New member- old tractor

[maxwell1]

Mattgo:

First let me say when I was talking about MF multi power transmissions. I did not mean to get Farmwithjunk so tore up, his knowledge is a 100% more than mine.

I only told you things that I have experienced: nothing more.

The local MF dealer did tell me that old MF with Multi power are subject to break down. Now he had a MF165 (late model) 4 speed Hi/Lo with sq axles on his lot at the time I was looking and maybe he wanted to sell it so he gave me all the negtives of multi power.

I live in western Ky and this area is full of little Fergusons as we grow tobacco in this area and the little tractors were great for that.

I had two neighbors that had Fergusons with multi power, the multi power fuction was broken on both tractors. The tractors would only pull in low range multi power and had no motor braking, both farmers said the tractors gave them a thrill as both old tractors had bad brakes, they would not let kids drive them.

Farmwithjunk explained that lo range multi power has no breaking.

What was wrong with these tractors, I do not know, but both were traded off.

Again, I like Fergusons we have owned a TO-35 for 50 years, I would love to have a Ferguson with a proper working multipower system, but must stand by my experiences.

I just wanted you to know about the possibility of a lack of tractor motor braking with a non fuctioning mulitpower system.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Mattgo:

First let me say when I was talking about MF multi power transmissions. I did not mean to get Farmwithjunk so tore up, his knowledge is a 100% more than mine.

I only told you things that I have experienced: nothing more.

The local MF dealer did tell me that old MF with Multi power are subject to break down. Now he had a MF165 (late model) 4 speed Hi/Lo with sq axles on his lot at the time I was looking and maybe he wanted to sell it so he gave me all the negtives of multi power.

I live in western Ky and this area is full of little Fergusons as we grow tobacco in this area and the little tractors were great for that.

I had two neighbors that had Fergusons with multi power, the multi power fuction was broken on both tractors. The tractors would only pull in low range multi power and had no motor braking, both farmers said the tractors gave them a thrill as both old tractors had bad brakes, they would not let kids drive them.

Farmwithjunk explained that lo range multi power has no breaking.

What was wrong with these tractors, I do not know, but both were traded off.

Again, I like Fergusons we have owned a TO-35 for 50 years, I would love to have a Ferguson with a proper working multipower system, but must stand by my experiences.

I just wanted you to know about the possibility of a lack of tractor motor braking with a non fuctioning mulitpower system.

You didn't get me "tore up". You posted extremely erronious "information" based on a definate lack of knowledge of the subject. You most definately said the MultiPower was a fluid drive system and it is most definately NOT. We try to keep information accurate on this site, and NOT a bunch of malarkey.

 

[mattgo]

About the multi-power, I can understand someone's concern about the lack of engine braking. That's something I would want to know, and if I knew about it, I would want to tell someone else so they knew. The multi-power on this tractor does not work, and I would like to fix it. I wish I knew more about it. How do I check the linkage?

Well today I went back over to Pepaw's and we checked it out some. We took off all the front sheet metal, and went to scraping all the built up gunk that was all over the place. Found 2 wasp's nests and a bird nest. Scraped and scraped and beneath most areas, the silver paint is in pretty decent shape. Some high-heat areas and areas low to the ground are flaking, but the injection area and the air intake look like new! The data plate that says "perkins" on the left side of the tractor as seen from the front looks really good.

Yesterday when we looked at it, the guy said, "We had the diesel injection pump rebuilt 5 years ago, and since then you can't run the throttle all the way up to an idle." You could push the hand throttle lever up to the top of its travel, and the tractor would quit. Well after a good scraping and some gasoline brushed on all the gunk, then a quick rinse with a garden hose, you can run the throttle up to the top and it will just putt-putt-putt-putt-putt right along. The oil pressure gauge even started working! I think about 2 gallons of simple green and a power washer might really bring this thing around!!

