GC 2300 thermostat temp

[massey driver]

Been wondering if anyone has installed a higher temp thermostat into there GC tractor.The one that it has now is 160 o F. Now because of having a cab and a heater in the cab I would like to install a 195 o F thermostat for winter use.Our weather in the winter is say -25 c usually. What I had to do last winter was put a piece of cardboard with a 4" hole in the center of it.It was enough to bring the temp guage up to 160 untill I turned the heater on then the temp would drop[guess the heater acts as a rad as well] Anyway been wondering if it would hurt to put in a higher temp thermostat to get more heat from the heater.I know that they have a special offset thermostat because of the sensor that goes into the housing,but because of me having changed mine to a actual temp gauge instead of the [idiot light] I can put in a regular thermostat.My question is would running it at a higher temp do it any harm. Larry

 

[Labrat]

I would suggest not increasing the T stat to a 195 on an IDI engine I would block part of the radiator to get the temp up. They put 160 thermostats in in-direct fuel injected diesel engines because there is a chance that if you load the engine before the thermostat opens you can over temp the pre-chambers and crack the head.

 

[irvingj]

I second Labrat's suggestion- partial cover over the radiator. Experiment with cardboard.

Anybody remember the little "window-shade" cover that could be pulled up to cover the grille opening on old 3-cylinder 2-stroke SAABs? Same deal- when car was up to temp and you turned on the heater, the temp gauge would plummet immediately! It really needed that window shade to be closed in the winter.:laughing: There was a little cord with a knob on it located under the dash that you'd pull-- no kidding!

 

[MFRED]

I second Labrat's suggestion- partial cover over the radiator. Experiment with cardboard.

Anybody remember the little "window-shade" cover that could be pulled up to cover the grille opening on old 3-cylinder 2-stroke SAABs? Same deal- when car was up to temp and you turned on the heater, the temp gauge would plummet immediately! It really needed that window shade to be closed in the winter.:laughing: There was a little cord with a knob on it located under the dash that you'd pull-- no kidding!

That's funny. I bet it worked perfect though.

As silly as it would be in 2010, wouldn't it be nice if things were kept that simple? Today there would be a temp switch, relay, some fuses, an electric actuator, all kinds of crap to fail. You probably couldn't find it under the hood anyway.

 

[Transit]

A 195 T-stat or blocking the radiator both raises the engine temperature. I would go with blocking the radiator as it allows for adjustment, where a 195 T-stat locks you into one fixed temperature. I think a 195 T-stat is too hot, 175-180 would be the max. how does the coolant temp run in the summer while brush hogging?

 

[Labrat]

I replaced the belt driven fan with a Spal electeric fan and PWM controller so I can adjust when the fan comes on. I have it come on at 165 in the summer and 185 in the winter and I still get coolant flow through the cylinder head at 160. The PWM makes it variable speed giving it better control... This is an old pic I started with an 11 inch fan but have since changed to a 14.

 

[massey driver]

Thanks for all the replies.I ended up putting a 180 in for the winter.I will reinstall the 160 for summer.I'll soon find out if the thermostat itself will be good enough.I;ve used the tractor have put 5hrs on since the change and it's been running 175 on the temp gauge,before it was showing 160.Larry

 

[dieselfreak]

Thanks for all the replies.I ended up putting a 180 in for the winter.I will reinstall the 160 for summer.I'll soon find out if the thermostat itself will be good enough.I;ve used the tractor have put 5hrs on since the change and it's been running 175 on the temp gauge,before it was showing 160.Larry

There is NO rereason to change the thermosyay, as their is a bypass lne on the t-stat housing, so some coolant will bypass, and it will heat up quick.

df.

 

[not2old]

I second Labrat's suggestion- partial cover over the radiator. Experiment with cardboard.

Anybody remember the little "window-shade" cover that could be pulled up to cover the grille opening on old 3-cylinder 2-stroke SAABs? Same deal- when car was up to temp and you turned on the heater, the temp gauge would plummet immediately! It really needed that window shade to be closed in the winter.:laughing: There was a little cord with a knob on it located under the dash that you'd pull-- no kidding!

My 1962 Volvo had one too. You had to come to a complete stop to lower it but it sure kept the interior toasty.

 

[irvingj]

Didn't realize Volvo had one, too... those Swedes were on to something, I think!:thumbsup:

The SAABs I was referring to were of the same vintage; I had the good fortune to drive a couple, both '65 models, their model number 96, I believe. Very simple, economical, spacious cars that cornered like they were on rails and outdrove evrything but 4-wheel drives (and even some of them!) in the snow. They even had windshield washers when US manufacturuers were just beginning to think about them. Granted, they were 2-strokes....

Kinda homely, but they had a tendency to grow on ya!

I think it's a shame that SAAB and Volvo (and MB, and Peugeot, etc.) seem to have lost the ability to make relatively un-fancy, economical automobiles.

OK. Off my soapbox now....:ashamed: