help with breaks

[Eteda]

I have a MF 250. the right break locked up. I drained out the water and let it sit a week thinking it needed lubricant to be level. since the new tire had It un level. I'm trying to figure out what kind of breaks I have and how to fix it. the manual is un clear since I don't know much about tractors. I've had it for about 8 years. I use it for putting in rolls of hay to the animals and planting / fertilizing fields. My research tells me not to move it or I can risk busting the housing. I'm ok with that it is parked. However while draining the water the petal came back up and the breaks un stuck during the process. thinking it was fixed I used it to put out fertilizer. I didn't go half an hour and both breaks are squealing leaving a small one inch trench on the ground at the outer edge. the oil started shooting out of the dip stick hole before I got it to the house. I cant pull it with the truck cause I cant drive both at the same time, I have no one to help me and the truck is in the shop. So now I want to try and fix her. I've got till September when its time to put in rye grass again. I have some knowledge of basic tools and how to use them. I have a small air compressor and some basic tools along with several cheater/breaker bars. I'm guessing it don't have disk breaks and their not out by the tires it appears. It looks as if the breaks are in the middle of the rear casing near the PTO. However are they wet or dry. How do I tell before I tear into this thing so as to have parts for repair on hand. How do I know if it is an orchard model or not. I bough her second hand. I need all the help I can get. Is this something I can do. I replaced the wheel bearing on my truck and that didn't seam to hard at all. I think lifting and stabilizing the axel will be the hardest part of the hole thing. I need to change the fluids every year I just learned. I know my serial number both to the tractor and the Perkins 3cyl diesel.

 

[countrybumpkin]

You have "wet" disc brakes, they are inside the axle housing next to the transmission case, find a Massey Ferguson dealer or a place on line and order a Shop Manual for your tractor. This will give you all the steps to remove and replace them. Sounds like you got the hydraulic oil to hot due to the brakes dragging, and it began to boil out.

 

[Eteda]

countrybumpkin
You have "wet" disc brakes, they are inside the axle housing next to the transmission case. Thanks CB
Actually I have figured out that the break levers(#7) are rusted in all three places and will not allow the breaks to release. I've worked both of the break rod pins loose and disconnected them on the right side. I will have to do one side at a time. In the manual MF-42, page 62, fig. 163, the top pin in the break lever is rusted in place. I have nothing to apply heat. I've been using PB blaster. I've tried every thing I can think of including a C clamp on the lever and back side of the pin to push it out. I cant get a break puller jaw on it or a crowbar under the head, just a small screw driver and I've busted enough knuckles on the dang thing. Can or should I take the break lever support (#5) off and deal with it. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the seal(#4) any way, it looks dry rotted around the edges. Will fluid come gushing out from behind the break lever support? If it dose, I just catch it in a container for proper disposal and put some new in after I am finished with the breaks I'm assuming.
It was the engine oil not the hydraulic fluid that was shooting out of the dip stick hole. If over heating was the issue it would not have stopped when the engine was killed, It would have continued to boil. I should have mentioned that, sorry I didn't think of it at the time. The Wheel turns now with no noise or binding.
The primer bulb diaphragm is busted allowing diesel in the oil chamber it seams. I might as well give her a new paint job while I've got the fenders off. Is their any think else I should do while I'm fixing things in this area?

 

[irvingj]

Can't help you much with the brakes, but if you have "engine oil shooting out of the dipstick hole" on a diesel engine, it sure sounds like a case of severe blow-by, perhaps a compromised head gasket or broken piston rings. Sounds like something is allowing cylinder pressure (most likely) into the crankcase. You ought to check that out.

 

[boggen]

free online parts manual
AGCO Parts Books -> click view books as guest => select MF from drop down, and enter your model number

would agree with countrybumpkin, you need to get the shop/service manual. it should give much better exploded view diagrams and how to tear it apart and put it back together along with testing stuff along the way.

 

[Eteda]

I have a shop/service manual. Quote" In the manual MF-42, page 62, fig. 163, etc., And I have an owners operator's manual. What I don't have is experience. This is my first time to have to do anything to the breaks. I does not mention or show in the shop manual if their is a gasket of some kind between the brake lever support and the axel housing. Thank you Ryan for the info. I'm gona check it out any way. Maybe its a different book that will have more information in it. I cant find much on the MF-250 on U tube so perhaps I should be videoing this for others. I plan of getting the top hat gaskets Thursday locally from the parts store if they have them. If not I will order on line. I think once I can get that contraption on the work bench it will just pop right out with little effort. Ill clean it all up and I want to be able to put it all back tighter ASAP. I need to change the fluid any way. It hasn't been changed that I know of in 8 years. none of the fluids have. I didn't know about anything except the oil. But its due in July. Might as well do it now and get them all at once. I want to de rust the engine and paint it grey again. The engine degreaser purple power took all the paint off it last summer. What product can I clean the gunk off the engine that wont take off the paint? Any tips you got would be helpful. I have not ever painted any thing for high heat and rust resistance. I am most confused about what type or brand of paint to use for the engine, housing and body. I've have a good idea about the hood and fenders. Thank you guys for all your help.

 

[Eteda]

Ryan that's what I was looking for. I did find that their are gaskets behind the brake lever housing. Common sense tells me that their would be. It even told me of the size of cotter pins in the brake linkage. Thank you so much. I looked to see if I could order one of the books but haven't found it yet. Ill keep looking! I also found the paint codes I had just posted about. I found all the decals to restore her with also. I've been researching trying to figure out how the swinging draw bar hooked up and all the parts I needed to buy for it for over a year now. Their it was all the pieces plain as day. thank you so much. :thumbsup:

 

[rjmack]

It was the engine oil not the hydraulic fluid that was shooting out of the dip stick hole.

as well as the things Irvingj posted,

perkins uses a lift pump which is similar to a gasoline engine mechanical fuel pump.

many engines are designed such that if the diaphragm in the lift pump fails, fuel will drain directly into the crankcase. this has happened to me more than once, and once on a perkins in a welding machine, on diesel engines.

downside is a big mess and perhaps some issues with oil seals, upside is crankcase gets a good washing out.

I would look into this as quickly as possible. :2cents:

 

[Eteda]

thank you rjmack, yep the lift pump is the issue on that one. how hard are they to rebuild? unfortunately this will be my first time to rebuild any thing mechanical. if I don't succeed the first time I guess their will be a second and third in the same week, LoL. Im probably better off replacing the lift pump on the tractor and playing with the rebuild on my spare time after I get it up and going. so I shut off the fuel and drain the crank case. Neither manual mentions anything about how and what to clean the crank case with after I drain it. So I'm guessing a few weekly oil changes are in order? hum.... more research. I will be draining it today, but it has set for a week with diesel in the oil. so I don't know if the rope seals will be good still. Do I replace them anyway. that would be my choice if it is something I can do without having to dismantle the whole engine. I don't have a shed to park it under out of the weather. :thumbdown:

 

[rjmack]

If you are certain it's the lift pump, the best thing to do is probably just bolt a new/rebuilt unit in there and fill the engine back up with oil/new filter. I wouldn't worry about flushing the crankcase out, that's already happened.

once you run it for a while, you'll get an idea what kind of shape the seals are in.