Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #1  
L

lmbr

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
8
Location
Lindale, TX
Tractor
MF 165
I am replacing the gauges and the wires on my 165 diesel. Needless to say there are not a lot of good wiring diagrams (that I can find). Also the wiring on the voltage regulator. Replacing the fuel sending unit also. The VR wiring diagrams I have seen dont look like the connections on mine. Also there is a wire going from the VR to what looks like a possible fuse holder or light socket but it has no other wires on it and is mounted on the bracket next to the battery. There is also a device mounted beside it with nothing connected to it. Needless to say what should be a fairly easy job has become pretty frustrating. :confused:
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel
  • Thread Starter
#2  
One other problem. I need to replace the steering wheel. Had the same problem on my 135. Rust and I cannot figure out how to break it loose to remove the old steering wheel. The shape of the hub will no hold a puller unless I just don't know what type of puller to use. Surely it is not screwed on?
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #3  
lmbr said:
One other problem. I need to replace the steering wheel. Had the same problem on my 135. Rust and I cannot figure out how to break it loose to remove the old steering wheel. The shape of the hub will no hold a puller unless I just don't know what type of puller to use. Surely it is not screwed on?
Click to expand...

I removed three steering wheels on tractors here (two of mine and one of a mate's) the same day - while I had the use of a heavy-calibre puller. The wheel mounts on a rather small tapered shaft with a key, and is unbelievably tight! There are no threads in hub for puller bolts. This is how I did it: Good Luck! :thumbsup:

I finally got my phone to connect again to my laptop, so I can post some pics. :)

1. Remove acorn nut and spray CRC, break-free, innox or similar fluid, diesel will also work well. Refit nut and lightly tighten.

2. Next 3-4 days - repeat step 1. Fluid needs to soak into taper. Parking in sunlight during the day in fine weather may help. In the meantime, the tractor can still be used if required.

3. Remove acorn nut and if possible fit normal nut and screw down until top of nut is flush with top of thread on steering shaft.

4. Split three 2-3" lengths of plastic hose and slip over spokes of steering wheel for protection, splits upwards.

5. Fit split-collar puller as shown on our 135 in Pic 1, and on friend's 35 in Pic 2. Note: Puller must be centered on shaft to prevent damage to thread. Nut previously fitted will assist. To achieve this, it may be necessary to add a spacer between one of the bolts in the collar and one spoke to cater for height difference. This is somewhat difficult to see in pics, but is above the tachometer in both pics. The thickness difference I referred to is clearly visible in Pic 1 - albeit by looking at the lower bolt and edges of the collar halves.

6. Spray one last time, apply reasonable pulling force and wait. Note coffee cup in pic. Increase force a little at a time.

7. Using your hands and knees, gently rock wheel side-to-side - lifting one side upward whilst pushing the other side downward. Don't be brutal because spokes will bend.

8. When steering wheel separates from tapered shaft you will think something broke! :eek: Then you'll see the rust that caused it.

Before refitting, remove key, wire-brush rust off both tapers and key, apply liberal coating of grease or never-seez to exclude water and tighten to a sensible tension. Remember, if wheel seems loose, it can be retightened much more easily than it was removed.

Pics 3 & 4 show why the 35's wheel had to come off. I thought I'd free up the two of mine while I was armed up for the occasion when I found out what it took to remove them, and both mine are in need of replacement. Incidentally, that Ferguson 35 Diesel turned out to be a "Copper-belly" repainted red & grey. Nobody knew until I found residual bronze-coloured paint on the steering column! My friend was quite thrilled to have bought something special. :laughing:

DSC01255.jpg DSC01249.jpg DSC01254.jpg DSC01295.jpg

Again ..... Good luck! :drink:
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel
  • Thread Starter
#4  
PatrickS2222 said:
I removed three steering wheels on tractors here (two of mine and one of a mate's) the same day - while I had the use of a heavy-calibre puller. The wheel mounts on a rather small tapered shaft with a key, and is unbelievably tight! There are no threads in hub for puller bolts. This is how I did it: Good Luck! :thumbsup:

I finally got my phone to connect again to my laptop, so I can post some pics. :)

1. Remove acorn nut and spray CRC, break-free, innox or similar fluid, diesel will also work well. Refit nut and lightly tighten.

