Snow Massey 2360 Snow Blower -Chain

[sarekr]

The chain broke ( with out the sheer pin gong first! and it was well lubed) I'm putting on a replacement link. Question is: does the open ended connector (don't know the correct name for it) go on over ( inside ) of the seating groove? I'm having trouble getting to solid link cover to snap back /seat over it. dosen't appear to be enough room for both in the groove. I removed the rubber gaskets from the other side of the link to make room. any help would be welcomed. I don't want to get charged for a road call from the dealer for something like this.

 

[irvingj]

I've only done it once, but check with a motorcycle shop-- there's a special tool to use for getting a link on-- a link that doesn't use the "slide-on" elongated c-clip system, but more like a rivet.

It's a simple clamping arrangement, but with a recess for the ends of the link's pins.

Here's some info from Chain Tools

PRESS-FIT CHAIN LINK TOOLS
Since about 1990, most new chains use press-fit type side plates on the connecting links. On this type of link, the side plate cannot be installed properly without the aid of a special tool. The chain manufacturers have decided the press fit adds strength to the connecting link and should always be used. The Motion Pro chain press tools are designed to install the press-fit connecting links on standard and O-ring chains.

Versatile enough to be used on cam chains or drive chains. Will break chains from #35 to #630. For chain 520 and up, it is recommended to grind to rivet head. Each kit includes 3 pin sizes to fit most chains. Features new & improved investment-cast-hardened body and redesigned body bolt. Now the kit includes press places (AD680087). Recommended for light to medium duty use.


Let me know how it goes, as I have the same blower!

 

[amkfken]

I broke 2 chains last week!!
Must have o rings installed on link and plate. slide sprockets together (loosen 4 bolts on each side of housing and pry bottom sprocket up) This adds slack to chain to aid in putting it together.
Squeeze link and plate together with big needle nose pliers, slip one end of spring retainer clip over one end, squeeze other end link and plate together, slide retainer clip over squeezed end--done!
Tighten chain prying bottom sprocket down, tighten the 4 bolts, chain really has no slack!

Real pain in cold weather have done it 4 times in 3 years, buy another as a spare or have dealer make a couple for you ($20.15 for 2 including links last week.)

Rehearse your cuss words when assembling!!!

Good luck

 

[irvingj]

Ken, any idea why your chains are breaking?

I haven't broken one yet, and can't say I look forward to doing so. Your thought of having a spare handy does sound like a good idea, however! Gonna add that to my spare-parts-to-have-on-hand list for sure.

WBB in NH

 

[LuckyP62]

I broke my chain last week as well. Combination of very heavy, deep snow and slack in the chain did the trick. My theory - We've had repeated heavy, wet snowfalls this year and I have a mile long driveway. Over time, the extra torque on the chain caused it to slacken, then all it took was a bit of a slip and a sprocket tooth snapped the chain (luckily the sprockets are fine). I usually check the chain tension each season - guess i should have checked more frequently this year!

 

[amkfken]

Irvingj: chain breakage caused by: 2x8x4ft end of walk, 24" piece of firewood blown off stack under snow, tennis ball to softball size rocks in snow left by county grader.

All hidden objects under snow not after first snow but much later in season.

The 2x8 also split the front gearcase, that is about $150 in addition to chain, note shear pins not bothered a bit after all these.

Keep your chain tight!!

 

[MF RED in MT]

Before the ground freezes, I pound my snow markers into the ground for reference and this helps me after the snow starts building up, :thumbsup:. My gravel driveway is only about 300 feet total with one 80 degree turn. I locate these markers, $2 each I think from Lowes about 15-25 feet apart or so, . This system has saved me many shear bolts because I know the area inside of the sonw markers has been cleared of objects that are bad for my snowblower, :confused2:. I think these snow markers are cheap insurance unless you have a 1/8 mile of driveway, :ashamed:.
1). I am concerned some of you are breaking the drive chain for the snowblower and also breaking it many times?
2). Do you use the MF replacement grade 5 and grade 8 shear bolts or do you use something similar or different?
3). Another stupid question from me is did the shear bolts shear when the drive chain broke?
The only problem I have had with the drive chain is a set screw backed off of one of the sprockets and it allowed the sprocket and chain to float back and forth on the shaft, . I corrected this by adding a jam set screw to the sprockets.
KC

 

[irvingj]

Thanks-- I'll check the chain tension soon; I'm almost due for another lube job on it anyway.

Used the leaf blower again on the dusting we got yesterday AM. Works really well on the light stuff, so it doesn't get compacted and turned into ice. A bit noisier than the tractor/blower, however!