So now we're going to get a few replacement parts, and I don't know who has the most complete selection of parts. I've really searched a lot of online parts houses, and before I pay shipping I want to make sure that I only have to get UPS to run once. Here's my list of what I'm looking for, and you guys look and tell me who should have most of these parts-

-Fuel pump gasket
-Spin-on oil filter conversion
-grommet where multi-power linkage goes into tranny
-grommet for the neutral indicator wires where they come out of the tranny
-fuel filter
-air filter
-rear fender light brackets, left and right
-lower grille mesh insert
-upper grill emblem
-replacement rear work light (I want two) and two-faced flashers
-new suspension seat
-lever for the hood

None of those should be too hard to find, but I haven't found a single website that has these grommets for the top of the tranny, and I need some because they are trashed. And about the rear- did the 135 ever come with a bracket for flashers on BOTH sides?

Farmwithjunk, tell me about paint. I think we've decided to not remove the tires, since we don't have another tractor with a FEL to raise the chassis and engine. We'll just mask them off good and keep the whole thing on the ground. What do guys normally remove to paint the drivetrain? What do they not bother with, and just paint over? Do I need to get a sand blaster, or will a wire brush work? I don't worry about the sheet metal much, but to me what really makes an old tractor restoration stand out is the chassis and drivetrain. If those areas are painted well, then everything else looks good, especially on a Massey. What colors, and hardener or no hardener? What do you thin the paint with for use in a HVLP gun? Any special areas to mask off and not get paint near?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

About the multi-power, I can understand someone's concern about the lack of engine braking. That's something I would want to know, and if I knew about it, I would want to tell someone else so they knew. The multi-power on this tractor does not work, and I would like to fix it. I wish I knew more about it. How do I check the linkage?

Well today I went back over to Pepaw's and we checked it out some. We took off all the front sheet metal, and went to scraping all the built up gunk that was all over the place. Found 2 wasp's nests and a bird nest. Scraped and scraped and beneath most areas, the silver paint is in pretty decent shape. Some high-heat areas and areas low to the ground are flaking, but the injection area and the air intake look like new! The data plate that says "perkins" on the left side of the tractor as seen from the front looks really good.

Yesterday when we looked at it, the guy said, "We had the diesel injection pump rebuilt 5 years ago, and since then you can't run the throttle all the way up to an idle." You could push the hand throttle lever up to the top of its travel, and the tractor would quit. Well after a good scraping and some gasoline brushed on all the gunk, then a quick rinse with a garden hose, you can run the throttle up to the top and it will just putt-putt-putt-putt-putt right along. The oil pressure gauge even started working! I think about 2 gallons of simple green and a power washer might really bring this thing around!!

So now we're going to get a few replacement parts, and I don't know who has the most complete selection of parts. I've really searched a lot of online parts houses, and before I pay shipping I want to make sure that I only have to get UPS to run once. Here's my list of what I'm looking for, and you guys look and tell me who should have most of these parts-

-Fuel pump gasket
-Spin-on oil filter conversion
-grommet where multi-power linkage goes into tranny
-grommet for the neutral indicator wires where they come out of the tranny
-fuel filter
-air filter
-rear fender light brackets, left and right
-lower grille mesh insert
-upper grill emblem
-replacement rear work light (I want two) and two-faced flashers
-new suspension seat
-lever for the hood

None of those should be too hard to find, but I haven't found a single website that has these grommets for the top of the tranny, and I need some because they are trashed. And about the rear- did the 135 ever come with a bracket for flashers on BOTH sides?

Farmwithjunk, tell me about paint. I think we've decided to not remove the tires, since we don't have another tractor with a FEL to raise the chassis and engine. We'll just mask them off good and keep the whole thing on the ground. What do guys normally remove to paint the drivetrain? What do they not bother with, and just paint over? Do I need to get a sand blaster, or will a wire brush work? I don't worry about the sheet metal much, but to me what really makes an old tractor restoration stand out is the chassis and drivetrain. If those areas are painted well, then everything else looks good, especially on a Massey. What colors, and hardener or no hardener? What do you thin the paint with for use in a HVLP gun? Any special areas to mask off and not get paint near?

