About to pull the head on a1956 Tef feguson

[Mick Oz]

I have been waiting for my new to me seized engine in a Fergy Tef to release the easy way for nearly a month now, so i am preparing to pull the head off the diesel engine.
Reading the manual it states that I will need a Service tool referred to as ftb 30 to get at head bolts below the rocker and decompression shafts.
Can any one shed some light on finding one or the specifics of the tool so I can make one.
Also please feel free to offer warnings and experience of your diesel experience.

 

[davedj1]

I know nothing about diesels or the tool you are talking about but maybe this will help?
distributor wrench - Google Search

 

[Agvg]

Don't think you need it if you are going to remove those shafts.

 

[Mick Oz]

Thanks Davedj1 that looks promising as long as I get the one I can use atorque wrench on.
The tool seems to be essential for correctly torqueing the head bolts after assembly. Cause im not stripping it down if I know I cant rebuild it

 

[mrmikey]

Can't you just pull the rocker shaft? Seems crazy to have to buy a special tool unless I'm missing something...............Mike

 

[Mick Oz]

Need it for the rebuild, not pulling it down. Thanks

 

[Mick Oz]

Again, with more reading, it appears that even on reassembly and retorque after first run I can pull the rocker and decompression shafts to access these nuts.

 

[WilliamTO-35]

I do understand the issue of easily retorquing the head bolts without removing the rocker shafts. Some of those distributor wrenches look promising.
On my gasoline engined TO-35 , the center row of head bolts cannot be tightened with a socket and torque wrench with the rocker shaft in place.
I bought a double ended box wrench , and pulled on it with a small electronic scale to arrive at the correct torque. The length of the wrench does, of course, have to be considered when deciding on how many pounds to pull on the scale. Any wrench with a box hex on one end can also be used, but the double ended box makes keeping the scale hook in place easier. Any retorquing does have to be followed by resetting the valve lashes. And, if the valves have been replaced, or the seats redone, reset the valve lash a couple of times during the first few hours of operation, since if the valves seat themselves deeper in the seats, the valve lash will tighten up and may prevent the valves from closing completely. That leads to burned valves . I set my initial valve lash about .002 inches too loose, and after an hour of running the lash had tightened up to specs.

 

[Mick Oz]

Now that sounds like more experience than luck. I will certainly keep that in mind, as long as it goes to plan a tear down and rebuild.

 

[redman135]

Hello Mick Oz, I pulled down a perkins 3 cylinder from a 135. Think oversized meccano set. I found the engine simple to work on.
First things first. If you haven't got a work shop manual GET ONE.
Make sure you have plenty of containers for bolts, nuts washers etc and put every thing from each stage in one container,ie rockers and all associated nuts and bolts in one container, all head studs in another, timing cover studs and bolts in yet another container. I found a roll of sticky labels and a pen very handy too.
If you are pulling the block out then be aware that the sump is a load bearing item and is HEAVY.
Next, to put the engine/ transmission back togather, with the 6 or 8 speed gearboxes engage the pto and use a spanner on the pto shaft to rotate the gearbox input shaft so it lines up with the clutch more easily. If you have a multipower gearbox this trick won't work.
good luck
Ps photo's please we all want to see what went wrong.
Did the engine seize running, or was it shutdown before seizing solid? When mine seized I heard the engine sound change and shut down early enough to prevent major damage. A main end bearing had just started to run.