MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers

   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #1  

lazerguy

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Dec 15, 2009
Messages
14
Hi,

My 1968 MF180 has 18.4-34 rear tires on the heavy MF cast iron wheel centers, just like the MF1080's have.

I want to remove the rims from the centers to use lighter plate centers instead. Those cast iron centers are close to 900 pounds each!

I have removed the 8 nuts and clamps that hold the rim to the center, and tried -without success- to take off a rim while the center was still bolted to the axle.

Now I've taken the wheel off the tractor, laid it on the ground face up, and used my bulldozer's bucket to apply downward force to the center, hoping to dislodge it from the rim

Well, I've lifted my 20,000 lbs dozer's front end off the ground, and found in disbelief that the dang wheel center is still stuck to the rim...

Has anyone ever attempted to remove a rim from a cast iron center (or vice-versa) and succeeded??? I'd really like to know how!
I don't dare heat the center nor rim, for the tire is mounted to it and I've been warned of tire explosion risks associated with heating.

I'm kinda stuck!
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #2  
Why do you want them off? People usually want to add them, maybe find someone who wants a set to trade with you?
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers
  • Thread Starter
#3  
My needs for traction are moderate: the tractor is used for clearing snow using a blower, and carrying firewood in a 3-pt mounted box. It has no loader.
There is seldom any need for pulling or pushing very hard.
A lighter tractor is easier on the forest trails especially in spring.

On the other hand, having to repair a flat tire in the middle of the woods would be a total PITA with a complete wheel weight of nearly 1,200 pounds!
With a normal wheel, the weight is much more manageable and makes it possible to perform repairs on the rear axle components.

Of course, for normal tractor users, traction is everything...
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #4  
G'day have you let the air out of the tyre? I don't want to sound smart but the rim will shrink with air pressure



Jon
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #5  
I had one (Massey) and sold it a year ago. Mine had power adjust rims on cast centers, does yours? They are really hard to dismount.

I believe I still have the manual somewhere in the shop, I'll try to find it.
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #6  
I've found 2wd tractors with unloaded rear tires (and no chains) have a heck of a time pushing a rear snowblower up any kind of a hill. Once you set the blower down it losses a lot of traction.

My needs for traction are moderate: the tractor is used for clearing snow using a blower, and carrying firewood in a 3-pt mounted box. It has no loader.
There is seldom any need for pulling or pushing very hard.
A lighter tractor is easier on the forest trails especially in spring.

On the other hand, having to repair a flat tire in the middle of the woods would be a total PITA with a complete wheel weight of nearly 1,200 pounds!
With a normal wheel, the weight is much more manageable and makes it possible to perform repairs on the rear axle components.

Of course, for normal tractor users, traction is everything...
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #7  
In general, tractors are built to the light end of what they'll need for most chores you'll throw at 'em. REDUCE weight and it's a better than not chance you'll end up with an awkward handling, wheel spinning mistake....Not saying that's a given, but saying it's a strong probability.

Also, I've got a Massey now with power adjust wheels, and have owned several over the years. I've found them incredibly EASY to pull the rim from the wheel center. The small castings that attach to the larger center casting need to have the bolts loosened to a point where they aren't wedged tightly against the rails (on the rim. Once they're all loose, then start taking them off one at a time, bottom first and the top-most last. Make certain someone has a good firm hold on the rim when you remove that last piece. At that point, the rim and the rim center should have NO connection. Then unbolt the lug studs holding the rim center. (I've pulled dozens of them while doing paint jobs and/or brake jobs...)

In the photo I've included, look at the cast brackets on the outer perimeter of the cast center where they attach to the rail on the rim itself. You'll see a bolt/nut.....THAT is what must be removed to separate rim from wheel center....Keep in mind, as they're TIGHTENED, they wedge in place to grip the rails on the rim. They may need to be tapped loose with a hammer if they've been in place for a prolonged time period.
 

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   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #8  
Junk....

You let the Massey sit too long. It's urinating on the pavement.......:laughing:
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers
  • Thread Starter
#9  
My wheel are not power adjust. There are 8 cast brackets holding the rim to the center. Each bracket has a stud passing through it and a nut. As the nut is tightened, the bracket is wedged between the rim and center, and clamps the rim to the center.

Well, I would rather use chains in the winter, if necessary, than be stuck with a 1200 pound problem when flatting in the woods, or whenever I need to open the rear axle to work on the brakes or planetaries.

I've tried deflating the tire completely in case that would relieve some stress... didn't seem to make a difference. I did try to find someone to swap wheels with, but it seems that most wheels of that size were cast iron.
I did find someone with a Massey with steel centers of similar size, but he wanted to keep his tractor light and had no interest for my iron wheels.

Someone told me to look for combine wheels instead, as they were always made of steel, and probably had the same bolt pattern as tractor wheels.

Most likely I will cut my centers in halves to relieve the pressure and break them loose, then fabricate my own steel centers from 5/16 or heavier plate.
 
   / MF 1080 cast iron wheel centers #10  
Loosen up all the wedge lock bolts and then drive the tractor around a bit. (SLOWLY and CAREFULLY)
 
 
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