Relay for the starter solenoid - MF1010

[lambs]

Hey guys, my MF1010 has intermittent starting issues. Have checked all connections, replaced solenoid, battery, and ignition switch over the last several months. With a voltmeter, I see a drop of 2 volts in the ignition switch itself. 12.7 in, 10.8 volts out, no matter which terminal I check (glow plugs, solenoid, etc.). I intend to check my old ignition switch as well to see if it performs the same way, but I think ultimately I may just add a relay in between the clutch safety switch and the solenoid to switch the solenoid on directly from the battery post, just as you would jump it with a screwdriver to start the tractor.

I think this might work, but wondering if any of you have ever done this, or if anyone has found a better ignition switch for the 1010. I've read the jinmas use Ford switches routinely to clean up starting issues.....thanks.

 

[MrSteve]

It is somewhat normal to have a drop in volts on any switch, that much that you say you have I don't think would be a problem to activate your solenoid (other loads on tractor before the alternator takes over). Now if you which to make a "jumper switch" there is no need to add a relay. The reason being is that you are not pushing a lot of amps to activate your starter solenoid, you just add your activation wire to the trigger wire of the starter solenoid... It would be something like this...

*Push Button or monitory toggle switch

*14g wire

*"Ignition on" 12v to your new switch with in line fuse (this way you are sure to have power to the tractor, because you still would have to turn the key to "on" to start).

*on/off wire from your new switch ran to the activation stud of the starter solenoid.

Again the amp draw to the activation stud of the starter solenoid is very small, it is the main battery cable to starter that has the major draw. In short (um yea to late) your starter solenoid, is the relay you were thinking of installing.

 

[Gator6x4]

Hey guys, my MF1010 has intermittent starting issues. Have checked all connections, replaced solenoid, battery, and ignition switch over the last several months. With a voltmeter, I see a drop of 2 volts in the ignition switch itself. 12.7 in, 10.8 volts out, no matter which terminal I check (glow plugs, solenoid, etc.). I intend to check my old ignition switch as well to see if it performs the same way, but I think ultimately I may just add a relay in between the clutch safety switch and the solenoid to switch the solenoid on directly from the battery post, just as you would jump it with a screwdriver to start the tractor.

I think this might work, but wondering if any of you have ever done this, or if anyone has found a better ignition switch for the 1010. I've read the jinmas use Ford switches routinely to clean up starting issues.....thanks.

The "Click" or no start problem occurs on a lot of the new units. A lot of the Cub owners have installed a relay to overcome this. The two links below contains good information on how to install the relay. Look in the second link for "MajMac392" he includes a schematic. Look for "Gator6x4" a descriptive narrative is provided along with what too look for in a relay.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/cub-cadet/107809-starting-problem.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/cub-cadet/111040-7xxx-series-starter-problem-again.html

 

[lambs]

Thanks to both Mr. Steve and Gator for the responses. I am going to check this out a bit during the holidays. Much appreciate the advice.

 

[lambs]

Gator, thanks so much for the two links. Installed a Radio Shack relay today, and my 1010 cranks very well now. The instructions were perfect. And I didn't need to take the clutch safety switch out of the circuit, which was one of my concerns.