MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please

   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I will remember that for the injectors. The two letter code is DA82P by the looks of it. I plan on reworking the dash and try and re-use the original gauges if I can. I think the tacometer is goosed. I had a look at it this evening and everything seems to move around in it loose but I have put it to the side and will look at it closer to the time to see if I can reconnect it and if it will work and allow it to go on from there!

I originally bought the tractor to clear some scrub land for the horses so was not really worried about the condition but now I don't have the land anymore but will use it around the yard and do a bit of topping with my major 605 topper. I have all the original papers so would like to have it back in road worthy condition and may by bring it on some road runs. There is a very strong vintage community in my region. I will post some more photos soon.

I have ordered an engine hoist and stand today to work on the engine and help with the process. I have also ordered myself a sandblasting cabinet to clean down some of the parts and should be useful with other things in the future around the place for light cleaning!
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please #12  
Your tach will (should) have a cable attached to it that connects to the engine. When the engine is running it spins that cable within the housing and therefore turn the gear in the tach to give it the reading. You can disconnect the end that hooks to the engine and remove the cable and see if you are able to spin the inner cable by hand. If not, you can soak it in lubricant to free it up. If one end spins freely and the other end doesnt you have a broken tach cable. If you are able to get the whole length of the cable free'd up where you can spin it, you can then attach the motor end of the cable in a power drill. Attach the tach end back into the tach and tighten it up. Apply power to the drill, starting off slowly and then see if it raises the needle on the face of the gauge. Most power drills will turn roughly 900 r.p.m.'s so you shouldnt do any damage to the tach. You will need to pay attention to the direction of the drill when you first start as you dont want to spin the tach backwards at high speed. If you notice the needle dropping below zero you will need to reverse the direction of the drill.

I see more cables go bad than I do tachs going bad, so you may be in luck with this repair.


Regarding the injectors, Normally there are just 2 letters stamped somewhere. I have never seen anything like DA82P on one before. When you take your pictures be sure to get 3 or 4 shots of an injector after its been wirebrushed clean.
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The tach cable was disconnected at both ends when I stripped it down. I suspect it was done to stop the hours going up!! I have put it all to the side to check at a later date and try to resurrect it to working condition. Other wise should I have to get a new one I will most likely use your idea to set the current showing on the old tack to the same hours on the new one using the drill.

I only had quick look at the injector last night with a wire brush. I can see where they screw out now with the grime and dirt gone. That was a number etched into it on the edge of the injector just where it screws onto housing, not stamped. I will have a look when a chance to clean them down. In the meantime they are soaking in solution. I have the workshop at work making me up a clamp to sit them in! Photos to follow when I get a chance
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#14  
The tach cable was disconnected at both ends when I stripped it down. I suspect it was done to stop the hours going up!! I have put it all to the side to check at a later date and try to resurrect it to working condition. Other wise should I have to get a new one I will most likely use your idea to set the current showing on the old tack to the same hours on the new one using the drill.

I only had quick look at the injector last night with a wire brush. I can see where they screw out now with the grime and dirt gone. That was a number etched into it on the edge of the injector just where it screws onto housing, not stamped. I will have a look when a chance to clean them down. In the meantime they are soaking in solution. I have the workshop at work making me up a clamp to sit them in! Photos to follow when I get a chance



ForumRunner_20140201_223458.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223515.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223539.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223552.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223552.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223657.png



ForumRunner_20140201_223552.png
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please #15  
The CT stamped just above the injector line connection is the code I was talking about.

Make sure when you have the injectors worked over that you or someone who does the setting of the opening pressure replaces the copper sealing ring under the top cap. Once you break the cap loose they will leak the biggest majority of the time when you put them back together. Likewise you will need all the sealing washers for the return line banjo bolts. There are 2 per bolt.

To speed things up with your dealer, you can unscrew the bottom portion of the injector and write down the injector nozzle number and call them with that number to make sure they are in stock or if they will have to order them. Most of the time that nozzle number will start with DBB followed by a series of numbers.

Make sure when you take them apart - the nozzle is pointing straight up. Once the cap comes off, the nozzle is just sitting there resting on two small pins. Lift it off and be careful as the center pin in the nozzle could slide out. Most of the time you have to put a good amount of pressure on them to pull them out but I would not bother with it as you are only going to write down the number on the side of nozzle printed on the bigger diameter of it. There is a spring and a spring plug down inside the injector and that is why they need to stay pointed up so they will stay in there and not hit the floor and disappear. When you go to replace the nozzle, align the two pins and make sure that the 3rd hole (small fuel hole) aligns with the hole on the injector body. You will see what I am talking about when you take one apart. Snug it back down and take them to your dealer for testing.

Nice photos of the cleaned up injectors. Looking forward to seeing this restoration come together.
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#16  
IMAG0381.jpgIMAG0379.jpgIMAG0372.jpgIMAG0371.jpgIMAG0374.jpgSo reading back over the thread I've some additional info to add. I been busy cleaning the head down using chemicals and the valve ports are coming up nice and clean bit by bit. Its no wonder the tractor giving the state of the valves and the deposit build up in the head. There was no sign on the underneath of a burnt valve. I went to measure the cylinders but can't locate my callipers not that I actually need them :)

Some additional photos showing current shape of project while waiting on engine hoist and engine stand to do some clean up work on the engine and do the clutch while it is apart.

I dismantled the front axel today also and have an issue. It is not obvious where to dissemble the axel due to the nuts being corroded and broke.... should I drill?
The nut for the crankshaft has been tampered with at some point.... what's the best thing to do with this??

Cheers
 
Last edited:
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please #17  
That is the crankshaft pulley bolt not the camshaft bolt. If you have to replace it, you will need to be correct in your wording when you talk to the dealer about the part.
You can get a die grinder (air or electric) and slowly work the outer edge of that bolt back into shape so that you can get a socket on it. I think you can do that and save it to the point that you can reuse it. If not you can order a new one for the rebuild. If you cant grind it down, I would consider using an air chisel to try and get it to spin off. It looks like someone used one to take it off and tighten it. The deep chisel mark that is still in the bolt appears to be a sign of them trying to turn it clockwise on assembly. Last thing I would try is to weld another big nut onto that nut so you can attach a socket to the outer nut to get it moving. I would try to grind it smooth first.

Post up some pictures of the axle where you are having the issue and I will see what advice I can give you about it.

I really like your progress on the restoration, you have taken the tractor apart like it needs to be to properly clean and rebuild. Yes it will take longer but your results will far exceed the hard work that you are doing now. Outstanding work and pictures.

Something else I want to add. I love the look of your shop/garage. That rock wall in the background makes for some great photos when that tractor is reassembled and painted.
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#18  
IMG_0542.jpgIMG_0541.jpgIMG_0540.jpgIMG_0539.jpgIMG_0538.jpgIMG_0537.jpgIMG_0536.jpgIMG_0535.jpgIMG_0534.jpgIMG_0533.jpgIMAG0381.jpg

Here are pictures of the axel frame. There was a screw to the front which I screwed out but it was actually broke when I removed it. In the center of the axel there seemed to be a retainer nut. This also broke when I went to unscrew it. The axel pin itself was not sitting in the housing and was rocking loose when you move the arm. I'm thinking now that it might be possible to knock out the pin out of the housing and get a new one from my dealer to replace the old one.
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please #19  
get some kroil and wet everything well before you try to tear things apart
it's the best loosen-er I have found

I also like your workshop
the keg makes it complete
 
   / MF 165 Engine Break Down - Comments welcome Please
  • Thread Starter
#20  
The keg also has a sister...... perfect for making impromptu benches :)
 
 
Top