Coolant change, what do you use?

[Wacky]

Thinking about changing my coolant before winter this year. What are you guys using? And are you guys flushing w/ a chemical? And last, but not least, do you use distilled water? My city water has a high amount of lime, and some rust in it, so I was going to go with distilled. I think it only holds about 1.5 gallons of coolant anyhow. Just wondering what is out there. And is there any long life alternative so I don't have to do it every year or 2? Thanks in advance for ideas.:thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

Diesels normally require antifreeze that contains extra additives for diesel engines. According to the book of MF, you can use regular antifreeze in these. However, MF wants you to change the coolant annually, suggesting they have concerns about the antifreeze additives lasting in these engines.

I am using Fleet Charge heavy duty antifreeze.
Fleet Charge Heavy Duty Antifreeze & Coolant, 1 gal. - 8000177 | Tractor Supply Company
It's designed for diesel engines, and contains all the necessary additives. It seems to be the most reasonably priced readily available diesel antifreeze.

I have only changed this antifreeze every other year, it still looks like new, and the system looks clean, when I remove it.

Although it certainly can't hurt, I have never used distilled water. As one example, my Villager has 198,000 miles on it, most of that is with city water in there. My cooling system is fine.

 

[Toyboy]

I don't get it. What is the big difference between coolant circulating in a gas engine and a diesel? It is a closed system and removes heat generated by combustion. The only difference I can see is at what temp it circulates. If the additive package works for 5 years in a car/truck, why won't it do the same in a diesel? Is this one of the "old wives" tales that accompany so many rumors we see on the net?

 

[955Lincoln]

I don't get it. What is the big difference between coolant circulating in a gas engine and a diesel? It is a closed system and removes heat generated by combustion. The only difference I can see is at what temp it circulates. If the additive package works for 5 years in a car/truck, why won't it do the same in a diesel? Is this one of the "old wives" tales that accompany so many rumors we see on the net?

I was thinking old wives tale also until I did some research. I have never owned a diesel before and now I have 3 of them so I thought I had better check. I'm not sure if it is the sleeve design or higher compression of a diesel but the coolant will cavitate (mini explosions) against the cylinder liners. If this goes on long enough it will eat into the combustion chamber. The additives coat the liner and will help with this problem. I have also learned that some diesels don't have this problem and do not require the special additives. Why? I don't know.

I spoke to a retired diesel mechanic not long ago and he has seen deep pits and open holes in liners. He didn't know what caused it but it seems to support the theory.

 

[Wacky]

Diesels normally require antifreeze that contains extra additives for diesel engines. According to the book of MF, you can use regular antifreeze in these. However, MF wants you to change the coolant annually, suggesting they have concerns about the antifreeze additives lasting in these engines.

I am using Fleet Charge heavy duty antifreeze.
Fleet Charge Heavy Duty Antifreeze & Coolant, 1 gal. - 8000177 | Tractor Supply Company
It's designed for diesel engines, and contains all the necessary additives. It seems to be the most reasonably priced readily available diesel antifreeze.

I have only changed this antifreeze every other year, it still looks like new, and the system looks clean, when I remove it.

Although it certainly can't hurt, I have never used distilled water. As one example, my Villager has 198,000 miles on it, most of that is with city water in there. My cooling system is fine.

Thanks ray66, I was thinking there was some additives, but unsure what additives.

I was thinking old wives tale also until I did some research. I have never owned a diesel before and now I have 3 of them so I thought I had better check. I'm not sure if it is the sleeve design or higher compression of a diesel but the coolant will cavitate (mini explosions) against the cylinder liners. If this goes on long enough it will eat into the combustion chamber. The additives coat the liner and will help with this problem. I have also learned that some diesels don't have this problem and do not require the special additives. Why? I don't know.

I spoke to a retired diesel mechanic not long ago and he has seen deep pits and open holes in liners. He didn't know what caused it but it seems to support the theory.

That is something I didn't know. Wonder what actually makes it "cavitate"? Does it get so hot it disintegrates ??

 

[ray66v]

My understanding of this is some engines, (big diesels?) have a propensity to have problems with cavitation by design. And, some of the smaller engines are made in a way that is not an issue.

MF suggests annual changes. We all know antifreeze lasts longer than that. So, we are left to speculate why.

I bought the insurance policy, (the diesel antifreeze), and then I stopped thinking about it. :thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

I should have added, the additives that protect an engine from cavitation do wear out. Regular testing and replenishment is required to keep the DCA, diesel coolant additives, at the proper level.

Or, the other option is just change the antifreeze. On a semi your talking about a lot of antifreeze, so they add DCA additive to their antifreeze. On a subcompact tractor, you not talking about a lot of antifreeze. So you can just change it. Was this part, or all of the reason MF prescribes annual replacement of the coolant???

They did not say, so we don't know.

 

[955Lincoln]

Thanks ray66, I was thinking there was some additives, but unsure what additives.


That is something I didn't know. Wonder what actually makes it "cavitate"? Does it get so hot it disintegrates ??

Just a guess here but I think it's the combination of higher compression and a slip in cylinder sleeve instead of a solid cast block, ringing, vibration? It's not heat but rather very small air bubbles imploding with a lot of force. You know how some diesels sound like they are ready to blow up with that terrible knocking noise?

The higher grade coolants are basically lifetime, but as ray66v mentioned you need to use test strips and keep the SCA levels up. Most heavy construction equipment have coolant filters and you can buy a filter that contains an SCA charge if the levels are low. My Cat takes over 10 gallons of coolant so I won't be changing it out anytime soon. I will however keep the SCA levels up to par.

 

[TennFire]

I ran into this issue with my Powerstroke. After some research, I decided to use an antifreeze that you get from the International dealer which is specifically spec.'ed by International for its diesels because of this issue. No additional additives required.

 

[Soundguy]

if I can't find a good fleet precharged sca/dca coolant.. I use the green stuff and add the needed sca/dca / cavitation / electrolysis addatives. can be had at napa, CNH or a ford parts counter... and likely plenty of other automotive and tractor dealers counters.

soundguy