Loader DL120 won't dump

[Wayne Clagg]

Hi gang. My son in law has a 1643 with a DL120 loader. The bucket quit rolling out some months ago, it would pull the engine down and blow the relief valve when the handle was moved to the roll out position and after several attempts to dump it would work fine until the next time it was rollback. Didn't do it every time. Finally the hose between the valve under the platform and quick connect let go. He took it back to the dealer and after they had it 2 weeks told him it that it was bad roll cylinders (!). They also pointed out that the loader was only under warranty for 12 months but since he claimed to have trouble with it at 11 months they would repair under the warranty.
Now we are almost exactly a year later but just a few hours of operation since that repair and it's doing the exact same thing. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what was done to fix it? I feel there is an issue in the valve assembly preventing the fluid from leaving the opposite side of the cylinder piston when the valve is moved to the roll out position. If anyone has any ideas to save a little time troubleshooting this issue I'd appreciate the input.

 

[TSO]

I had been having a problem with my DL130... When getting the fluid hot during loader work, my "curl" circuit would stop curling. I went thru the checklist and after disconnecting and reconnecting (re-seating) the quick-disconnect coupler for that hose, it was working again. But it kept happening and it turns out that that male-side hose connector was malfunctioning.

These are 1/2" flat face couplers, and the male one was pushing the flat poppet to the side, causing the connection to be open. Must be a spring under that poppet that was bad.

Anyhow, these connectors are common, made by Safeway, and I picked up a new one at TSC ($8) and swapped it on the hose end... And all is well.

Not saying it is your problem too, but worth checking.

 

[Wayne Clagg]

Believe it or not that is exactly what the problem turned out to be! I switched the hoses to reverse the lever position for roll out and then the bucket wouldnt curl. Pulled the quick connects apart and sure enough the male end was jacked up side ways. Thanks for your your response!

I had been having a problem with my DL130... When getting the fluid hot during loader work, my "curl" circuit would stop curling. I went thru the checklist and after disconnecting and reconnecting (re-seating) the quick-disconnect coupler for that hose, it was working again. But it kept happening and it turns out that that male-side hose connector was malfunctioning.

These are 1/2" flat face couplers, and the male one was pushing the flat poppet to the side, causing the connection to be open. Must be a spring under that poppet that was bad.

Anyhow, these connectors are common, made by Safeway, and I picked up a new one at TSC ($8) and swapped it on the hose end... And all is well.

Not saying it is your problem too, but worth checking.

 

[TSO]

Believe it or not that is exactly what the problem turned out to be! I switched the hoses to reverse the lever position for roll out and then the bucket wouldnt curl. Pulled the quick connects apart and sure enough the male end was jacked up side ways. Thanks for your your response!

No prob...and sounds like the dealers mistake got you news cylinders too!

 

[Poke]

I'm having a problem with my DL 120 bucket leaking down. When I'm bush hogging I have to curl the bucket up every 200 yards or so. I wonder if this could have something to do with it also?

 

[TSO]

I'm having a problem with my DL 120 bucket leaking down. When I'm bush hogging I have to curl the bucket up every 200 yards or so. I wonder if this could have something to do with it also?

Could be...

 

[jsftractors]

TSO is correct, if the engine was laboring it is only going to be an issue with the couplers or valve itself. The couplers on these are sourced, let's just say cheap, and the leak down is the couplers or valve. The dealer was wrong, the cylinders were not the issue and are not the issue now. The loader valve and couplers are covered under the tractor warranty, not the loader so if you still have warranty left, act quickly. If your fortunate and it is the couplers, you will probably be better off just paying for quality couplers and be done with it.

 

[rparks101]

Believe it or not that is exactly what the problem turned out to be! I switched the hoses to reverse the lever position for roll out and then the bucket wouldn't curl. Pulled the quick connects apart and sure enough the male end was jacked up side ways. Thanks for your your response!

Same thing occurred on my MF DLT120 Loader. See image of female body poppet valve issue. Took some time to find a replacement; however, here is what I found along with cross reference part numbers. Prices range approximately $40 for the complete coupler or approximately $20 for each body or male tip.

Complete Coupler Body Male Tip Size Thread Manufacture
S40-3P S45-3P S41-3P 3/8 3/8-18 Safeway P=Poppet Valved Models

4200-3P 4250-3P 4010-3P 3/8 3/8-18 Parker / Pioneer

N/A G94121-0606 G94111-0606 3/8 3/8-18 Gates


Hope this helps; cheers!

 

[MaineGuy1]

Same thing occurred on my MF DLT120 Loader. See image of female body poppet valve issue. Took some time to find a replacement; however, here is what I found along with cross reference part numbers. Prices range approximately $40 for the complete coupler or approximately $20 for each body or male tip.

Complete Coupler Body Male Tip Size Thread Manufacture
S40-3P S45-3P S41-3P 3/8 3/8-18 Safeway P=Poppet Valved Models

4200-3P 4250-3P 4010-3P 3/8 3/8-18 Parker / Pioneer

N/A G94121-0606 G94111-0606 3/8 3/8-18 Gates


Hope this helps; cheers!

View attachment 594665

Yes, I just went through the same thing. Your picture shows the tit not centered. You can center it with a screw driver and it might work for a little while, but it will fail again. If you replace the female you should replace the male, as the tit being off centered it could scar the male coupler. I just replaced all 8 of mine, female and male. My dealer says he thinks it happens from shocking the loader, bouncing it harshly. If it happens to me again I may try to find a better coupler, maybe flat face couplers?