Rear axle oil seals FE 35

[dourobob]

I posted thsi on the YTMags site but thought there might be some additional expertise on this board -

I bought a 1962 "new-to-me" MF FE 35 last winter and have finally gotten around to changing all the fluids. When I bought the tractor I noticed the hydraulic tansmission fluid level was low but the 3PH worked well - no jerking and it held a snowblower up for 20 - 30 minutes before starting to leak down. There was no evidence of oil leaking at either end of the axle.
Now that I have drained and replaced the hydraulic fluid (to the full mark) I see oil at the end of the axle, around the brake drum, on the wheel rim and down the outside of the tire on the left hand side.
I assume I can look forward to pulling the axle and replacing the oil seal.
A few questions:
1 - Is there anything else I should check before I pull the axle?
2 - If I do replace the seal on one side is there a "while-I'm-at-it-I-might-as-well ...." moment here? Should I do both sides? or ???
3 - Any other advice based on experience that could make this job as smooth as possible? I do have the shop manual but so far have not found much in it that is helpful.

Thanks for any assistance.

Bob

 

[smokey]

I read your post on the other list and was interested in the fact there are 2 seals and the important inner oil seal can be changed without removing the bearing. The outer grease seal that can be slipped on without the bearing removal seems a great idea and I would like to get some. A couple of other places on the web I go for info on the web are Bareco cause I an an Aussie and Big Dean Austin's site.

 

[dourobob]

Rear axle oil seal kit

I tried the Bareco site for a kit that can be used to replace the outer oil seals on a MF FE 35 WITHOUT removing the bearings - no success.
Has anyone used such a kit? Any idea of availability? who carries it? part # ? Web site?
I agree, it sounds a whole lot easier than having to R&R the collar and bearing if it works.

Thanks for any suggestions. I will also post this on Parts & Repairs
Bob

 

[rlk]

Dourobob, I have the same problem with a TO 35. Mine are not leaking too much, but I do notice the oil on the wheel rims. I checked with a MF dealer, and he told me they were not too expensive for them to replace (did not give me a price) but suggested both sides be replaced while it was in the shop (I don't have a way to transport it, so would have to have the dealer, or repair person pick it up).

Since spring is here and I'm using the MF a bunch, I have put off having it done. Sure would be nice to find a mechanic who would do it in my garage.

What is a FE 35? Is it a MF 35 with a FEL????

I'll be watching to see the replies you get.

Bob

 

[dourobob]

An FE 35 is is a Massey Ferguson 35 that was manufactured in Coventry England - I probably should have called it a MF FE 35 Deluxe to be more accurate.

I just got an e-mail from Big Dean - if you don't know about him check out his Web Site - he is one of the guru's of Massey Ferguson and he said
<font color="blue"> "Those bearings have to be packed with grease & it is really rare that the outer seal has to be changed in those. Once you get the new inner seal in & the preload set on the bearings there will not be any oil get out to the outer seal. I know about the speed seal and have used them on the TO20 & TO30 they do not have an inner seal. They worked about half the time if there is enough polished area on the axle for them to run on they will usually hold if not they won't has been my experience with them. I really don't have a very high opinion of them." </font>.
Jack in NB (from the Massey part of the YTMags board - the same place I found out about Big Dean) has also provided some excellent help and says there is really no shortcut if both inner and outer seals need replacing. It is a much more demanding job.

I have been going over the Service Manual and the more condensed I&T manual and think I will try changing the inner seals here this week. I am no mechanic but the inner seals do appear to be very straight forward and it looks like actual seals are only about $10 each.
Hope to have a progress report next week - time and energy permitting.

Bob

 

[rlk]

Good luck changing the seals, and let us know how it turns out. I wouldn't mind tackling it if I had a little help, however, most of my friends are so busy working on their own equipment that I hesitate to ask them.

Any chance you can take a few pictures?

Bob

 

[rlk]

Dourobob, did you get your seals changed?

Bob

 

[dourobob]

Yes I did and, it it really was a fairly painless process. My apologies for not having any photos to show - the camera was on loan to a neighbour's daughter for her folks 25th Anniversary Party.

Let me descibe my experience (as best I can):
- jacked up the tractor and blocked it
- drained the hydraulic fluid
- removed loaded wheel - I used the FEL of my other tractor to hold the weight of the wheel/tire with a chain
- removed the brake drum - two very large screws hold it on the the hub - used a flat bar and a wrench to loosen them
- undid the 12 bolts holding the hub
- disconnected the brake by removing the pin near the axle housing that holds the yoke from the brake rod
- pulled out the axle - As soon as it was out I could see chunks of rubber around where the inner seals was supposed to be. Also be careful with the shims between the hub and axle - mine were in good shape and didn'y need to be replaced
- pulled out the old seal
- put in the replacement seal - ($10.95 Cdn. at the local bearing shop)
- used a piece of wood and a hemmer to set the seal into the axle
- cleaned and wiped everything I could find to clean and wipe
- replaced the axle - being very careful not to damage the newly installed seal
- put all the pieces back together

Based on some excellent advice from Big Dean and Jack in NB(two wonderfully generous Massey experts who provide guidance for amateurs like me) I repacked the bearings with grease and did not replace the outer seal but I did do BOTH inner seals.

I discovered on the right wheel that this process had likely been done recently as there was relatively fresh grease in the bearings and the seal was in excellent shape but, for $10.95 I changed it anyway while I had it apart.

- reloaded the hydraulic fluid

The only thing different on the right wheel is that the differential lock pedal needs to be wedged (or wired) down.

The whole job took me about 4-5 hours - keeping in mind I am NOT a mechanic and I spent some time just exploring my new-to-me toy I think this is reasonable.

I only had one part left over when I finished - the old seals /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hope this helps.

Bob

 

[Woodbeef]

Aaaahhhhh..........Bob.........you better go back in,you did not have no wheres near the corect amount of spare parts when you finished!!

Glad to hear it was a painless operation for both you and the patient!! Ain't Big Unc great when it comes to Massey info. Never tried Jack before,but I'll keep him in mind also.