MF 165 Starting query

   / MF 165 Starting query #1  

dmark1975

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
46
Location
Dublin, Ireland
Tractor
MF 165
Hi all,

I have got back to doing some items on the rebuild project and when I started tractor up today. (Started without issues) It ran for a while and after about 10 minutes it shut off like it had run out of fuel. (All fuel issues checked) When I tried to start it hardly turned over and had hissing noises out of engine as per uploaded video. Does anyone know what causes this and what can I do to fix it?

I performed a compression test today and cylinders 1,2,4,were at 310psi and cylinder 3 was 340psi. I did not perform a wet test.
 
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   / MF 165 Starting query #2  
G'day the hiss you can hear is compression but I am not sure where it is coming from, the engine seems tight as the starter is drawing huge current to try and turn it over ( watch the battery lead jump as it cranks). Did it have plenty of coolant and oil while running? What was involved in your rebuild? Comp figures seem slightly low but it could be down to the slow cranking rate, how easy is the engine to turn by hand with the injectors out?


Jon
 
   / MF 165 Starting query #3  
update please
 
   / MF 165 Starting query
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Will update next week Redman. Have not got back to it yet. A week of holidays next week to do some proper investigation works.
 
   / MF 165 Starting query #5  
Has the guts in the exhaust fallen loose and blocked the pipe? I had that happen on a 178 once. The exhaust was pulled off and tractor ran like normal.Got new exhaust.
 
   / MF 165 Starting query
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I remembered I never changed fuel filters ....... so that along with the tank vacuum caused by the wrong tank cap it could be the issues causing the problems. But until I have new dome nuts( see my other thread!) I can't check the theory out! I'm going the drop the sumps while I'm at it just to have a look into the engine to see if there are any other obvious issues.

Its clear a novice should never do a complete rebuild on an engine without practice!!!
 
   / MF 165 Starting query #7  
Don't be intimidated by lack of experience . These engines are just over sized meccano sets. They are old tech and simple to work on.
1) label pipe work (blank sticky labels) eg fuel return, tank to #1 filter etc
2) group bolts, washers in same container eg bonnet,head, water-pump etc
3) mark Top-Dead-Centre on crank shaft and injector pump BEFORE disassembling.
4) wedge the front axle so it can't pivot
5)The sump is a structural component,ie it's HEAVY.
I pulled a 135 engine down and reassembled with out drama, and with little experience. I was only 19, and it was good experience.
 
   / MF 165 Starting query
  • Thread Starter
#8  
UPDATE

Received parts from courier today.

Have installed and replaced the dome nuts (with plenty of lock fluid!) and set in place using clutch gauge and have set spacing's on clutch. Put new bearing on thrust bearing (the right way around) and set clutch plates using clutch alignment tool. Ready to reassemble back together, that will be tomorrows job! Have also got new fuel lines to replace the old old ones and new fuel filters and also got new air filter set and installed them too while I was at it. I also got new temperature gauge and oil gauge as the old ones never moved so need to see what's going on in that department :tractor:

Hopefully tomorrow this bit will be over and set about checking out inside the sump area and checking out the leak on the front crankshaft seal. Will be checking for water in the oil sump!!! I have set the flywheel at TDC also and will check all settings as I progress forward to the front before restarting. I see it as checking as you go this time :D

Thanks for reading. Will have to take some pictures as I go.
 
   / MF 165 Starting query #9  
Hello dmark1975, re the crankshaft seal, if it is like the 135 then there are 2 types, a "rope" type seal (in 2 pieces) it is tricky to get in properly. The 2nd type is an upgrade of the rope type and easier to fit. I don't think they are inter changeable either.
You may want to do the rear seal as well as you need to remove the crankshaft anyway.
 
   / MF 165 Starting query
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Ok so my exams are over and have got time to look at issues.

Crankshaft seal was ok ...... crankshaft nut was not tight so that's why it seams it was leaking. Tightened up and hopefully sorted.
Clutch sorted and clutch pedal set. Clutch checked twice before refitting.....

Checked TDC on flywheel and checked crankshaft key position. Wheels were off by 180 so all set in position now and hopefully situation is under control, otherwise it will probe require a new rebuild!!!!!!!!!

Battery charging and checking all the little pieces are in place..... will let ya all know if it starts :rolleyes:
 
 
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