MF135 hydraulic control lever stiff

[bryanp66]

I have a 135 with a tight/stiff postion control lever. The draft control lever moves freely. The hydraulics on the tractor work fine. I haven't owned this tractor very long. Is it normal for it to be stiff or is something binding up?

Thanks

Bryan

 

[MFIHCAT]

Should not be "stiff", but that is a relative term. It is possible that draft and position tubes that go into right side of lift cover are stuck together. One is a hollow tube and the other is a rod that goes thru hollow tube. There is also a small roll pin that likes to break. To get them free again you usually have to remove lift cover and take out/disassemble draft and position tube/rod.

 

[bryanp66]

That wasn't the answer I was hoping for . I have the tractor down for a repaint right now, so it would be the perfect time to fix it. Actually, I haven't ran the tractor in over a year and can't remember if the lever is tight when the engine is running or not, but not running it is really tight. I can move it through the full range, but it takes some effort. The draft control lever moves much easier. I am mechanically inclined, and I am not afraid to jump into it, but I have a reprint of the service manual and the pictures aren't as clear as they should be. Any tips you can pass along to do this job? Even though the hydraulic oil looks good on the dipstick, I am going to drain the entire system, clean the filter, and refill, so this is the perfect time to just fix it.

 

[bryanp66]

Is there any way to take the quadrant apart with the lift cover still on the tractor?

 

[MFIHCAT]

The lift cover must be off to remove quadrant assy from lift cover. That model is pretty easy to remove lift cover. No sense in new paint on a machine that doesn't work right. If it has mounted dash pot drain oil, remove right side cover and remove roller from hyd pump control valve. Remove rectangular plate off lift cover. It has two bolts and is at right front area of lift cover. Remove stand pipe. Some people skip that step and add the step that involves removing broken stand pipe from pump. If the lift cover shifts while lifting it off the stand pipe can break off, usually flush with pump. Remove bolts that hold lift cover to center housing and lift the cover straight up. With the lift cover upside down you will find a pin that holds quadrant to lift cover housing. That pin is threaded, #8 or #10 machine screw, I don't remember the exact size. But with right size machine screw you can pull pin. I use a long enough screw with the correct size nut for screw then washer and nut with ID big enough to fit over OD of pin to pull out. You are just making a small puller with the machine screw and nuts and washer. Then you can wiggle quadrant out of housing. If the tube and metal rod are stuck together, you will have to hold you mouth just right to get it off the internal linkage. From there its a matter of breaking them loose.

 

[MFIHCAT]

The draft lever probably moves freely because its little roll pin is sheared because tube and rod are stuck.

 

[bryanp66]

Doesn't sound too bad. I assume I will have to use the engine hoist to pull it? I know its way to heavy, even for two guys. Following your directions, which adjustments out of the service manual will I have to make before putting the cover back on?

 

[bryanp66]

If there is any sludge in the case after it is drained what is the best way to clean it out? Flush it with diesel? Also I noticed the the top yoke for the 3 point is a little loose where it goes into the lift cover. Is this normal? I would like to fix it all at one time if it needs it since the system will be drained and the cover off.

 

[MFIHCAT]

I have pulled covers with a helper, years ago. Use an engine hoist. Put a 7/16 eye bolt in front seat mont hole, that will get it close to being level as you lift it off. I use an adapter that I custom built that bolts to seat mount holes with lifting eye and plate on it that mounts on engine stand. Makes it a lot easier to roll it over. The service manual will show the adj. you need to do. Basicaly you need a small spring scale and a feeler gauge. If you can guesstimate a three pound pull with your fingers you dont need spring scale. That one might call for a block to keep lift arms in up position during adjustment, but you can fabricate that also. Massey 3pt tool kit is a lot of tools you dont really need. Depends on how much sludge is in the case. Tractors without aux hyd you can pull pump out without splitting tractor. If there is sludge in center housing, its also in trans. Either disassemble or flush it out the best you can. Master control spring should have no in and out movement. It will have some side movement if the linkage bushing are worn. You will want to put new boot on there.

 

[bryanp66]

Thanks so much for all of your time to write it up for me. Just a couple more questions before I order parts. Any tips on readjusting the play in the top yoke? It has about 1/16" end play in it. Also before I place the parts order, are there any seals or o rings that need to be replaced in the lever quadrant?