I don't like the idea of sandblasting an assembled tractor. Seals won't take it. I simply wire wheel, wire brush, use a scraper, some coarse sandpaper, and a lot of degreaser/carb cleaner/contact cleaner. Any paint that wants to stay is good primer in my eyes. I don't try to take it to bare metal unless the paint is loose.

I try to keep paint off of wiring as much as is reasonably possible. Same for data plates, gauges, and radiator. I remove seat, fenders, hood/grill, battery, alternator/belt, and tire/wheel assembly. In MOST cases, I don't dismount tires from wheels when painting the rims.

I use OEM MF paint. Good quality enamel. I DISLIKE TSC's alkyd enamel. Pianting a tractor isn't exactly the toughest job in the world, but why not do a job that'll last a few more years. A few bucks saved isn't worth another paint job in 3 or 4 years. I use SOME hardener in the chassis paint, and SOME hardener in the sheet metal paint. Too much makes the paint brittle. Tractors get a fair amount of abuse. You don't want an extremely glossy paint that chips at a touch.

Paint colors are: Chassis, Flint Grey Metallic. Grill & rims, Silver Mist. Sheet metal, Rouge Red.

I use DuPont automotive paint enamel reducer. It's available in different formulations to deal with ambient air temps. Find an auto paint retailer and ask LOTS of questions. They're the experts. I'm still a novice class painter.

I don't recall ever seeing a 135 with clamshell fenders with dual flashers. A parts manual would tell that tale.

The absolute BEST source for parts is AGCO/MF and their "Heritage" parts line. They'll have just about every part conceivable for that tractor.

Also, even though they don't have a website, the #1 source of used parts and aftermarket parts will be Nolt's Equipment in Newville PA. 717 776 6242

 

[DMF]

Mattgo - I am really looking forward to following this thread and seeing you bring that old girl around!

Farmwithjunk - You have the nicest looking old Massey equipment I've ever seen; keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us newbies.

 

[mattgo]

Well the work started about 3 weeks ago after I brought this old soldier to its new resting place.

I bought the parts we needed and Pepaw has been foolin around every day with it. He even bent some copper tubing to make conduit for the rear work lights and flashers. The new flashers and rear work lights (formerly front headlights) have been installed. We put the new seat on today, although the jury is still out on that, since the "universal" replacement seems to sit WAY forward of where the old pan seat used to be. The biggest dents have been hammered out, and the chassis and drivetrain have been wirebrushed and painted.

My pepaw is 77, and this has been a really fun time for him. He loves to work on stuff, and bought a '73 Caddy fleetwood to restore about 2 months ago while he was waiting for me to buy a tractor. We've got a 50's model Allis Chalmers B that is sitting in a field where my dad last ran it when I was just a little feller 25 years ago. I told Pepaw about it, and he thought it might be fun. But when we went to look at it, we found it would need 4 new tires and 4 new wheels. It didn't have a 3 point hitch, and the motor was questionable at best.

So anyway, here's the pictures of where Pepaw has brought us. There's still some work to be done, but not too much. Look at the dipsticks and oil filler cap- he even painted them yellow!!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

WOW! Is that the same tractor?!?!? Looking good. I'll bet that the interaction between the 2 of you is far more valuable than all the tractors in the world.

 

[WarrenF]

My goodness....GREAT JOB. I am jealous!! Would you please send Pepaw out here to my place? I have a 165 I would like him to go to work on.

THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL TRACTOR.

 

[flusher]

Mattgo:

If it runs OK, buy it. I paid $3600 for my 1974 MF-135 diesel and it looked a lot worse than yours when I got it.

I cleaned it up, rewired it, serviced it and put it to work

Need to get the sheet metal reinstalled one of these days.

BTW: my 135 is an orchard tractor that sits low to clear the tree branches. I rotated the exhaust system to vertical for field use.

 

[DMF]

Awesome job Mattgo! That looks great!