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  1. #1
    New Member
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    Mar 2013
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    8
    Location
    Lindale, TX
    Tractor
    MF 165

    Default Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    I am replacing the gauges and the wires on my 165 diesel. Needless to say there are not a lot of good wiring diagrams (that I can find). Also the wiring on the voltage regulator. Replacing the fuel sending unit also. The VR wiring diagrams I have seen dont look like the connections on mine. Also there is a wire going from the VR to what looks like a possible fuse holder or light socket but it has no other wires on it and is mounted on the bracket next to the battery. There is also a device mounted beside it with nothing connected to it. Needless to say what should be a fairly easy job has become pretty frustrating.

  2. #2
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    8
    Location
    Lindale, TX
    Tractor
    MF 165

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    One other problem. I need to replace the steering wheel. Had the same problem on my 135. Rust and I cannot figure out how to break it loose to remove the old steering wheel. The shape of the hub will no hold a puller unless I just don't know what type of puller to use. Surely it is not screwed on?

  3. #3
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    352
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Tractor
    MF35, MF135, MF40 with loader.

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by lmbr View Post
    One other problem. I need to replace the steering wheel. Had the same problem on my 135. Rust and I cannot figure out how to break it loose to remove the old steering wheel. The shape of the hub will no hold a puller unless I just don't know what type of puller to use. Surely it is not screwed on?
    I removed three steering wheels on tractors here (two of mine and one of a mate's) the same day - while I had the use of a heavy-calibre puller. The wheel mounts on a rather small tapered shaft with a key, and is unbelievably tight! There are no threads in hub for puller bolts. This is how I did it: Good Luck!

    I finally got my phone to connect again to my laptop, so I can post some pics.

    1. Remove acorn nut and spray CRC, break-free, innox or similar fluid, diesel will also work well. Refit nut and lightly tighten.

    2. Next 3-4 days - repeat step 1. Fluid needs to soak into taper. Parking in sunlight during the day in fine weather may help. In the meantime, the tractor can still be used if required.

    3. Remove acorn nut and if possible fit normal nut and screw down until top of nut is flush with top of thread on steering shaft.

    4. Split three 2-3" lengths of plastic hose and slip over spokes of steering wheel for protection, splits upwards.

    5. Fit split-collar puller as shown on our 135 in Pic 1, and on friend's 35 in Pic 2. Note: Puller must be centered on shaft to prevent damage to thread. Nut previously fitted will assist. To achieve this, it may be necessary to add a spacer between one of the bolts in the collar and one spoke to cater for height difference. This is somewhat difficult to see in pics, but is above the tachometer in both pics. The thickness difference I referred to is clearly visible in Pic 1 - albeit by looking at the lower bolt and edges of the collar halves.

    6. Spray one last time, apply reasonable pulling force and wait. Note coffee cup in pic. Increase force a little at a time.

    7. Using your hands and knees, gently rock wheel side-to-side - lifting one side upward whilst pushing the other side downward. Don't be brutal because spokes will bend.

    8. When steering wheel separates from tapered shaft you will think something broke! Then you'll see the rust that caused it.

    Before refitting, remove key, wire-brush rust off both tapers and key, apply liberal coating of grease or never-seez to exclude water and tighten to a sensible tension. Remember, if wheel seems loose, it can be retightened much more easily than it was removed.

    Pics 3 & 4 show why the 35's wheel had to come off. I thought I'd free up the two of mine while I was armed up for the occasion when I found out what it took to remove them, and both mine are in need of replacement. Incidentally, that Ferguson 35 Diesel turned out to be a "Copper-belly" repainted red & grey. Nobody knew until I found residual bronze-coloured paint on the steering column! My friend was quite thrilled to have bought something special.

    Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01255-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01249-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01254-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01295-jpg

    Again ..... Good luck!

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    8
    Location
    Lindale, TX
    Tractor
    MF 165

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by PatrickS2222 View Post
    I removed three steering wheels on tractors here (two of mine and one of a mate's) the same day - while I had the use of a heavy-calibre puller. The wheel mounts on a rather small tapered shaft with a key, and is unbelievably tight! There are no threads in hub for puller bolts. This is how I did it: Good Luck!

    I finally got my phone to connect again to my laptop, so I can post some pics.

    1. Remove acorn nut and spray CRC, break-free, innox or similar fluid, diesel will also work well. Refit nut and lightly tighten.

    2. Next 3-4 days - repeat step 1. Fluid needs to soak into taper. Parking in sunlight during the day in fine weather may help. In the meantime, the tractor can still be used if required.

    3. Remove acorn nut and if possible fit normal nut and screw down until top of nut is flush with top of thread on steering shaft.

