3-Point Hitch Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal?

   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal? #1  

bullmastiff

New member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Springfield, MO
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 135
The hydraulics stopped working on my 1974 Massey Ferguson 135 (3 cyl Perkins gas, dual stage clutch, no multi power). I've had it for ten years with no problems. I haven't used the lift since autumn several weeks ago (worked fine then). The other day when it was really cold, the lift just wouldn't do anything. I checked the dipstick and it was milky brown--water apparently. I'm hoping that a fluid change will get it working again. I need it to take hay bales to my horses every week, so time is important.

I got the I&T shop manual, but it doesn't seem very helpful. I'm assuming I should change the filter while I'm at it, but I'm not sure if that's necessary. I'm also not sure if a filter change requires lift cover removal. I'm not sure that's a task I'm equipped for. I was hoping either I could avoid filter change by flushing with diesel or that I could access the filter for change through one of the side covers. I have non-professional experience working on cars several years ago, but I'm not experienced with tractors.

I'd welcome some guidance.
 
   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal? #2  
The hydraulics stopped working on my 1974 Massey Ferguson 135 (3 cyl Perkins gas, dual stage clutch, no multi power). I've had it for ten years with no problems. I haven't used the lift since autumn several weeks ago (worked fine then). The other day when it was really cold, the lift just wouldn't do anything. I checked the dipstick and it was milky brown--water apparently. I'm hoping that a fluid change will get it working again. I need it to take hay bales to my horses every week, so time is important.

I got the I&T shop manual, but it doesn't seem very helpful. I'm assuming I should change the filter while I'm at it, but I'm not sure if that's necessary. I'm also not sure if a filter change requires lift cover removal. I'm not sure that's a task I'm equipped for. I was hoping either I could avoid filter change by flushing with diesel or that I could access the filter for change through one of the side covers. I have non-professional experience working on cars several years ago, but I'm not experienced with tractors.

I'd welcome some guidance.

Filter screen is accessable through PTO lever cover after draining fluid. There are two drain plugs both on left hand side. eight gallons plus water. Filter screen screw is retained by a safety wire. Be sure to replace. O ring under filter assembly. Keep upright and do not dump it till you have it outside the trans case or you will dump dirt back into trans. Flush with diesel to get extra dirt out. You could use a garden pump up pressure sprayer with diesel to spray around inside and flush out.
 
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   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thank you, SIMassey, for the helpful info. I've read references to a "safety wire" on the screen before. Is it something that must be detached and then reattached, or is it simply a kind of tether for the screw (or both). Maybe it will be apparent when I get into the project. I'm hoping that simply draining and flushing (without removing the screen) will adequately clean out all the sludgy oil & any debris that may be preventing the lift from working, but I guess time will tell.

This would be so much easier if I had the proper manual. The I&T shop manual is very small and seems to leave out a lot. I've looked for operator's, parts, and repair manuals online but there are several choices, many seem to be reproductions (causing me to wonder about the quality), and some are quite expensive. Does anyone have tips for getting the right manuals and what I should expect to pay (approximate)?
 
   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal? #4  
Thank you, SIMassey, for the helpful info. I've read references to a "safety wire" on the screen before. Is it something that must be detached and then reattached, or is it simply a kind of tether for the screw (or both). Maybe it will be apparent when I get into the project. I'm hoping that simply draining and flushing (without removing the screen) will adequately clean out all the sludgy oil & any debris that may be preventing the lift from working, but I guess time will tell.

This would be so much easier if I had the proper manual. The I&T shop manual is very small and seems to leave out a lot. I've looked for operator's, parts, and repair manuals online but there are several choices, many seem to be reproductions (causing me to wonder about the quality), and some are quite expensive. Does anyone have tips for getting the right manuals and what I should expect to pay (approximate)?

I have the I&T manual also. From what I have read here, General consensus is the genuine Massey owners and service manuals. Other posters have purchased them on e-bay or a dealer.

The safety wire must be cut to remove. If it has never been removed before, the factory wire is wound pretty tight. The wire must be replaced or the screw may come loose and the filter cover can jam up the pto lever linkage. Have seen that here. My filter screen was deteriorated and needed to be replaced since it was not filtering the oil.
 
   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal? #5  
I rebuilt my filter using some new copper mesh from McMaster Carr. I used copper so as to be able to solder the folds.
DSCN3117.JPGDSCN3120.JPG
 
   / Does hydraulic filter change require lift cover removal?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
It's been a while but I wanted to say thanks for the help and report back that I successfully changed my hydraulic fluid and the lift is working fine. When I opened up the fill hole & looked with a flash light, I saw coffee-colored ice slush. Uh... no wonder the lift didn't work. It had been below freezing for a while when I tried to move a bale of hay to the horses and it wouldn't budge. I kept the tractor in the garage a night or two to help thaw, but I still used my wife's hair dryer set on hot blowing into the fill hole with both drain plugs out. After thorough draining, I filled with 5 gallons of diesel and drove for 5 minutes. Then drained and filled with new UTF hydraulic fluid. Works great. I was not confident to try messing with the filter screen and retaining screw and wire since I have no photos or diagrams. Thankfully, it seems that wasn't necessary. I appreciate the info I got here.
 
 
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