Bushog Adjustments help needed

[bumperm]

As SPYDERLK says, the numbers on your 3 point control lever are for reference (when the 3 point is "positioning" better, and not "inching" not so better). It's common to have a sliding lock plate that your can move up so that the lever will not go down beyond a set position while mowing etc. This allows you to lift the mower deck and then immediately put it back down to the precise set position again without hassle.

There is another way to accomplish this, and that it to install a couple of limit chains on your 3 point lift arms. These chains are then adjusted to allow the mower deck from to only go down to the desired level when you drop the 3 point. For top and tilt equipped tractors, this also mitigates any problem you might have with leak down.

 

[TractorHelp101]

Kenneth S. I have attached two pictures of the tractor and bush hog. Maybe you all can tell me where to set the rear-wheel bolts.
I will wait to get instructions from you all before I attempt trying something wrong.


thanks
Sig

 

[LD1]

Kenneth S. I have attached two pictures of the tractor and bush hog. Maybe you all can tell me where to set the rear-wheel bolts.
I will wait to get instructions from you all before I attempt trying something wrong.


thanks
Sig

Follow the directions I gave in post 3.

Ignore the typos I posted that from my phone.

 

[Gator6x4]

Just my two cents worth. If that was my Bush Hog I would find a flat level area lay a short piece of two by four on the ground and use it to hold the rear up which would allow me to adjust the tail wheel using the adjusting hole to where the tail wheel was making good solid contact with the ground. This will give you a tilt to the front and make the rear run higher than the front when in use.

Now to the top link. I do not see in the photos you post a u shape piece of metal on the bush hog to attach your top link to instead of attaching directly to the ridged upright brace on the bush hog. If you use the bush hog like this damage will likely occur either to the top link which will bend or the tractor will be damaged where the top link attaches to the tractor. When the rear of the bush hog is forced up this will transfer a tremendous amount of leverage force through the top link and onto the tractor.

I personally would replace the top link with a chain if I could not find a u piece of metal to hook the top link to which would allow the bush hog to float up and not damage anything. Very easy to do assuming you have the rear tail wheel already adjusted, hook to the bush hog with the lift arms and raise it to the desired cutting height. Now put a pin in the top link hole on the tractor and on the bush hog, measure the distance and fabricate a piece of chain that is taunt with the bush hog setting in the cutting position. When you lift up the three point the bush hog will then lift off the ground.

 

[LD1]

Now to the top link. I do not see in the photos you post a u shape piece of metal on the bush hog to attach your top link to instead of attaching directly to the ridged upright brace on the bush hog. If you use the bush hog like this damage will likely occur either to the top link which will bend or the tractor will be damaged where the top link attaches to the tractor. When the rear of the bush hog is forced up this will transfer a tremendous amount of leverage force through the top link and onto the tractor.

Not going to damage the tractor. IF the metal straps are weak, they will bend. IF they are stout, the whole bushhog will raise/float up. Lots and lots of bushhogs out there this very same way.

 

[Kenneth S]

Just my two cents worth. If that was my Bush Hog I would find a flat level area lay a short piece of two by four on the ground and use it to hold the rear up which would allow me to adjust the tail wheel using the adjusting hole to where the tail wheel was making good solid contact with the ground. This will give you a tilt to the front and make the rear run higher than the front when in use.

This is how I would do it ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Here's my tractor with just the lower lift links hooked to the shredder. I use the upper link to hold a bucket with some tools in it, until I put a tool box somewhere on the tractor.

 

[MMagis]

Not going to damage the tractor. IF the metal straps are weak, they will bend. IF they are stout, the whole bushhog will raise/float up. Lots and lots of bushhogs out there this very same way.

This is exactly right. I don’t know where the idea came from that without a flexible link a brush hog will self-destruct at the first little dip in the terrain. I back mine up some very steep banks, there is enough flex in the whole “system” that the rear wheels are on the hill before the brush hog even comes close to binding up. It’s the way it was made, as are thousands that have been made over the last 4 decades.
To the original poster, it looks to me you’re trying to use a brush hog to do the job of a finish mower. If you need to drop the cutter that low, plan on digging in the dirt occasionally. If a brush hog worked well that way, there would be no such thing as a finish mower.

 

[MMagis]

Not going to damage the tractor. IF the metal straps are weak, they will bend. IF they are stout, the whole bushhog will raise/float up. Lots and lots of bushhogs out there this very same way.

This is exactly right. I don't know where the idea came from that without a flexible link a brush hog will self-destruct at the first little dip in the terrain. I back mine up some very steep banks, there is enough flex in the whole "system" that the rear wheels are on the hill before the brush hog even comes close to binding up. It's the way it was made, as are thousands that have been made over the last 4 decades.
To the original poster, it looks to me you're trying to use a brush hog to do the job of a finish mower. If you need to drop the cutter that low, plan on digging in the dirt occasionally. If a brush hog worked well that way, there would be no such thing as a finish mower.

 

[TractorHelp101]

This morning I did finally get the bush hog set like I want it to cut and not scalp the ground.
LD1 instruction were the way I went and it took me a hour to do it but I adjusted It, cut a few turns and only one scalped area where a **** red ant bed was. I think my problem was not taking my time.
To all of you guys who gave me input thanks a lot....I am a complete stranger to all of you but you all stepped up to help me without question. Again thanks guys.

Sig.

 

[LD1]

Thats what this forum is all about.

Get help when needed, help out when you can:thumbsup: