New MF165 Onwer with Questions

[iMaBadMF]

I'm new to tractor ownership. My wife grew up in farm country driving "tractors" (so old, rusted, and beat up they weren't identifiable as any particular brand), but that's been a few decades. We have 11 acres and bought a mid/late 60s 165 with a Continental G176. Engine runs great, gearboxes shift well. 3 point works well. It's a work tractor and not a show tractor, but we like it that way. Although I'm new to tractors, I do all my own work on our vehicles and used to be a professional auto mechanic, so I'm no stranger to turning wrenches.

I have a few tractor-specific questions.

1) I need to get a dipstick for the engine. Are there recommended sources for engine related parts?
1a) Related question:
2) This engine still has the canister oil filter. Do most people convert them to spin-on filter, or keep canister?
3) What sort of oil do most people put in these engines?
4) What sort of oil is recommended for gearboxes, etc. as well as change intervals?
5) The left two headlights seem like they are missing some parts (headlights aren't physically there, and I don't see parts for mounting them, just the bowls). Is there a place where I can find exploded parts diagrams and parts for this area?
6) We do want to get a front end loader. What should I look for/ask for in order to make sure it will fit?

Thanks!

 

[Kenneth S]

1) The dipstick is part number 1753835M1 should be available through your local dealer, or parts places you can find online.
1a) There is a adaptor kit to change the oil filter to a spin-on Massey Ferguson Spin on Adaptor Kit w Oil Filter 1051113M1 1051114M1 1069954M | eBay
2) Most convert to a spin-on filter.
3) I run Shell Rotella 15w40 engine oil
4) Most universal transmission/hydraulic fluids that are sold meet MF Spec. M-1129A. Best to get two 5 gallon buckets of it. The intervals depends on how hard you use it.
5) For parts go here AGCO Parts Books log in as guest user, then search the model number of your tractor you will everything you need there for part numbers.
6) Just about any front end loader manufacturers should have a loader that has the proper mounting brackets for your tractor. Since you have a agricultural, and not a industrial tractor I'd stay away from a heavy duty loader since some of the front axle parts are lighter than an industrial tractor.

Since you are good with cars you should have no problems working on it (to me tractors are way easier to work on than a car most times).

 

[Harry in Ky]

While I agree with what's been stated above, I just want to add my two cents. If you're really serious about a loader I suggest a bit more research before spending any money. What you have is not a loader friendly tractor. Even with an auxiliary hydraulic pump(standard equipment with a multipower transmission, optional with the 8 x 2) supplying hydraulics for/to a loader is awkward at best, complicated to use in most cases, and very limited in performance. Before pricing loaders, I recommend you locate someone within driving distance with a Massey tractor w/loader and pay him a visit. It really doesn't matter what model Massey he has, as the important thing is a similar trans/hydraulic system to your 165. There must be 100 different models over the years, some still in production somewhere in the world, that utilize the system you have. Once you understand what you're up against, and weigh the pros and cons, you may change your mind. While the tractor "as is" may suit many of your needs, adding a loader is not just simply nuts and bolts.

 

[iMaBadMF]

I appreciate the advice and insight. I've ordered the few parts that the tractor needs, plus I'll be converting it to spin-on. Any idea how much oil the G176 takes so I can plan accordingly when I go buy oil for it?

My use of this tractor will likely be fairly light duty. I'd be very surprised if it saw more than 100 hours per year of use, and I think 50 is more accurate. We're figuring on getting a finish mower for it to mow our property (11 acres, about 8 of which are mowable), maintain the gravel driveway, plow snow in the winter, and move some things around with the loader. I'm not looking at doing any serious work with a loader, and we'll likely wait until next year before buying one anyway, unless a great deal shows up. But in order to identify a great deal, I need to know what loaders will fit or how to identify ones that will.

I'd expect use to be 50-75% mowing/brush hog, and then the rest of the use be without anything on the PTO. Either moving a trailer around, moving ground with the blade, raking the gravel driveway, etc. Given that, what would you figure for engine and other fluid changes? Supposedly 2 owners ago always had the tractor taken care of by the local experts once a year, but then the guy I bought it from did nothing but put gas in it for the 1-2 years he had it. He almost never used it, though, which is why he sold it.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Kenneth S]

Back when I worked on heavy equipment for a construction company the air, fuel, oil filter, and oil were changed every 250 hours. So for what you using it for less than 250 a year change the fuel, oil filter, and oil once a year (for a G176 it should take 6 quarts). For the trans/hydraulic oil it was sampled every 500 hours, and changed every 2000 hours (unless a oil sample came back bad). On the trans/hydraulic oil for your use keep an eye on it, if it starts to get milky in color change it. Whenever you use the tractor even for a quick job run it long enough so that the coolant gets hot, and circulates some, plus it will let the muffler get hot enough to dry out any moisture that could be in the muffler. One last thing is the planetaries on the rear axle there is a fill, and a drain plug. I'd drain the oil out of both of them, fill them with good 90wt gear oil, and check the oil level in them 2, or 3 times a year (they seem to get neglected the most).

On the front end loader if you use the MF hydraulic pump the loader will be slow since the MF pump only flows 4.5 gallons per minute. A fel works best with a pump that flows around 14 gpm. You can still get the parts to mount a hydraulic pump off the front of the tractor which would leave your pto free rather than running a pump off the pto. Massey Ferguson made a model 32, model 99, model 100, and model 200. Koyker sells a model 220 loader for a 165 that has a capacity of 2750 lbs, the MF model 32 has a capacity of 2500 lbs. Since you don't have a industrial tractor I'd suggest a smaller bucket, and give all the front axle pivots, steering joints, and spindles a shot of grease once a day. Also make sure the front wheel bearings are in good shape, if in doubt replace them, and pack them in good wheel bearing grease.

 

[iMaBadMF]

It sounds like once a year on the oil will be fine. I'll use Rotella, I use that in basically all of my work engines anyway. I'll change the gearbox and differential fluids as well, since I have no idea when those were last done.

Two questions I have:

1) How do I adjust the brakes? They don't seem to be doing much.

2) Where is a good source to order a new PTO shaft shield? My local Tractor Supply has very poor selection.

 

[Kenneth S]

Block the front wheels so it can't roll, jack up the rear end until the tires are just off the ground, and block it up. Un-hook the rods going the brake levers, turn the tire while tightening the adjusting nut until you feel brake just start to drag. Put the rods back on, and adjust them so both pedals stop in the same place (you want about 1 inch of free play in the brake pedals). Lock the brake pedals together then test the brakes to make sure they stop evenly. You may have to re-adjust the brakes to make it stop evenly, if they won't adjust, or stop evenly you probably need new brakes.