Biggreenavalanche
Gold Member
Thanks for the quick reply...I think that's probably what's happened in my case as well...milky hydro fluid (water)...I think I'll just buy a new/reman and replace...
Rich
How long does it take to rebuild an MF35 hydraulic pump?
- Thread starter cockeyedMFer
- Start date
Thanks for the quick reply...I think that's probably what's happened in my case as well...milky hydro fluid (water)...I think I'll just buy a new/reman and replace...
Rich
shona13
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2012
- Messages
- 367
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 148 .Chamberlain Super 70. Caterpillar D4. Chamberlain 354 FEL.Toro 268 rideon kubota L2002fel
G'day Rich.
Let us assume that when you remove the lift cover that you indeed find the pump damaged beyond repair ,which incidently in my 40 plus years working on Masseys I would say maybe two /three times the pumps were mechanicaly destroyed due to owners messing with releif valve pressures or other overpressure issues, asking the tractor to do something that it was not designed to do.
You will need AT LEAST This list of parts to rebuild the pump:
One Camshaft.
Two camblocks.
Two valve chambers.
Two sets of suction and discharge valves and springs.
One pump O ring kit.
One PTO Seal and O ring.
Possibly the O ring sealing sleeve on the shaft.
Most likely both pump end plates ,(which is now a complete pump)
Let me suggest the easiest way for you .
Replace the pump ,that is buy a NEW PUMP from ebay etc I have seen brand new pumps for 600 dollars.
Make sure if possible you buy a pump with a filter ,the original mark one pump did not come with a hydraulic filter Eventually Masseys supplied a filter kit that could be fitted to the original pump.
On top of the new pump you will need :
Two dowel peg gaskets .
Two dowel pegs.
A hydraulic lift cover gasket.
two Side plate gaskets.
PTO SEAL and O ring.
three" O " rings ,two for the stack pipe and one for the transfer cap that fits on top of the stack pipe ( all the same size)
and where most but not all of the water gets in, THE TWO GEAR STICK RUBBER BOOTS.
There is also a small mushroom type breather under the seat which if the TOP part is missing will allow water in .
Other place water will get in is the Draft sensing spring assembly ,there is a large rubber cover that seals the draft spring and stops dust/water ingress.
Another place where water can get in is the lift arm cross shaft, that is where the heavy cast lift linkage fit onto the splined shaft going through the hydraulic lift cover, there are either two or four bushes inside there with large O rings to seal the shaft, through time the end play becomes excessive and the moisture can get in there
.
It has been mentioned But I cannot emphasize how important it is that all transmission housings are spotlessly clean,remove BOTH drain plugs ,located left hand side ,one near the clutch pedal and the other below the rea of the footplate,thoroughly wash out, when the pto shaft is out you will find a dead corner inside below the differential ,give this area plenty of attention .
It won,t do any harm to place one or two of the Neodymium rare earth super magnets in the bottom of the gearbox ,this will catch and hold any suspended metal .
Oil. Type of oil will be dependent on local conditions ,normally 20 w 40 engine oil, universal tractor oil should be used remembering the tractor is not a rocket ship and does not NEED oils with additives.
Hoping this helps with your decission making.
Regards.
Hutch.
Let us assume that when you remove the lift cover that you indeed find the pump damaged beyond repair ,which incidently in my 40 plus years working on Masseys I would say maybe two /three times the pumps were mechanicaly destroyed due to owners messing with releif valve pressures or other overpressure issues, asking the tractor to do something that it was not designed to do.
You will need AT LEAST This list of parts to rebuild the pump:
One Camshaft.
Two camblocks.
Two valve chambers.
Two sets of suction and discharge valves and springs.
One pump O ring kit.
One PTO Seal and O ring.
Possibly the O ring sealing sleeve on the shaft.
Most likely both pump end plates ,(which is now a complete pump)
Let me suggest the easiest way for you .
Replace the pump ,that is buy a NEW PUMP from ebay etc I have seen brand new pumps for 600 dollars.
Make sure if possible you buy a pump with a filter ,the original mark one pump did not come with a hydraulic filter Eventually Masseys supplied a filter kit that could be fitted to the original pump.
