our MF1643L arrived today

[woodchuckcanuck]

I stand corrected, this from the dealer:

The MF1540 was a 3 cylinder turbo. They could not put a cab on this tractor because the turbo was in the way of installing the air conditioner. The new model MF1643 was designed as a 4 cylinder with no turbo so a cab could be installed.

[BIG_R_Jr_3]

WCC as we like to say it in the south, "She's a Peach"........Congrad's on the the new Big Red Machine....

I think your going to like that set up you got, very smart having all your implements matching your width base of 72"....I did the same with all of mine as well, can't tell you how many times I've come close to breaking something, cutting that corner to close, or catching a fence post, etc.

It's nice knowing that if the Tractor fits so will everything else attached to it.

Don't know if this is your first cab enclosure or not, watch out for those low tree limbs they have a way of showing up fast, and they also like those lights too........Don't ask me how I know, take my word for it.

Regards,
Big R

[woodchuckcanuck]

first cab??? Heck, its the first time I ever sat on a tractor Although I am aware of the low limb scenario. It played a roll in the decision making process.

[BIG_R_Jr_3]

WCC I didn't know it was your first baby, now that's really a good reason to celebrate.

After your done reading all that safety manuel crap, I mean stuff.......First thing I would do is take it out to a big open field and get yourself properly introduced to each other.

Start with all of your safety thoughts and begin your mental checklist of things you will need to remember before starting and operating.

Then start going thru the gears, start with low gear first and start moving up to higher gears. While your doing this I would suggest making figure eights so you see how much radius will be needed as you proceed. Start in 4x2 mode, go thru all of those gears, and then repeat in 4x4 the same thing. You will notice how much larger of diameter the 4x4 is to the 4x2. Now try using the reverse gear till you become more comfortable doing all of this. Also when ever your on hard asphalt or cement keep her in 4x2 mode and your tread life on your tires will last a lot longer.

I also would practice things like hooking up the loader bucket, disconnect and hook up again. My suggestion would be to try to find a good stable LEVEL surface which will help with this routine. Then hook up other implements, Fork, etc. etc. At first seems like it takes for ever, but with practice you will improve.

Once your comfortable and confindent start putting that baby to work. I mean hard work the first 100 hours I would bush hog, plow, or drag a field till I know I put her thru some real hard work. This will help with setting your rings/valves in your motor. You want Low gears 4x4 pulling anything will do this nicely. Now is the time to do this and you'll be fine...

Beginning seems like play time but respect that baby cause you will put yourself into some situations down the road somewhere that your reactions could be the difference between a good outcome or not. Remember heavy machinery can be dangerous, be patient, and let the machine do the work that it was inteeded to do.

Now get to work, your killing daylight........

Regards,
Big R

[woodchuckcanuck]

Thanks BigR. Good advice. I've already read the safety and equipment manuals. Now its just a matter of seat time...and to find time to do it. I done a bit of driving around, maybe 20 min or so thus far. Nothing flat here, I live on a hillside. First big project is to clear out a spot behind the workshop to park all the gear. About 50ft wide and 60ft deep, I may go 100ft deep. Eventually I will put up a shelter with 10 clearance, about 20 ft wide and 30-40ft long. I want to be able to drive right around the workshop, park the trailer at th e back and offload the equipment. Then hook up and again and drive out. I staked it out this afternoon. There's nothing but boulders and rocks underneath based on what I walked over. Drainage is a concern since the hill is always wet, even in winter.

[woodchuckcanuck]

Well here's my first crack at using the backhoe. Drove down into the ditch in back of the workshop and put a few scoops in the back of the truck. I need some soil for tomorrow to fill a sink hole in the neighbor's yard. The soil is wet wet wet and plenty of rocks, like you see here. I'm loading up a video onto youtube, should be ready in about 15 minutes. Of course, the missus spotted a rock big enough for her garden. No problem!

[WilliamBos]

Were all the cab lights standard?

[woodchuckcanuck]

I didn't ask for them...sooooo...yeah, I'd say that makes them standard.

[WilliamBos]

Originally Posted by woodchuckcanuck

I didn't ask for them...sooooo...yeah, I'd say that makes them standard.

Our MF dealer has 30, most ready to go out, some assembly left on others, but all SOLD, and all 1643 cab models.

[BIG_R_Jr_3]

Originally Posted by woodchuckcanuck

Thanks BigR. Good advice. I've already read the safety and equipment manuals. Now its just a matter of seat time...and to find time to do it. I done a bit of driving around, maybe 20 min or so thus far. Nothing flat here, I live on a hillside. First big project is to clear out a spot behind the workshop to park all the gear. About 50ft wide and 60ft deep, I may go 100ft deep. Eventually I will put up a shelter with 10 clearance, about 20 ft wide and 30-40ft long. I want to be able to drive right around the workshop, park the trailer at th e back and offload the equipment. Then hook up and again and drive out. I staked it out this afternoon. There's nothing but boulders and rocks underneath based on what I walked over. Drainage is a concern since the hill is always wet, even in winter.

WCC The white building in the picture is that the work shop your speaking of ?? If so I see the hill and your drainage concern your talking about.

What's the length & width of the shop building you have?? Here's a thought that might work for you. Build a Lean and attach to your existing building and use it as your shelter for your stuff. Will that work ?? Can't see the entire building or its surroundings so I'm not able to speak about appreance issues and such....But would work and I believe you might even gain more than 10' Height clearance atleast on one side nearest building. Many a barns have leans attached and look great and are very practical expense wise too...

I have a 30' x 40' garage which I store all of my stuff in, but one day I will attach a lean to it as my future growth plans develop. It's going to look great, and will add to the building. It will attach to it and continue the same roof line decent. I already see it in my mind that's also where that new long bed trailer is parked when not in use, that too is in my mind.

Just trying to think of ways for you to save some money and also get what you want. I hate hearing others or myself thinking "oh I wish I would of" done this or that back when we were building it (hind site thing).

Drainage Issue, how about a swale ??? Slope everything to it and run it down that hill away from you. That MF1643 TBL would love doing that for you... and if your ground is firm enough no problems. I have one that's around 500' long and 6' wide and pitches high to low. The front is 3' higher than the back. For better looking apperance I filled with 3/4 white drain rock. I have no water problems anymore and even after hurricanes of rain fall my swale will be empty the next day...You can do a lot with swales, many types and many garden varies too. Do a google search on em, you'll see.

Regards,
Big R