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Attached is piston #2. Anyone recognize the logo on the piston? You can faintly see it in the middle left of the second picture. Also, these didn't have the 5th oil ring on the lower portion of the skirt I see in other pictures of this engine's pistons.
The head Magnefluxed out just fine. What an amazing engine. Takes a beating and just may keep on running.
Are you doing the block also, or are you sure it's just bad liners, or improper installation of the liners(MasseyWV can show post the video for you).Quote:
Originally Posted by TomSeller
Thread is here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ml#post3230813
There was a video showing how to install dry liners in a Perkins using a hammer & 2x4.
He started out with the liners cocked and at room temperature and then attempted to pound them in.
After no progress he tapped the liner to align with bore and hammered her home.
Perhaps he was the professional that rebuilt your engine???
(Professionally) rebuilt/repaired Scares me!
90cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don87
Have sledgehammer, will travel. :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by 90cummins
Sorry, yes the block checked out as well. I was a little more worried about the head, but both are fine. So is the crankshaft. Soooooo, ordering up kits, there I'd no reason this engine shouldn't run again. The oil pump is going to be replaced as well, of course. I expected cracks all over the head and maybe the block in the area of the head bolts. I didn't get a picture of the impact area on the head before it was cleaned up but that piston was pounding it pretty hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don87
I am quite sure the liners were wrong since they pushed out by hand once they started to move. I did not see any damage on the top of #3 liner, but I failed to look for imbedded wood chips. Haha. In how #2 liner broke right below the lip I thought of damage from installation but after thinking about a loose liner, combined with the liners a few thousands below the deck of the block, I am thinking the liners were working as the pistons stroked and the failure was from fatigue and heat. The liner bits stuck to the piston you see in one of the pictures must have been from heat? The oil pressure was high, I don't know what else would cause bits of liner to basically weld onto the piston. I would think the block side of the liner would get tremendously hot without oil. I would think a liner working a couple of thousands on each stroke would create significant heat, but I am not a metallurgist. The engine had been running for 15 minutes or so and was at idle.
The liners will be shop pressed in, no wood blocks and sledgehammer will be used on this old girl. I am still amazed at the #1 cylinder wall being in good shape. I am still curious why the pistons do not have the 5th oil ring below the wrist pin. Out of morbid curiosity, I will need to study up on kits available, these must have been from some cheap kit. Anyone know if there were ever AD3.152 pistons without a 5th ring?
That's good to hear.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomSeller
The liner being loose in the block prevented proper heat transfer from the combustion process from being transferred to the block.
Localized heat build-up caused the liner to weld to the piston.
Proper fit and installation will give you the long life & reliability you expect.
I would beware of counterfeit Chinese parts, the savings if any are not worth the risk.
90cummins
Good points. I am going with OEM parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 90cummins
It is up and running. What a durable thing these AD3.152 engines are. Wow, I am impressed. The engine ate an improperly installed/made liner and no real damage to the core engine parts. The oil pump had to be replaced of course and a complete overhaul kit, but all main components checked out.