2. Next 3-4 days - repeat step 1. Fluid needs to soak into taper. Parking in sunlight during the day in fine weather may help. In the meantime, the tractor can still be used if required.

3. Remove acorn nut and if possible fit normal nut and screw down until top of nut is flush with top of thread on steering shaft.

4. Split three 2-3" lengths of plastic hose and slip over spokes of steering wheel for protection, splits upwards.

5. Fit split-collar puller as shown on our 135 in Pic 1, and on friend's 35 in Pic 2. Note: Puller must be centered on shaft to prevent damage to thread. Nut previously fitted will assist. To achieve this, it may be necessary to add a spacer between one of the bolts in the collar and one spoke to cater for height difference. This is somewhat difficult to see in pics, but is above the tachometer in both pics. The thickness difference I referred to is clearly visible in Pic 1 - albeit by looking at the lower bolt and edges of the collar halves.

6. Spray one last time, apply reasonable pulling force and wait. Note coffee cup in pic. Increase force a little at a time.

7. Using your hands and knees, gently rock wheel side-to-side - lifting one side upward whilst pushing the other side downward. Don't be brutal because spokes will bend.

8. When steering wheel separates from tapered shaft you will think something broke! :eek: Then you'll see the rust that caused it.

Before refitting, remove key, wire-brush rust off both tapers and key, apply liberal coating of grease or never-seez to exclude water and tighten to a sensible tension. Remember, if wheel seems loose, it can be retightened much more easily than it was removed.

Pics 3 & 4 show why the 35's wheel had to come off. I thought I'd free up the two of mine while I was armed up for the occasion when I found out what it took to remove them, and both mine are in need of replacement. Incidentally, that Ferguson 35 Diesel turned out to be a "Copper-belly" repainted red & grey. Nobody knew until I found residual bronze-coloured paint on the steering column! My friend was quite thrilled to have bought something special. :laughing:

View attachment 484739 View attachment 484740 View attachment 484741 View attachment 484742

Again ..... Good luck! :drink:
Click to expand...


I was able to remove the steering wheel using a bearing splitter. Wish I had done it before I ordered a new steering wheel. I ordered a keyed wheel, mine has splines.


I still desperately need a wiring diagram of the gauges and electrical system.:confused:, :confused2:, :confused3:
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #5  
Searched and searched - nothing reliable - except a couple dodgy download sites that appear to contain viruses.

Can only suggest "AGCOPUBS" - It appears in the USA you can login as a guest and utilise their information. It doesn't seem to want to work here though. :confused: Give it a go and let us know how successful you are.
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #7  
Good on ya John, that should be a great deal of help for him. :thumbsup: Thanks very much for that. :) Where did you get it? I could not locate anything useful. :confused: Copy also saved for future reference. ;) Thanks again.
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #8  
I removed the steering wheel on my dad's old 3616 International Harvester backhoe utilizing a gear puller and air wrench. The air wrench was a 1/2" 450# rated unit. Most tractors use a splined shaft to hold the steering wheel on and after many years they will rust and take a considerable amount of force to remove. After soaking several days with BP Plaster and Kroil I used the gear puller. It still took quite a bit of force to get it to break loose. Sounded like a gun going off when she popped.
 
   / Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel #10  
Yes, thanks again John. I already had something similar - ie Publication 1856 002 M2 (Part 4 only - 100 pages) but it had nothing on electrical other than basic specifications - was no real help. Currently downloading - works well on Google Chrome :thumbsup:

Turby, I didn't dare use an impact gun because I was worried about breaking the ?bakelite? on the steering wheel (45 Yrs old). It is tapered with a key, and severaly rusted in place. You can see in a couple of pics the soft plastic hose sections against the puller plates. Even while tightening progressively by hand and frequently tapping with a hammer, it went off like something broke! :eek:
Packed every bit of free space with grease on refitment - got to think of next time! ;)
 
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