MF 135 Hydraulic 3 Point Hitch Questions

[termyte14]

I recently purchased a Massey Ferguson 135 with the 3 cylinder Perkins gas engine. It does not have multi-power. I could tell the three point hitch did not work correctly when I bought it. With nothing attached and the draft and position arms in the fully down position, the lift arms would drag the ground. The fluid was milky white and over full on the dip stick. I have drained the fluid (between 9 and 10 gallons) and flushed with diesel fuel. I removed both side inspection covers and could see a cracked piston on the hydraulic pump and the piston return spring was hanging out of the draft response dashpot. I have since removed the hydraulic lift cover and the pump and found both pistons to be cracked. I plan on getting a new/refurbished pump, mine has the horizontal relief valve.

-What are your thoughts on the pumps offered on eBay for approximately $400?
-Will a pump with a vertical relief valve work?
-What do I need to know/verify/check to ensure the new pump is the correct one? (The old pump has 10 splines and the camshaft measures 1.312 on the shaft or 1.357 on the raised lip by the splines.)
-My dealer tells me the missing plug from the dashpot is nothing more than a 3/4" freeze plug, do ya'll agree? All other parts appear to be there.
-What type of oil shold go back in? My dealer advised against the TSC Universal fluid that has the MF number referenced. They recommend a straight 90W mineral gear oil. I found this at TSC labeled as Ford Tractor fluid, any thoughts?
-Will I need to do any of the adjustments to the hydraulic lift cover that are stated in the manual?
-If so, where do you get the special tools required?

Thanks in advance for your help. I have already learned a ton to get this far with this project through referencing different threads here.

Thanks, Michael

 

[The kid]

There should only only eight gallons of oil inside for hydraulics and rear. More than that you will be leaking out thru the wheel seals. As for ebay pumps. They are rebuilt pumps. Get an estimate on rebuilding yours before buying a rebuilt one. As for oil type. TSC's hydraulic oil is M-1129 compliant and is compatible with the MF135. Many here use it with no side effects. You can buy it in five gallons and two gallons. Don't forget to swap those shifter boots where water most commonly enters the sump. Check your PTO seal for leaks. Check the bottom cotter pin for dripping oil. Question is. Why did it have so much hydraulic oil in it? Oh yeah.. pictures... Where are the pictures?

 

[SIMassey]

There should only only eight gallons of oil inside for hydraulics and rear. Question is. Why did it have so much hydraulic oil in it?

From the milky color of the fluid as the OP states, it sounds like the oil was full of water being that much overfull on the dipstick and draining 9 to 10 gallons out. could that much water in the oil freeze and break the pistons on the pump?

Does this look more like it??

 

[termyte14]

There should only only eight gallons of oil inside for hydraulics and rear. More than that you will be leaking out thru the wheel seals. As for ebay pumps. They are rebuilt pumps. Get an estimate on rebuilding yours before buying a rebuilt one. As for oil type. TSC's hydraulic oil is M-1129 compliant and is compatible with the MF135. Many here use it with no side effects. You can buy it in five gallons and two gallons. Don't forget to swap those shifter boots where water most commonly enters the sump. Check your PTO seal for leaks. Check the bottom cotter pin for dripping oil. Question is. Why did it have so much hydraulic oil in it? Oh yeah.. pictures... Where are the pictures?

OK, I'm new to the forum so here goes for the pictures. I had presumed the shifter boots based on a number of threads here so new ones are already installed. Attached are two pictures of the cracked pump pistons and one picture of the missing plug from the dashpot. I will check on getting a quote to have someone rebuild the pump, I just felt it may be easier to buy a pump for $400 rather than a kit for $200 and risk screwing something up. Also figured since I had already pulled the PTO shaft out, I would replace the seal and O-ring as I checked with the dealer and can get both for about $8.

Would any of these issues cause the lift arms to drag the ground with both levers in the down position?

 

[The kid]

OK, I'm new to the forum so here goes for the pictures. I had presumed the shifter boots based on a number of threads here so new ones are already installed. Attached are two pictures of the cracked pump pistons and one picture of the missing plug from the dashpot. I will check on getting a quote to have someone rebuild the pump, I just felt it may be easier to buy a pump for $400 rather than a kit for $200 and risk screwing something up. Also figured since I had already pulled the PTO shaft out, I would replace the seal and O-ring as I checked with the dealer and can get both for about $8. Would any of these issues cause the lift arms to drag the ground with both levers in the down position? <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355065"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355066"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355067"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=355068"/>

If both lever where down the lift ares are suppose to drop. Or forward. The draft control remains up buy not quite all the way or if could cause constant pumping. The position control (inner towards seat) raises and lowers the three point hitch. You did try to lift the arms by raising the levers while running right? The draft control is only used if your pulling a plow which compensates for uneven ground and keeps the plow gliding evenly over the terrain. The lower lever by your right foot siting on the tractor is the speed controlling the rate of lift and fall. This the embossed fast slow on it. Assuming you have already tested the lift with the levers or you wouldn't be inside it. :smile: BTW welcome to the forum. -kid

 

[SIMassey]

If both lever where down the lift ares are suppose to drop. Or forward. The draft control remains up buy not quite all the way or if could cause constant pumping. The position control (inner towards seat) raises and lowers the three point hitch. You did try to lift the arms by raising the levers while running right? The draft control is only used if your pulling a plow which compensates for uneven ground and keeps the plow gliding evenly over the terrain. The lower lever by your right foot siting on the tractor is the speed controlling the rate of lift and fall. This the embossed fast slow on it. Assuming you have already tested the lift with the levers or you wouldn't be inside it. :smile: BTW welcome to the forum. -kid

Constant pumping is on the position lever and not the draft lever.

 

[termyte14]

Yes, with both levers up, the lift arms would raise. I was unfamiliar with the multiple levers as my only other experience is with a Ford 3000 which only has the position lever and something totally different for the draft. I do not feel the lift arms were lifting to the full capability, presumably because of the condition of the pump and oil.

Thoughts on the freeze plug for the dashpot?

Thanks, Michael

 

[Xfaxman]

There should only only eight gallons of oil inside for hydraulics and rear. Question is. Why did it have so much hydraulic oil in it?

From the milky color of the fluid as the OP states, it sounds like the oil was full of water being that much overfull on the dipstick and draining 9 to 10 gallons out. could that much water in the oil freeze and break the pistons on the pump?

SIMassey, the confusion was caused when you edited the quote. You deleted the "[/QUOTE]" at the end of The kid's post. I put it back in, above to show the difference.

This is how I do it:

There should only only eight gallons of oil inside for hydraulics and rear. ----------- Question is. Why did it have so much hydraulic oil in it?--------------

Highlight what you want to delete, then hold down the dash or any special character you want to show up where text was deleted. Be careful not to delete the "[/QUOTE]" at the end of the post.

 

[SIMassey]

Thanks, none the less it still reads the same, not your fault.

 

[Xfaxman]

-----------
Would any of these issues cause the lift arms to drag the ground with both levers in the down position?
-----------------

Don't know, needed to see pictures of the lift arms and lift links before you took it apart. Do you have a Shop Manual? There should be a procedure to set the height. Are the rear wheels and tires smaller than than original?

---------

Thoughts on the freeze plug for the dashpot?

Thanks, Michael

Get the part number, do a Google search and also on eBay.