GC2410 Coldest Weather Starting problem

[piercedtiger]

Two year old bump, but I finally just pulled the cable off the tractor in the spring of last year to spay lock-ease into a piece of tubing I used as a funnel while it was hanging vertically. In the process of removing the cable I did find a section of plastic worn off exposing the metal wall so I covered it in a couple layers of marine shrink tube (the kind with adhesive to seal out water) before hanging and spraying. It did not freeze up again the following winter.

 

[irvingj]

Sounds like that may have been how water was getting into it... Glad you got it fixed!

 

[piercedtiger]

Between that and the new battery put in this month I'm hoping this winter will be easier for me, and no more spending 30+ minutes trying to get it to start.

 

[JWR]

MF Red in NW Montana -- I'm too lazy I guess to read all 83 posts. I will spend a few moments and say what I think is really pertinent. 1) Using #1 diesel you described is not a good idea. Dozer operators in frequently subzero climates routinely use 50% Kerosene, NOT 100%. "#1 diesel" is kerosene. 2) Let the glow plugs run a bit longer before first try in very cold weather and YES use them again when retrying. 3) Any of the good additives such as SeaFoam or others spec'd for avoiding gel may help. 4) Newer diesel cars use heated fuel lines as well as block heaters. Block heaters and glow plugs do not matter if the fuel gels in the lines. That's why the additive but using 50% kerosene should preclude the gel problem. 5) If you do all these things and have a strong battery the little beast will start and start pretty easily even at zero and below. If not, something else (peculiar and rare) is wrong. Note: by disconnecting the glow plugs one at a time you can use an ohmmeter to see if they are OK. A good glow plug will read like a short using an ohmmeter while a burned out glow plug will read open. You might even want to check those before doing anything else. Good luck.

 

[MF RED in MT]

JWR,
Thanks for the information, I have not read all the post myself in a few years.
To update: I have no issues starting my GC2410 in the winter while being parked in my unheated garage...

Tractor starts great even when it's -40F (no wind chill factor used here).

I use off road #2 winter blend diesel with power service white bottle additive (I know others use different products).

I plug my MF block heater in for 15 to 45 minutes, depending on hold cold it is outside.

I start the tractor up as recommended by my MF owners manual.

I warm the tractor up as recommended by my MF owners manual.

After 7 years, the procedure is almost second nature, with no stress involved (cab and heater really helps making snowblowing a pleasure).
God bless to all, KC

 

[rjmack]

I've gotten to the point that I just don't ever shut the tractor off in the winter without it being in range of an extension cord. otherwise it will be stranded. I just leave it idling for however long I am working at the mill or whatever else I'm doing.

I felt bad about leaving it running for the longest time because of wasted fuel, then one day it dawned on me... that thing will run hard all day long for $20.00, I could probably idle it for a week for that much money.

it's all good now.

 

[piercedtiger]

I've gotten to the point that I just don't ever shut the tractor off in the winter without it being in range of an extension cord. otherwise it will be stranded. I just leave it idling for however long I am working at the mill or whatever else I'm doing.

I felt bad about leaving it running for the longest time because of wasted fuel, then one day it dawned on me... that thing will run hard all day long for $20.00, I could probably idle it for a week for that much money.

it's all good now.

I will say all of my hard start issues went away when I changed the battery. It's been down to 4 degrees more than once this winter with several days around 20F that I went out to go plow, and unlike previous years I have not used the block heater once. I used the battery charger 1 time, but after that I determined the LED on my light bar switch was draining it enough to cause issue over the course of a week or more of not using it. With that switch unplugged until needed I haven't had an issue.

The biggest issue I have now is the tractor speed and loader speed slowing down after an hour or so of plowing in the windy sub freezing temps. If I let the tractor idle for a few minutes in gear while I do something else all functions are at normal speed for a while after as if the fluid needed to warm back up. At one point last year or so when it was below zero the tractor would stall out if I tried driving or moving the loader unless I shifted to neutral or let it idle in gear for at least a couple minutes. I think that's what prompted me to bypass the seat safety switch so I could let it idle with the HST engaged to circulate fluid and warm it up before using, and again later if it started bogging down again.

 

[ray66v]

The biggest issue I have now is the tractor speed and loader speed slowing down after an hour or so of plowing in the windy sub freezing temps. If I let the tractor idle for a few minutes in gear while I do something else all functions are at normal speed for a while after as if the fluid needed to warm back up. At one point last year or so when it was below zero the tractor would stall out if I tried driving or moving the loader unless I shifted to neutral or let it idle in gear for at least a couple minutes.

That's definitely not normal.

I can't see, "the fluid needing to be warmed back up", while in operation.

I would be more inclined to think you have a flow related, or pump issue.

What transmission fluid are you running?