral would have to be wound tight to stay in groove without sitting too proud. I can see getting it into the little cap while in the house, but never getting it down into the seat out in the cold. I will try to set up a mirror so as to lookinside the case through the port. the oil is an inch below port, is that higher than where the standpipe must seat? I have had it 40 years and never seen inside, it is too bad there don't seem to be applicable you tube vids on doing this.
Rob

 

[klancf51]

If the standpipe with O-ring fits into the cap, it should fit into the pump. The spiral of the backup washer should be tight - it should look almost like solid nylon. If the side port is open, you should be able to see pump recess with a mirror. Try this: remove the washer and O-ring from the bottom of the standpipe and then fit the standpipe from the top to get a feel for the location of the pump recess. You should be able to see the standpipe drop in the recess through the side cover if you illuminate and use a mirror. This should help you establish the orientation of the part.