MF 135 starter celinoid keeps frying after one start

[sch2046]

My starter went out, I took it to Napa to have it rebuilt. They rebuilt it new celinoid etc. Got it home re-installed it. It started the tractor, I drove it for about 20 min. stopped it, tried to start it again and it was dead. I took the starter back out, back to Napa, new celinoid, got it home, reinstalled it, again, same thing. It started the tractor once and dead. Do you guys have any idea what could be causing this? Could Napa have a bad bunch of celinoids or is my tractor a nightmare..........

 

[David Devuono]

Sounds a bit like my tractor was operating last summer. After using it and when it was Hot, I could not restart it. I was having low oil pressure while running too. Anyway turns out diesel was diluting the oil due to leak in the fuel pump diaphram. All fixed up now, though I do jump start it accross the starter selinoid more often then with the key these days. If you have not rebuilt the fuel lift pump in the past 20 years, do it.

 

[sch2046]

It turns out, after going through 3 selinoids, my starter isn't dis-engaging and burning up the selinoid. No idea what to do, I may try a new ignition switch......confused

 

[Soundguy]

does that 135 use a solenoid kicked out drive gear, or a centrifugal drive gear. int he sencond setup.. power is merely applied to the starter motor, and once engine starts, overspeed of the drive gear spirals it back in.. inthe first situation, if it is staying powerd, it will stay engaged.

check how your setup is and if it is staying powered.

hokup test lamps prior to start so you have visual cues to look for.

 

[sch2046]

It is making a whine noise when starting up and then the selinoid heats up and smokes the it is done. I don't know how to hook up lamps, can you point me in the right direction on the test lamps.

Is there an easy way to figure out which set up is have?

 

[Soundguy]

test lamps are just a light bulb with a gator clip and a metal probe.. nothing special.

tractors with a start relay only use the spin out method. ( ford pre 65 series )

units with a soda sized cap on the side of the starter usually near the nose are the mechanical solenoid kickers

 

[David Devuono]

If you start the tractor by jumping from the 12V terminal on the starter to the selinoid you bypass the switch if you think the switch is not releasing. Funny thing is my 135 will only crank for 2-3 seconds and the starter disengages with a whirring sound. Usually starts with one or two seconds on the starter. You could have a faulty start switch. You can buy another universal starter switch for 10 bucks.