GC Series Owner Upgrades And Modifications

[bakerg]

When I heard the new 1700 series had a handle to open the hood I thought that was a good idea so I put 1 on my 2400. Boy does it make it easier to open the hood.:thumbsup: Found an old latch off a robot cage at work and just drilled 2 holes in the hood to mount it. Latch has a slot big enough to put 2 fingers in and just lift up.:thumbsup:



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[ray66v]

Thanks Gary, that could be a useful add.

Those who are interested in adding a handle like this, don't forget to use some sort of sealer around the bare metal, on both sides, before bolting it on.

If you don't, capillary attraction will cause water to sit under there and it will corrode.

 

[HellBender]

Found this website for handles. Many options

aMsp | Industrial Pull Handles & Grab Handles Metric Steel Aluminum Nylon

 

[Singalo]

Ok, I talked to my friend that built my cab and he did not keep any info on the "build" So, some day when I have time I will measure it all and get it together and rebuild a Build Thread!

Is there anyway you could talk to your friend and ask about possibly putting together a "Kit" that he would be willing to ship for a Price? I know lots of people that would be interested in buying a light duty cab just for snow blowing that would cost less then 4k.

 

[WANNABE1]

Wow, sorry I have not answered this before now, I don't get on that often and didn't get anything alerting me that I had a message to respond to....anyway, I had asked my friend about doing that and he said it is difficult to do without having the tractor there to work on and get the proper measurements. I still have not had time to measure any of the parts. I would imagine that if there is some auto body shop or places that work with metal in your area they could build a cab.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Hi GC owners,
We have just had a cold snap for about a week plus a few days: minus 11 to minus 28 degrees F, and highs of minus 2 to minus 15 degrees F, :mur:. My problem is having my tractor stored in an unheated but insulated garage with a wood burning stove, . I have always used the block heater and then warmed up the tractor with the garage door open, but with these cold temperatures, it sure is bitter cold inside the garage (with no heat used: minus 12 degrees). I put on my thinking cap and I am not any diesel man, but this is the solution I came up with.

I purchased some PVC pipe, fittings and rubber connectors from our local small Ace Hardware for about $75 (only parts within 60 miles). I assembled the parts to exhaust the diesel fumes of the tractor to the outside with the garage door closed and it has worked great, :cool2:. Like I said, I am not a diesel man, so I just tossed this idea against the wall and I think it has stuck, :drink:. I increased the size of the pipe from 1 1/2" to 2" to 2 1/2" to 3" thinking this would not create back pressure and damage the engine. I hope some of you will let me know if I was on the right track or just out in right field, :confused3:.

Here is my parts list of schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings listed from the tractors exhaust pipe to the end outside of my garage including temperatures that I recorded during the warming up of the tractor using a infra red automotive type gun ( all temps. were F):



1- rubber reducing connector 2" to 1 1/2" (temp. was 104 degrees) (take off the clamping band on the 1 1/2" end and push it on the exhaust pipe)
1- 2" pipe 12" long
1- rubber reducing connector 2 1/2" to 2" (temp. was 93 degrees)
1- 45 degree street elbow (temp. was 125 degrees)
1- 2 1/2" pipe 20" long (glued to the 45 degree elbow above) (temp. was 129 degrees)
1- 2 1/2" rubber connector
1- 2 1/2" 90 degree street elbow (temp. was 70 degrees)
1- 2 1/2" pipe 10" long (glued to the 90 degree elbow above) (temp. was 56 degrees)
1- rubber reducing connector 3" to 2 1/2" (temp. was 53 degrees)
1- 3" pipe 120" long (temp. was 53 degrees inside garage and 31 degrees outside garage)

I had the wood burning stove going and the garage temperature was 33 degrees and the outside tempurature was 12 degrees.

I have added 3 pictures to help show this monster that I created and now I cam breath clean air insde my garage with the door closed while waming up my tractor, :horseshoe:.

KC

 

[ray66v]

Nice idea KC. No one hate diesel fumes in the morning, more than me. Sometimes, it literally makes me sick.

Since short turn 90 degree elbows significantly decrease flow, consider putting a long turn 90 degree elbow, or (2) 45 degree elbows, instead of the short turn 90 you have at the floor.

Even better would be bushing up to 3" before the turn, and use a long turn 3" elbow.

As long as the pipe doesn't get too hot, I don't see any problem with this idea.

Remember though, you need to run the engine at a decent fast idle speed, to get it to warm up quickly. Low idle speed actually helps cool a diesel engine. And a higher idle will no doubt produce hotter temps.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Hi ray66v,
Thanks for your input information about my exhaust system vented to the outside, :thumbsup:. I first started with 2" going all the way to the outside, but the temps were about 40 degrees higher and the engine sounded alittle different, . What I posted above was plan "B". I have always wamed up the tractor at 1500RPM's as listed in the owners manual and followed the warm up times also listed. This system I have not noticed any change in the sound of the engine, but I think I am going to take your advise and install a 3" 90 degree street elbow at the floor level, :thumbsup:. This will also eliminate the 3/4" metal square tube I use at the floor because of the two different pipe sizes.
Thanks again, KC

 

[ray66v]

Try to find a long turn elbow. They are about twice as long, and offer much less resistance.

NIBCO 3 in. PVC DWV 90 Degree Spigot x Hub Long-Turn Elbow-C4807LTHD3 at The Home Depot

 

[rjmack]

Hi ray66v,
Thanks for your input information about my exhaust system vented to the outside, :thumbsup:. I first started with 2" going all the way to the outside, but the temps were about 40 degrees higher and the engine sounded alittle different, . What I posted above was plan "B". I have always wamed up the tractor at 1500RPM's as listed in the owners manual and followed the warm up times also listed. This system I have not noticed any change in the sound of the engine, but I think I am going to take your advise and install a 3" 90 degree street elbow at the floor level, :thumbsup:. This will also eliminate the 3/4" metal square tube I use at the floor because of the two different pipe sizes.
Thanks again, KC

forgive me if I overlooked it reading your posts, but a carbon monoxide detector is pretty cheap life insurance.