Loader GC2310 FEL very weak

[TSO]

Dual acting cylinders are usually self bleeding.

My manual lists no bleeder screw, or procedure for doing so.

Right ... But when you change your hydraulic fluid and filters, there's an opportunity for air to get into the system. On my Massey, there is a bleeder screw on the hydraulic pump (or near it, can't remember exactly) that you can loosen to bleed air out of the system.

 

[DMW]

Does the bucket curl and lift show the same symptoms? If it's just the lift, try uncoupling the quick disconnects and reconnect ensuring they are fully seated. Sometimes they look ok, but may not be fully engaged. Otherwise it sounds like air is getting into the system. Suction line may be damaged, or strainer not properly installed after oil change. Both are easily accessible by jacking up the back and removing the left rear tire.

 

[crazyjncsu]

Thanks guys! Next time I get out there I'm going to test/document pressures first.

Then check quick connects (I've checked the ones at the FEL already but not backhoe).

Then check suction screen.

If those don't work I'll try new fluid.


I think the curl is weak too, but it's not as noticeable. I can't tell if there is the flop in the lift because I can't lift it with my arms. I'll try to tell by pushing down on the ground.

 

[ray66v]

Thanks guys! Next time I get out there I'm going to test/document pressures first.

Then check quick connects (I've checked the ones at the FEL already but not backhoe).

Then check suction screen.

If you do change the fluid, put the MF Permatran in it.

 

[crazyjncsu]

I checked quick disconnects and checked several fittings for hoses I had recently replaced. Everything seemed fine.

I removed the suction filter bolt. The suction filter had become detached, and was kind of floating around in the chamber. It looks like the previous owner had broken it somehow and tried to fix it with JB Weld.

I let all of the fluid drain out and then put the bolt back in until I get the new suction screen from jacks (part 4265208M91) ... The fluid had lots of little air bubbles in it.

I also took the hydro filter off and let out another little bit of fluid. The inside of the filter looked clean. I think the end of the filter had imprinted "DK11".

I'm still not 100% certain the suction filter contributed to the issue (even though it should certainly be addressed) ... I'm thinking the JB Weld signifies the previous owners willingness to cut some corners, and likely the fluid is just under-spec. Is fluid foaming common? Is there any way to quickly test the fluid to determine the type or the presence of an anti-foaming agent? I'm not crazy about driving an hour each way to my dealer for permatran ... but I will if necessary.

 

[TSO]

Permatran compatible is fine. I believe it's "Permatran III" compliant. Go to your local TSC or similar farm supply store and buy it there.

 

[DMW]

If a Kubota dealer is closer, SUDT2 (not the UDT or SUDT) is an excellent (better IMO) alternative to Permatran . Try not to use a cheaper "meets permatran standard" house brand oil. They may meet the minimum requirements, but suffer when used in a subcompact. The SCUTs are a lot harder on oil than larger tractors. The oil will probably be in the tractor for the next 5 years., so a few extra dollars are well spent.
In your picture of the strainer plug/suction line, I believe there is an o ring that fits between the tractor and the suction line (can't really see in picture), and another on the plug that goes against the suction line.

Don't worry about any oil left in the cylinders, it will have a negligible effect when you refill the reservoir.

 

[TSO]

If a Kubota dealer is closer, SUDT2 (not the UDT or SUDT) is an excellent (better IMO) alternative to Permatran . Try not to use a cheaper "meets permatran standard" house brand oil. They may meet the minimum requirements, but suffer when used in a subcompact. The SCUTs are a lot harder on oil than larger tractors. The oil will probably be in the tractor for the next 5 years., so a few extra dollars are well spent.
In your picture of the strainer plug/suction line, I believe there is an o ring that fits between the tractor and the suction line (can't really see in picture), and another on the plug that goes against the suction line.

Don't worry about any oil left in the cylinders, it will have a negligible effect when you refill the reservoir.

Most of these oils come from the same tank. I believe that Kubota oil is from Valvoline. My "Motorcraft" oil is from Conoco Phillips. Massey doesn't refine their own special Permatran oil. Don't get me wrong, I like using quality fluids. But, I haven't read anything suggesting that the store brand hydraulic fluid, that is listed for Permatran, or any other brand spec, is less than adequate.

And, I was considering swapping mine to Amsoil, until I learned about this.

 

[DMW]

Most of these oils come from the same tank. I believe that Kubota oil is from Valvoline. My "Motorcraft" oil is from Conoco Phillips. Massey doesn't refine their own special Permatran oil. Don't get me wrong, I like using quality fluids. But, I haven't read anything suggesting that the store brand hydraulic fluid, that is listed for Permatran, or any other brand spec, is less than adequate.

95%+ of the time I would agree with you.The higher cost of premium fluids is usually due to the additive package that is added to the "generic" base oil. They can dramatically increase the effectiveness of a lubricant. SubCUTs , due to their small sump size, operate at higher temps than most tractors , less time to get rid of entrained air, water contamination due to hot/cold cycle. The additives add a lot of goodness to the oil that allows it to function longer, with better qualities.

 

[TSO]

95%+ of the time I would agree with you.The higher cost of premium fluids is usually due to the additive package that is added to the "generic" base oil. They can dramatically increase the effectiveness of a lubricant. SubCUTs , due to their small sump size, operate at higher temps than most tractors , less time to get rid of entrained air, water contamination due to hot/cold cycle. The additives add a lot of goodness to the oil that allows it to function longer, with better qualities.

I'm sure that there is probably a certain point in the duty cycle life of hydraulic fluid in these machines where what you are saying makes sense, in regards to excessive heat and wear. I probably put more hours on my CUT in a year than the majority of owners on this forum will do in 5 or 10 years. And I probably also get my fluid to a higher temperature as well. That's because I use mine commercially and often for hours and hours at a time. But even then, I don't think that I can get the oil hot enough to break it down to the point of losing protection in the manner it was designed for. Maybe if I ran it 20 hours a day and never gave it a chance to cool down, maybe then that would apply. I just don't see it happening, especially at the rate that most users work their machines.

You are correct that additive packages are proprietary to brand, and each package is touted for specific benefits. But I doubt that an adequate additive package is lacking from the "store brand" oils that are spec'd for specific compatibility.

Here's a picture of the label on the bulk hydraulic fluid I use. Clearly, it meets numerous manufacturers base specs, and it also claims to have an advanced additive package as well.