2310 - 50 hr Service - Torn boot?

[jaybrad]

When I was changing the front axle oil as part of the the 50 hr service on my 2310, I noticed that there is a torn rubber boot that looks like it is protecting a grease fitting?

I don't have the parts or service manual (yet), so I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what this is, and if it's going to be a big deal to fix it?

I'm not even sure how this got torn - but am somewhat nervous about what I'm in for trying to DIY this repair.

If someone has a parts manual - could you please give me that part number so that I can try to get an idea what fun (and cost) awaits me?

I was also a little surprised that after draining both sides, it took less than a gallon to fill it back up to the mid point of the axle (book says it should take 4.2 quarts).

Tomorrow I'm doing the rear oil change, screen cleaning, etc. Wonder what fun little surprises I'll find there?

Thanks very much.

Jay

[ray66v]

It is called a dust cover 4265169M1, $16.73
Mark the tie rod carefully, or count the number of visible threads. remove the tie rod nut and pop the tie rod out with a tie rod fork, and unscrew it. remove the old cover and install in the reverse order.

[Rob2310]

I've had to change these several times on my 2310 and it's not hard. I used to buy four at a time, along with the small "springs" that goes on the small end. You simply need to remove the tie rod end, un-thread the tie rod, remove the old boot and put the new one on. Be certain to count the number of threads on the tie rod end so you can get the alignment back. I then used a needle fitting on my grease gun, slide it under the boot before putting on the small spring and filled it half way with grease.
This is the only item that Massey did not fix on the 2610 that I wrote them about. The last time I bought boots, theyh cost 12.00 a piece. I haven't torn one in sometime, because I know back up in to multi-flora rose to mow them.

[tx2310]

That is the dust boot for the inner tie rod. Remove the retainer from around the boot. If you loosen the jam nut on the outer tie rod you can rotate the rod out of the outer rod end. That will allow the boot to be removed. After you replace the boot align the front end per the operator manual under front wheel alignment. Tighten the jam nut and reattach the retainer for the boot . When you do the rear oil change. Be careful the finger screen is easy to mess up the threads since it is aluminum. I would apply anti seize to the threads since it is aluminum to keep them from galling. My dealer keeps them in stock because they can strip when removed the first time.

Doug

[jaybrad]

Originally Posted by ray66v

It is called a dust cover 4265169M1, $16.73
Mark the tie rod carefully, or count the number of visible threads. remove the tie rod nut and pop the tie rod out with a tie rod fork, and unscrew it. remove the old cover and install in the reverse order.

Thanks for the quick response and for the part number. Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "tie rod fork"?

Is this one of those "must have" items, or one of those things that makes the job a bit easier? Sounds like this may be another one of those opportunities to buy a tool that I'll only use once and a while....

Jay

[jaybrad]

Originally Posted by tx2310

That is the dust boot for the inner tie rod. Remove the retainer from around the boot. If you loosen the jam nut on the outer tie rod you can rotate the rod out of the outer rod end. That will allow the boot to be removed. After you replace the boot align the front end per the operator manual under front wheel alignment. Tighten the jam nut and reattach the retainer for the boot . When you do the rear oil change. Be careful the finger screen is easy to mess up the threads since it is aluminum. I would apply anti seize to the threads since it is aluminum to keep them from galling. My dealer keeps them in stock because they can strip when removed the first time.

Doug

Thanks, Doug and Rob

Since the dealer is about 35 miles from here, I think I'll just pick up a spare finger screen, unless it's an expensive little jobbie. Odd are sooner or later, I'll need one.

Can't say I'm surprised that I tore this dust boot given where I have been working....

I really appreciate all the great help and advise.

Jay

[tx2310]

I don't think you need to remove the outer tie rod from the spindle to remove the boot. The manual doesn't call for the outer tie rod to be removed to do the alignment. No need for a tie rod fork. I may be wrong I haven't done one yet.

Doug

[ray66v]

A fork is what is commonly used to remove the tie rod. It has a split between two tines. you drive it between the tie rod and the spindle where it is mounted. They separate quickly this way but, there is a chance of damaging the dust cover on the ball joint, sou se grease on the fork to reduce friction on the dust cover.

You many not need one, you can try backing out the nut until it is at the very end of the threads and try hitting up in the nut and tie rod, it may pop out.

If Rob says you can turn the other end and unscrew it, with out removing the tie rod, then that is the way I would do it.

4 years and I have never needed a to replace a boot? I must be doing something wrong?

[plowking]

I thnk there is a procedure to fill the front axle,when the technician was at my house for a service call, he raised the front axle with loader and tipped the axle,so fill was at the high side,he rechecked the level.I think he was trying to be sure there was no air bubbles so he wouldn't get inaccurate reading ........Another thing you want to do,is keep dirt and debris out of the seals at the king pins or they can get damaged and leak. I use to flush mine out when I washed the machine. Recessed area will allow crap to buildup and wear when front wheels turn left and right. plowking

[thing181]

Just an FYI, I have repaired my tie rod boots a couple times by cleaning the boot very good with brake cleaner and then using super glue to glue it back together. It works better than you would think and it only cost a couple bucks...... Eventually I will have to replace with new, but as long as you catch it early and keep the joint greased it should work just as well.