    4. Split three 2-3" lengths of plastic hose and slip over spokes of steering wheel for protection, splits upwards.

    5. Fit split-collar puller as shown on our 135 in Pic 1, and on friend's 35 in Pic 2. Note: Puller must be centered on shaft to prevent damage to thread. Nut previously fitted will assist. To achieve this, it may be necessary to add a spacer between one of the bolts in the collar and one spoke to cater for height difference. This is somewhat difficult to see in pics, but is above the tachometer in both pics. The thickness difference I referred to is clearly visible in Pic 1 - albeit by looking at the lower bolt and edges of the collar halves.

    6. Spray one last time, apply reasonable pulling force and wait. Note coffee cup in pic. Increase force a little at a time.

    7. Using your hands and knees, gently rock wheel side-to-side - lifting one side upward whilst pushing the other side downward. Don't be brutal because spokes will bend.

    8. When steering wheel separates from tapered shaft you will think something broke! Then you'll see the rust that caused it.

    Before refitting, remove key, wire-brush rust off both tapers and key, apply liberal coating of grease or never-seez to exclude water and tighten to a sensible tension. Remember, if wheel seems loose, it can be retightened much more easily than it was removed.

    Pics 3 & 4 show why the 35's wheel had to come off. I thought I'd free up the two of mine while I was armed up for the occasion when I found out what it took to remove them, and both mine are in need of replacement. Incidentally, that Ferguson 35 Diesel turned out to be a "Copper-belly" repainted red & grey. Nobody knew until I found residual bronze-coloured paint on the steering column! My friend was quite thrilled to have bought something special.

    Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01255-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01249-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01254-jpg Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel-dsc01295-jpg

    Again ..... Good luck!

    I was able to remove the steering wheel using a bearing splitter. Wish I had done it before I ordered a new steering wheel. I ordered a keyed wheel, mine has splines.


    I still desperately need a wiring diagram of the gauges and electrical system., ,

  5. #5
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    352
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Tractor
    MF35, MF135, MF40 with loader.

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Searched and searched - nothing reliable - except a couple dodgy download sites that appear to contain viruses.

    Can only suggest "AGCOPUBS" - It appears in the USA you can login as a guest and utilise their information. It doesn't seem to want to work here though. Give it a go and let us know how successful you are.

  6. #6
    Member johmarq's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    36
    Location
    Yarra,NSW,Australia
    Tractor
    1951 Ferguson Tea20 & 1968 Massey Ferguson MF135

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Here you go, Wiring diagram from the MF135 Service Manual, Should be the same as the 165

    I hope they load, please let me know if they don't

    HooRoo from Oz. John



    MF_135_and_148_Wiring Diag-1.pdf

    MF_135_and_148_Wiring Diag-2.pdf

  7. #7
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    352
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Tractor
    MF35, MF135, MF40 with loader.

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Good on ya John, that should be a great deal of help for him. Thanks very much for that. Where did you get it? I could not locate anything useful. Copy also saved for future reference. Thanks again.

  8. #8
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    2,506
    Location
    Balls Creek, NC
    Tractor
    New Holland Workmaster 50, Ford 4610 SU

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    I removed the steering wheel on my dad's old 3616 International Harvester backhoe utilizing a gear puller and air wrench. The air wrench was a 1/2" 450# rated unit. Most tractors use a splined shaft to hold the steering wheel on and after many years they will rust and take a considerable amount of force to remove. After soaking several days with BP Plaster and Kroil I used the gear puller. It still took quite a bit of force to get it to break loose. Sounded like a gun going off when she popped.

  9. #9
    Member johmarq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    36
    Location
    Yarra,NSW,Australia
    Tractor
    1951 Ferguson Tea20 & 1968 Massey Ferguson MF135

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Hi Patrick,

    Free download of the MF135 Service Manual

    Click on it should load

    MF_135_and_148_service_manual.pdf - Google Drive

    HooRoo, John

  10. #10
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    352
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Tractor
    MF35, MF135, MF40 with loader.

    Default Re: Replacing gauges on my 165 Diesel

    Yes, thanks again John. I already had something similar - ie Publication 1856 002 M2 (Part 4 only - 100 pages) but it had nothing on electrical other than basic specifications - was no real help. Currently downloading - works well on Google Chrome

    Turby, I didn't dare use an impact gun because I was worried about breaking the ?bakelite? on the steering wheel (45 Yrs old). It is tapered with a key, and severaly rusted in place. You can see in a couple of pics the soft plastic hose sections against the puller plates. Even while tightening progressively by hand and frequently tapping with a hammer, it went off like something broke!
    Packed every bit of free space with grease on refitment - got to think of next time!

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