GC2410 Coldest Weather Starting problem

[MF RED in MT]

hey irvingj, DEWFPO, and everyone else, again thanks for all the great information. I did order the block heater for my MF. They show the only one listed is for the GC2400, but I am sure its the same one used for the GC2410. The price was $129.35 plus shipping. Once I have reached my 50 hours, I will have it serviced and from that point on only use the synthetic oils.
On another note, I have had to use a small heater to unfreeze the augers, chute rotation assembly, and the chute deflection shock assembly even though I clean the snow off after each use. I make sure the augers rotate free before I even start the tractor up. Maybe this will help prevent any abuse on the shear pins? I also ingage the PTO at low RPM and then slowly increase the PRM's to 2000 before beginning to blow some snow. Wow this thing really throws the snow quite a distance. I am not sure that I need that much RPM, but I do not want it to bog down. I have also noticed the frozen snow that slides off of the roof onto the driveway really throws some iced and hard golf ball size projectiles, and I think i am going to purchase some quarter inch plywood, cut to my house window sizes, and hang them up before I start blowing snow. Just so I do not have to replace any windows. I have also noticed that the joy stick float position works great on the frozen driveway base and follows all the little ups and downs really good. KC

 

[irvingj]

MF- Unless they've changed the design, you may find that, after you've got some hours on it, the "float" will pop out when you drive over a bump; mine still does that, so I just rest my hand on the lever to hold it in float whenever I use it.

I also clean mine off after use, but sometimes I get some freezing under the chute rotation plate. I always check that before I start blowing.

I've never had a problem with the auger, but if you don't clean out the bottom of the fan, a chunk of ice will develop there. There is a drain hole, but the blower needs to be fully raised for that to work well; don't forget to clean out that area, too.

I also, whenever possible, park it so the blower faces the sun (if there is any!) for a while before I put it away. Mine being black, it clears itself very quickly. Have you greased everything yet?

You're engaging the PTO correctly; I find mine behaves much better if I first engage the "2000" (PTO speed) lever, then the PTO lever, not the other way around. Oddly enough, disengaging seems to work best the same way- first the "2000" lever.

Have fun!

 

[massey driver]

Hey there irvingj have you taken the float cap off your hydralic valve yet.Your right about it wanting to pop out of float.I've done mine twice now and find that if I squeeze the c-clip a bit tighter together it doesn't pop out of float for quite a while.Once it does start doing that I just unscrew the cap and squeeze that c-clip a bit tighter.If you've had that cap off you know its only a quick maybe 5 minute job.I'd rather not have to have to keep my hand on the lever to keep it in float.Like to have my hands ready for changing the shute direction and steering wheel.Plus I also find it a PITA to keep my hand on the control lever.Wonder if anyone
has thougth of putting a bit heavier or stronger c-clip spring in there.

I also have the block heater in the block and plug in for a hour and its starts up first crank.Sure I cheat a bit because it's inside the heated shop.The reason I plug it in is this way the engine is warm and the heater starts blowing warm air almost instantly.

I don't have to worry about the chute freezing unless there's still water on those parts before they have a chance to dry off,before taking it outside.

The other thing is I usually take it out and let it sit a few minutes before using this way the metal gets cold enough so that the snow doesn't stick to it.

If I let it sit outside I'll do what others do let it sit in the sun and keep it plugged in this way when I'am ready to put it back in It'll start up. Larry

 

[NubsNob]

Just a quick suggestion regarding using a timer with your engine heater. I had my MF 1528 block heater (600 Watt I believe) hooked up to a timer, which comes on every day whether or not you need it.(Saves on the electric bill) Bought a heavy duty RF remote outlet control which enables me to kick the heater on from my house. I'm retired, so there is no hurry involved. Click the button on the remote, have a couple of cups of coffee, read the new etc. Couple of hours go out and it's ready to go. Do it Best HW 2190 SKU 519537 $14.49. 13 AMPS/1560 Watts Resistive.

 

[DEWFPO]

I use a an HD timer that runs the power thru a Thermo-Cube so the timer will kick on, but the block heater won't get energized unless the temp is lower than the Therm-Cube temp. Saves money.

DEWFPO

 

[ray66v]

Keep in mind every time you heat the engine up, and cool it off, your creating moisture in the engine.

I would not heat it up unless your sure your going use it right away, or unless your going to leave the heat on until you need to run it.

 

[irvingj]

Hey there irvingj have you taken the float cap off your hydralic valve yet.

Yes, I removed the float cap a year or so ago to check it out, clean & grease it, and I know the c-clip you're talking about. Guess I just adapt too quickly! (Actually lazy- resting my hand on it was easy!)

I'll pull it apart again sometime and try squeezing the clip in a bit- thanks; sounds like a good idea.

 

[dbail]

i have mf 1250, in cold weather i plug it in for about 1 hour. then i use glow plugs for about 90 sec.it will start on the 2nd turn. they are cold blooded.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Hey irvingj, thats correct, I do engage the mid PTO clutch lever to the "2000" first, then engage the mid PTO lever. After that I then encrease the throttle lever RPM slowly up to 2000 RPMs. I have only disengaged by reducing the RPMs as low as they go, then disengage the mid PTO lever, and finish with disengaging the PTO clutch lever.

My block heater arrived and was like yours with only 1 bolt, so off to the ace hardware for another metric bolt (m8x16 capscrew). Had help to install since I am disabled, but way to easy to install. MF gets kudos from me, the anti-freeze draincock location allows for one half gallon juice container with a funnel and no mess and the design of this block heater is great with lots of room for it. Removed the raditor cap and drained all the almost 5 US quarts of fluid into 3 half gallon containers. After the frost plug was punched sideways with a flat punch on the left side of the plug, it was pulled out, there was no anti-freeze at all dripping from the hole. Used some fine sand paper to clean up the almost clean hole, then added some white grease to the hole and "O" ring, and it popped in by only pushing on it. Installed and torqued the 2 bolts, then refilled the radiator with the original anti-freeze. Started the tractor and ran for 10 minutes, no leaks, shut it off and checked fluid level. Install the power cord to the heater and its done. The instructions say this heater is for "Iseki E3112" engines GC2300; 1423; 1225; FC23; ST25; & MT225 (a little outdated - AGCO Corporation published September, 2004). Before starting, doubled checked the model number of the engine casked on the left side of the block and verified the diameters of the frost plug hole with the block heater were the same.
F.Y.I. to others, block heater kit # 4269250M91, hope this information will help others and B.T.W. when your MF dealer tells you that there is no block heater available for the GC2410, he is either full of BS, or lazy, or not doing his job .
KC

 

[irvingj]

Yeah, I agree they did that right as far as fit on their block heater-- like a glove! I did it "the hard way" by draining the whole radiator-- guess I didn't need to go quite that far....

Glad to hear you got it in. It does make starting a lot smoother/quicker/easier.

I've also found that disengaging the PTO for the blower can be done at speed; when I'm finished at the top of my driveway and am ready to move --as quickly as I can-- to another location, without reducing engine speed, and with a firm hand, I just "thump" the PTO speed lever forward into neutral and then drop the other to disengage. No need to reduce RPMs- both go smoothly, and then I can hit the go-pedal and move along. Saves a bit of time, and there's no clashing. (When re-engaging, of course, I slow it down to idle.)