Massey 135--Hydraulic fluid refill ?

[muddwhumper]

Sorry for a silly question but I am just getting my 135 running after it has been down for over a year. Where do you refill the hydraulic fluid at. I have the repair manual but it doesn't give any info (that I could find) on where the refill point is for the hydraulic system. I found the dipstick but that is all--surely it doesnt refill there.

 

[joecdeere]

nice big plug by the shifter, tranny and rearend share the same oil supply

 

[flusher]

Sorry for a silly question but I am just getting my 135 running after it has been down for over a year. Where do you refill the hydraulic fluid at. I have the repair manual but it doesn't give any info (that I could find) on where the refill point is for the hydraulic system. I found the dipstick but that is all--surely it doesnt refill there.

I just got a MF-135 (1964-67 vintage, S/N tag missing). Where's the dipstick for the hydro system? Is it one of those screw type dip sticks?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I just got a MF-135 (1964-67 vintage, S/N tag missing). Where's the dipstick for the hydro system? Is it one of those screw type dip sticks?

As you sit on the tractor, the dipstick SHOULD be right behind your right foot, on the side of the tranny housing/rear end housing. It SHOULD be in the same round bolt-on part where the hydraulic flow control is located. No, it ISN'T a screw-in dipstick.

 

[flusher]

As you sit on the tractor, the dipstick SHOULD be right behind your right foot, on the side of the tranny housing/rear end housing. It SHOULD be in the same round bolt-on part where the hydraulic flow control is located. No, it ISN'T a screw-in dipstick.

Thanks. I found it this AM.

BTW: any recommendations on hydraulic fluid for the 135?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Thanks. I found it this AM.

BTW: any recommendations on hydraulic fluid for the 135?

I've always used NAPA Universal tractor hydraulic oil. Believe it takes around 8 gal. for a complete change. Be sure to remove BOTH drain plugs when changing. One under tranny, another under rear end housing. Only removing one or the other leaves about 1-3/4 gallon in the sump.

In the event you don't already have them, EBAY is a great place to find the owners manual, service/shop manual, and parts manual for that tractor. All 3 are worth their weight in gold. (Parts manual has exploded views of every component group. It's at least as important as the other 2)

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks. I found it this AM.

BTW: any recommendations on hydraulic fluid for the 135?

UTF

TSC, walmart, etc..

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

In the event you don't already have them, EBAY is a great place to find the owners manual, service/shop manual, and parts manual for that tractor. All 3 are worth their weight in gold. (Parts manual has exploded views of every component group. It's at least as important as the other 2)

One of the reasons I suggested finding the 3 manuals had to do with hydraulic filters and screens. During the production run of the 100 series, there were several changes and updates. In the manuals, there will be listings of serial number breaks where those changes are made. Since you don't have a serial number plate, you would be limited to identifying YOUR tractors filter/screen combination by a visual check. (Filter is accessed through that "round plate" where the dipstick and flow control are located. Takes a contortionist to REACH it, but it's there)

I've cleaned out the hydraulic sump on a few older Fergies and MF's. I always flush them out with diesel fuel before re-filling if they appear overly dirty. Drain everything that will drain. Lower the 3-point. (With position control AND draft control levers in down position. That shuts down the hyd. pump) Pour in a few gallons (about 3 usually does it. (More is better, but with the RIDICULOUS price of diesel nowdays....) Start the tractor, then drive it SLOWLY around for just a few minutes. Diesel is a lubricant. It won't hurt anything, so long as you don't work the tractor, or run it long. (No plowing the back 40 with diesel in the sump!) Then drain the diesel from the hyd. sump. Let it drip dry for a few hours. You will be amased at the volume of crud that washes out. THEN change filters and re-fill with clean, new oil.

 

[flusher]

One of the reasons I suggested finding the 3 manuals had to do with hydraulic filters and screens. During the production run of the 100 series, there were several changes and updates. In the manuals, there will be listings of serial number breaks where those changes are made. Since you don't have a serial number plate, you would be limited to identifying YOUR tractors filter/screen combination by a visual check. (Filter is accessed through that "round plate" where the dipstick and flow control are located. Takes a contortionist to REACH it, but it's there)

I've cleaned out the hydraulic sump on a few older Fergies and MF's. I always flush them out with diesel fuel before re-filling if they appear overly dirty. Drain everything that will drain. Lower the 3-point. (With position control AND draft control levers in down position. That shuts down the hyd. pump) Pour in a few gallons (about 3 usually does it. (More is better, but with the RIDICULOUS price of diesel nowdays....) Start the tractor, then drive it SLOWLY around for just a few minutes. Diesel is a lubricant. It won't hurt anything, so long as you don't work the tractor, or run it long. (No plowing the back 40 with diesel in the sump!) Then drain the diesel from the hyd. sump. Let it drip dry for a few hours. You will be amased at the volume of crud that washes out. THEN change filters and re-fill with clean, new oil.

Asked the previous owner today about the fluids he used in the MF-135 I now own. He said the engine oil is 30W and that the transmission/hydraulic system is filled with 90W. Said that's what he and his Dad have been using in the tractor for over 20 years. It apparently works OK since the 3pt goes up and down and there're no leaks except for possible seapage around the PTO shaft seal.

Wondering if I should replace the 90W with something like Rotella or Mystic JT-5 tractor fluid.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Asked the previous owner today about the fluids he used in the MF-135 I now own. He said the engine oil is 30W and that the transmission/hydraulic system is filled with 90W. Said that's what he and his Dad have been using in the tractor for over 20 years. It apparently works OK since the 3pt goes up and down and there're no leaks except for possible seapage around the PTO shaft seal.

Wondering if I should replace the 90W with something like Rotella or Mystic JT-5 tractor fluid.

Once upon a time 30W "straight weight" oil was commonly used in some diesels. Not any more. I'd use 15/40 "C" rated (diesel service) oil like Rotella. I like Pennzoil 15/40 diesel rated myself. The diesel rated oil holds up better and deals with soot from diesel fuel much better. Newer multi-weight oils are far superior for cold weather AND hot weather use.

I'd highly suggest going to a good hy-tran oil like Massey suggests. Some older Masseys (and Fergusons) used a heavy weight oil, but it was mineral oil and NOT 85/90 wt gear oil. You'll find the correct oil labeled as "UTF" or Universal tractor hydraulic oil. I like NAPA brand, but it's available most anywhere. That 90WT aught to make for some mighty balky shifting in cold weather.