On top of the new pump you will need :
Two dowel peg gaskets .
Two dowel pegs.
A hydraulic lift cover gasket.
two Side plate gaskets.
PTO SEAL and O ring.
three" O " rings ,two for the stack pipe and one for the transfer cap that fits on top of the stack pipe ( all the same size)
and where most but not all of the water gets in, THE TWO GEAR STICK RUBBER BOOTS.
There is also a small mushroom type breather under the seat which if the TOP part is missing will allow water in .
Other place water will get in is the Draft sensing spring assembly ,there is a large rubber cover that seals the draft spring and stops dust/water ingress.
Another place where water can get in is the lift arm cross shaft, that is where the heavy cast lift linkage fit onto the splined shaft going through the hydraulic lift cover, there are either two or four bushes inside there with large O rings to seal the shaft, through time the end play becomes excessive and the moisture can get in there
.
It has been mentioned But I cannot emphasize how important it is that all transmission housings are spotlessly clean,remove BOTH drain plugs ,located left hand side ,one near the clutch pedal and the other below the rea of the footplate,thoroughly wash out, when the pto shaft is out you will find a dead corner inside below the differential ,give this area plenty of attention .
It won,t do any harm to place one or two of the Neodymium rare earth super magnets in the bottom of the gearbox ,this will catch and hold any suspended metal .
Oil. Type of oil will be dependent on local conditions ,normally 20 w 40 engine oil, universal tractor oil should be used remembering the tractor is not a rocket ship and does not NEED oils with additives.
Hoping this helps with your decission making.
Regards.
Hutch.
Biggreenavalanche
Gold Member
And G'day to you as well...served with some of your countrymen in the Gulf...good men
Thanks for the advice, will go for the "easy" and just replace with a new pump...
Thanks for the pointers on possible water entry routes, will definately give special attention to those areas during the restore...
yes, definately helped in the decision process, usually prefer "easy" processess ! LOL !
Thanks again,
Rich
Thanks for the advice, will go for the "easy" and just replace with a new pump...
Thanks for the pointers on possible water entry routes, will definately give special attention to those areas during the restore...
yes, definately helped in the decision process, usually prefer "easy" processess ! LOL !
Thanks again,
Rich
shona13
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2012
- Messages
- 367
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 148 .Chamberlain Super 70. Caterpillar D4. Chamberlain 354 FEL.Toro 268 rideon kubota L2002fel
G'day rich.
I forgot to mention how to remove the pump.
Firstly do not consider removing the lift cover by hand.
It has been suggested by and done by some of the stronger and less intelligent members of the forum,they invariably find out how heavy and awkward the cover is not to mention the sensitive parts inside that will not handle abuse to well and I am sure that there are a few out there that have found this out luckily no one was seriously injured,enough said on that.
Remove the seat.
Drain ALL of the transmission oil about six gallons.
Remove the pto shaft,if the tpl check chains are secured to the plate that locates the pto shaft remove one of the chains and then the plate, be careful it is held on by countersunk head screws that are some times hard to see, it will help to get a big Philips head screwdriver or a pry bar and push either into the hole in the pto shaft ,then lever the shaft out, make sure you remember how the old seal came out and don,t forget to clean the grove and fit the new O ring use a little grease .
Remove the lift linkage pins from the TOP where they connect to the hydraulic lift arms and fold them down and away towards the wheels this keeps them kind of out of the way.
Remove both sideplates ,the one with the transmission dipstick and the other with the pto lever, (Mark the position to help when reassembling).
Remove the transfer cap ,the one on the front right hand corner of the cover,held on by two setscrews,it may come out with the Stack pipe attached ,if not gently grab the pipe with long nose pliers and pull it out ,replace the O rings when reassembling.
Remove ALL bolts from around the EDGE of the lift cover there are five long bolts,two a bit shorter , at the rear and five the same length and ONE SHORT bolt ,Ipmortant this one goes in the right hand side just behind where the transfer cap fits,check the depth with a screwdriver,if you were to fit a bolt that is to long it will crack the transmission housing,be mindfull.
