Massey 35 deluxe new owner-some help needed

[gumbellion]

I bought a massey 35 deluxe diesel yesterday as an upgrade from my old trusty ford 8n.
I dont know really anything about these tractors other than it had 2 things i really wanted over the ford. Dual stage clutch and a diff lock
What are things that i should check over or common problems i should be aware of, how often should i change things like fuel filters etc?

I have never owned anything diesel before but the tractor seems to start really easily, does not smoke, idles well and appears to be taken care of.
I plan to change the oil right away just so i can start a service schedule
IT has a new tach/hour meter but apparently the drive from inside the motor is broken so that it does not work. Any suggestions on how to fix thatﾉ

Does anyone have a source for operators and service manuals for a 35x/Deluxe?


I will put photos soon, it doesnt need anything right away but i want to change the oil for sure, and need to know how the multi-power is supposed to be shifted.

Thank

 

[gumbellion]

 

[Ewgoetz]

Your tach/hour meter isn’t working cause the original generator was replaced with a gm 1 wire alternator. I’ve seen kits and alternators with the attachment to make the hour meter work. But they can be pricey.

For the manuals eBay.
Actually for most things eBay would be your best bet.
Use
AGCO Parts Books
To get your part numbers than search eBay for those numbers.

 

[gary49]

I don't know about Massey Ferguson's tach drive for certain, but I pretty certain the 35 has a Perkins 3-153 like my Fordson does, and the proof meter is driven by a cable much like speedometers used to be. The cable housing comes off the back of the injection pump, IIRC.

 

[Ewgoetz]

I don't know about Massey Ferguson's tach drive for certain, but I pretty certain the 35 has a Perkins 3-153 like my Fordson does, and the proof meter is driven by a cable much like speedometers used to be. The cable housing comes off the back of the injection pump, IIRC.

The massy cable runs off the generator not fuel injection pump. If original.

 

[shaeff]

The massy cable runs off the generator not fuel injection pump. If original.

On the Continental motor, yes, but on the diesel (looks like he has a Perkins .152) it's driven off the camshaft I believe.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks for sharing. Never saw a 35 diesel in all of my years.

 

[Uruguayo]

Hello, I congratulate you for the purchase, if the tractor is moderately good you will enjoy it a lot, the tachometer cable is driven by a gear on the camshaft in my mf 135 3.152 perkins engine, so yours should be the same.

 

[flusher]

On the Continental motor, yes, but on the diesel (looks like he has a Perkins .152) it's driven off the camshaft I believe.

Yep. That's the way it is on my 1964 MF135 diesel. The tach is cable-driven.

 

[redman135]

Flusher is right. I had the same tractor. Changing the tach cable is easy. Just get a pair of pliers that open wide enough to grip the screw on collar , expect stiffness, it has not shifted since it left the factory 60 years ago.
MULTIPOWER: ALWAYS use HIGH multipower going downhill NO EXCEPTIONS! the reason is, in low multipower you will free-wheel going downhill like you are in neutral. The term is "gearbox full of neutral"
High multipower gives you engine breaking like in a standard manual gearbox.
With experience you will automaticly shift into high multipower as you start going down hill. WHEN, you forget and start to decend a hill in low multipower and the tractor starts to run away (the feel is distinctive) just flick the multipower into high and keep the power on. DON'T touch the brakes, you may loose control especially if the ground is damp and/or on a slope.
You can shift the multipower up or down without the clutch. I reccomend you get an MF mechanic to make sure it is adjusted correctly.
Lastly don't use the multipower to stop the tractor, it wrecks the multipower. It is intended to hold the tractor on hill starts without running backwards.
Your air cleaner is the "oil bath"type. I suggest you change that oil at the same time. Don't try to pull the steel mesh out of the filter to clean it, you won't get it all back in.
The rubber boots on the gearsticks have been replaced so that is 1 place the water can't get in. Check the draft boot where the top link attatches to the tractor. Replace if perished, or water can get in.
I see the starter motor and altenator have been replaced.
The grease zerk on the front axle pivot can be hard to get at with some styles of grease gun, You can get the grease zerk mounted in a more conveniant place as per on the MF240 model.
just some food for thought.