New GC2600 questions

[shadogang]

New guy here, this is my first tractor so I will be asking questions as I go.
First thing, lots of great info here. have been reading thru lots of threads.

1. what RPM does everyone operate when running FEL?

I did find out that I will be needing a ballast box of some sorts soon. put 4 hours in the seat moving 12 yards of 3/4 gravel for a pool project and got alittle, light a couple of times. searched thru and probably will build something in the near future. So, do they make a top link hitch or is everyone make there own?

Was thinking about filling tires, where is a good place to find material for filling?

Thanx,
I am sure I will come up with more questions as the projects start rolling in.

Shadogang

 

[tx2310]

You can run at what ever RPM you feel comfortable with to get the job done. I built a 3 PT. carry all that can be loaded with what ever ballast you want. Plus I added some angle iron on the bottom to grade the drive. I haven't filled my tires. Plus you will need more weight then what you will get with the filled tires.

Doug

 

[blackd]

If you have an implement (blade, tiller, etc) that will do as a counter weight. If not, consider getting a rear blade.

I got my tires filled when I bought tractor at no cost, but while shopping the Kubota dealer said they had a guy on call. So, ask your dealer who/what they have fill their tires. Mine are filled with windshield washer fluid, or something very similar.

 

[jaybrad]

I usually run my tractor between 1,500 - 2,000 RPMs for just about everything except snow blowing and wood chipping. It has plenty of hydraulic power for the FEL and BH, and is relatively quiet. It also seems pretty frugal with diesel fuel.

Can't help with the ballast issue - I usually have the BH on, which takes care of that need very nicely.

Jay

 

[irvingj]

Ditto jaybrad-- <2000 rpm, except blowing snow (right up to red line), seems to work just fine. I also leave backhoe on for ballast/traction. Occasionally speed up engine for a little more oomph if needed for FEL or BH, but that's not often.

 

[shadogang]

Thanks for all the replys, I was running around 2000 rpm for FEL work and that did seem like enough umph to get the job done.
Book says to operate at full throtle for first 50 hours, that seems high to break engine in. Is this a diesel thing or am I missing something else.

For theBallast on the back, I was going to make my own box. My question, the alignment of the lower and upper links, are they on the same vertical plane?

Shadogang

 

[jaybrad]

Book says to operate at full throtle for first 50 hours, that seems high to break engine in. Is this a diesel thing or am I missing something else.

Shadogang

Geez, guess I missed that section of the book. I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I think that sounds high, too. I don't remember doing anything special during my first 50 hours, which means that the majority of time it was < 2,000. There were times when I ran it full throttle but those were definitely the exception.

Jay

 

[irvingj]

I suspect, because diesels are compression-ignition and the rings really need to seat well in the cylinders, they like a higher-RPM break-in than gassers.

I know my Jetta TDI has the recommendation of never shifting before 2500 when cold, 3000 when warm. Part of that's due to the turbo, I'll admit, but owners are cautioned not to baby it so the rings will be under high pressure & seat well- for the first 30-40,000 miles!

As a result, when I saw that recommendation in the M-F manual, it didn't seem odd to me. Since it was used mostly for blowing during its first 35 hours, keeping the RPMs up wasn't a problem. (The general rule of thumb with the TDI is "Drive it like you stole it!")

Some more experienced diesel people might have more info....

 

[Bever22]

I suspect, because diesels are compression-ignition and the rings really need to seat well in the cylinders, they like a higher-RPM break-in than gassers.

I know my Jetta TDI has the recommendation of never shifting before 2500 when cold, 3000 when warm. Part of that's due to the turbo, I'll admit, but owners are cautioned not to baby it so the rings will be under high pressure & seat well- for the first 30-40,000 miles!

As a result, when I saw that recommendation in the M-F manual, it didn't seem odd to me. Since it was used mostly for blowing during its first 35 hours, keeping the RPMs up wasn't a problem. (The general rule of thumb with the TDI is "Drive it like you stole it!")

Some more experienced diesel people might have more info....

Thats the truth, the rings need to seat well and they dont want the engine to "lug" during break in. I ran my 1528 at the max for the first 60+ hours.

 

[jaybrad]

Great. Now I find out that I was supposed to actually *read* the owner's manual? Man, this tractor stuff is demanding.

Well, I ran mine at full throttle when snow blowing, using the wood chipper, or driving on the road to go visit a neighbor; I ran it about 2,000 RPMs when using the backhoe; and there were times when I let it idle for a few minutes.

Maybe in a decade or so I'll be able to speculate on if/how that pattern affected my 2310. In the meantime, I'll just keep on using it and hope for the best.