Get a piece of two to three inch angle iron and drill two holes ,one to bolt onto the FRONT bolt that holds the seat on and the other to attach a shackle for the chain block, the cover should be lifted of as level as possible just to avoid damaging the control levers that hang down, transfer the cover to a bench and turn it upside down ,this will let you work easily on the linkage if necessary.
Remove both Pump Dowel pegs,one either side of the transmission housing ,they are a kind of oval shape and held in place by two 5/16 studs/nuts...
The pump will slide rearwards about two inches to clear the splined drive shaft and lift out rear end first look out for your fingers.
Pump out start cleaning.
Reassemble .
Regards.
Hutch.
If you need the hydraulic settings just shout
I forgot to mention how to remove the pump.
Firstly do not consider removing the lift cover by hand.
It has been suggested by and done by some of the stronger and less intelligent members of the forum,they invariably find out how heavy and awkward the cover is not to mention the sensitive parts inside that will not handle abuse to well and I am sure that there are a few out there that have found this out luckily no one was seriously injured,enough said on that.
Remove the seat.
Drain ALL of the transmission oil about six gallons.
Remove the pto shaft,if the tpl check chains are secured to the plate that locates the pto shaft remove one of the chains and then the plate, be careful it is held on by countersunk head screws that are some times hard to see, it will help to get a big Philips head screwdriver or a pry bar and push either into the hole in the pto shaft ,then lever the shaft out, make sure you remember how the old seal came out and don,t forget to clean the grove and fit the new O ring use a little grease .
Remove the lift linkage pins from the TOP where they connect to the hydraulic lift arms and fold them down and away towards the wheels this keeps them kind of out of the way.
Remove both sideplates ,the one with the transmission dipstick and the other with the pto lever, (Mark the position to help when reassembling).
Remove the transfer cap ,the one on the front right hand corner of the cover,held on by two setscrews,it may come out with the Stack pipe attached ,if not gently grab the pipe with long nose pliers and pull it out ,replace the O rings when reassembling.
Remove ALL bolts from around the EDGE of the lift cover there are five long bolts,two a bit shorter , at the rear and five the same length and ONE SHORT bolt ,Ipmortant this one goes in the right hand side just behind where the transfer cap fits,check the depth with a screwdriver,if you were to fit a bolt that is to long it will crack the transmission housing,be mindfull.
Get a piece of two to three inch angle iron and drill two holes ,one to bolt onto the FRONT bolt that holds the seat on and the other to attach a shackle for the chain block, the cover should be lifted of as level as possible just to avoid damaging the control levers that hang down, transfer the cover to a bench and turn it upside down ,this will let you work easily on the linkage if necessary.
Remove both Pump Dowel pegs,one either side of the transmission housing ,they are a kind of oval shape and held in place by two 5/16 studs/nuts...
The pump will slide rearwards about two inches to clear the splined drive shaft and lift out rear end first look out for your fingers.
Pump out start cleaning.
Reassemble .
Regards.
Hutch.
If you need the hydraulic settings just shout
SDT
Veteran Member
No.
The pump comes out the top after the PTO shaft and lift cover have been removed.
That your lift does not lift is not necessarily indicative of pump problems. Indeed, more likely, you have linkage damage/adjustment or internal leaks.
SDT
Biggreenavalanche
Gold Member
Very well may be the case,however being somewhat pessimistic by nature I am preparing for the worst ! :shocked:....doing my "homework" now...
...I hope you're right though..I think ?Rich
Hello, biggreenavalanche, this may sound dumb but is the actual problem no lift at all or no power to lift the 3pt with an impliment? Will your 3pt lift without the top link connected? If so your draft control linkage has worn out. Bypass it and you should have your lift back. I did this with my 135 . Saved myself a bill and downtime.
Biggreenavalanche
Gold Member
Unfortunately the bottom won't lift at all, makes no difference whether implement is attached or not, and makes no difference whether the top link is attached not...the bottom two arms don't move...dangit...
Rich
A lot of good advice has been given and after having rebuilt my hydraulic pump I can say that it's not a difficult project for one with reasonable mechanical skills, but I'd allow a couple of days to get it done. Taking your time will greatly reduce the chances of making costly mistakes, and a service manual is an absolute must have item before you begin.
Biggreenavalanche
Gold Member
Thank you for the advice...I've ordered a manual...