Rear remotes on a GC2310

[DannyLobster]

Anyone done it yet?
This sounds like the way to go for me to add a grapple and other dreams.
My understanding is I may be able to add some valves and connect them to the hoses for Back hoe when the Hoe is removed. This sounds wicked easy, but I think I would loose their function when the hoe is reattached. Plus This sounds too easy. Is there a way to keep the remotes function when the hoe is attached or attach the hoe throught he remotes?

This will be a new adventure for a newbie so keep it simple and try to be specific.

BTW, I already understand the pros/cons of using the remote vs electric over hydraulic for a grapple. My thoughts are the the remote will add greater functionality at half the cost.
Dan\

[kennyd]

Danny,
If you have a PowerBeyond loop at the rear of your machine for a backhoe, the you can certainly plumb in a 1 or 2 spool valve for rear/front remotes. And yes, you could still use the backhoe at the same time. This very thing has been discussed here on TBN hundreds of times, and yes-once you understand the basic theory of how the hydraulics work, it can be "wicked easy" as you say.

Now, as far as being "half the cost" of a electric diverter or electric solenoid valve...that my friend is just wishful thinking. I may a little cheaper, but you also have to buy hoses that run from the rear of your machine all the way to the front of the FEL, and add more QD's if you need to take the loader off...

[archerynut]

Sounds like a great idea... Keep the other 2310 owners informed on what you decide to do.

[DannyLobster]

Originally Posted by archerynut

Sounds like a great idea... Keep the other 2310 owners informed on what you decide to do.

Here is what I found so far.
There is a good thread on the orange tractor site site discussing how to do it on a BX

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/k...ear+remotes+BX

As these are similar to the MF I suspect I can follow this guidance with at least one change. The referenced valve only handles 5 gpm. My manual says the GC pumps 6.8 GPM. It seems that I would need a valve able to handle the higher volume. There seems to be a big jump and the next level seems to be 20 or 25. There is one 10 GPM with joystick control, but it did not appeal to me. I like simple.

The prince seems like a mid priced model which it would do the trick ($155)
Surplus Center Item Detail

The power beyond as reccomended is another $25

The late mad hatter seemed to like the cessna. There is a cessna 30 GPM with no handles for about 10 bucks more.
Surplus Center Item Detail

It seems I would then need hoses and quick connects.
10 foot of 1/4 hose seems to be around $25. I would need two so thats $50
Surplus Center

I still need to learn the difference between a NTP and JIC etc. (HINT HINT)
and whatever other fittings I may need.

I would also appreciate any thoughts on whether or not to get the float option? Am I correct that I need a double action? Is open center OK?

Any thoughts on the valve selection? or ideas where to look for a smaller version?
So far it seems like about $300 with shipping.

As I said, I am a newbie. Any advice is appreciated. I like the rear remote because I will be able to add a top link for my BB as well.

Would I then be able to somehow run my hoe through the remote with the power beyond? or would I need to unplumb the remote?

Dan

[kennyd]

As these are similar to the MF I suspect I can follow this guidance with at least one change. The referenced valve only handles 5 gpm. My manual says the GC pumps 6.8 GPM. It seems that I would need a valve able to handle the higher volume. There seems to be a big jump and the next level seems to be 20 or 25. There is one 10 GPM with joystick control, but it did not appeal to me. I like simple.

According to the Massey website, the hydraulics only flow 4.1GPM, are you including steering in your numbers? There are stackable valves available from Prince in the 10-12GPM range if you really feel the Cessna 5GPM valve is to small.

All the other valves you listed are HUGE and HEAVY with large ports that would require lots of adapters, taking up more valuable space and costing more $$$.

It seems I would then need hoses and quick connects.
10 foot of 1/4 hose seems to be around $25. I would need two so thats $50
Surplus Center

The best thing to do is to get the valve mounted first, so you can get custom hoses made to fit.

I still need to learn the difference between a NTP and JIC etc. (HINT HINT)
and whatever other fittings I may need.

JIC fittings are the best to use over NPT, they are easier to isntall and will be less prone to leaking.

Would I then be able to somehow run my hoe through the remote with the power beyond? or would I need to unplumb the remote?

As I said before, you can leave the remote plumbed. You would take the PB line From your FEL to your new VALVE, then to the BH, then back to the RETURN where it is now. When you take the BH off, you just need QD's to complete the loop.

Your total cost will be at least $500.00 for all this.

[DannyLobster]

Thanks for the insights Kenny. Sorry for my ignorance, but we all gotta learn somehow.

Originally Posted by kennyd

According to the Massey website, the hydraulics only flow 4.1GPM, are you including steering in your numbers? There are stackable valves available from Prince in the 10-12GPM range if you really feel the Cessna 5GPM valve is to small.

According to my manual, is the following. If I subtract the Steering from the main it does come out to 4.1. Does this mean I can use the smaller valve?

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
Steering System
Type Hydrostatic
Pump .•.........Transmission-mounted gear pump with flowdivider;
Maximum Output 7.5 litre/min (2.0 US gal/min)
Pressure Relief Valve 8339 kPa (1209 psQ
Main Hydraulic System
Pump __ Transmission-mounted gear pump
. Maximum Output 23.1 litre/min (6.1 US gal/min)
Pressure __ Relief valve setting 13244 kPa (1920 psi)

Originally Posted by kennyd

JIC fittings are the best to use over NPT, they are easier to isntall and will be less prone to leaking.

Two very appealing qualities to me!!

Originally Posted by kennyd

As I said before, you can leave the remote plumbed. You would take the PB line From your FEL to your new VALVE,

This would be the existing PB feeding the BH ? Correct?

Originally Posted by kennyd

then to the BH,

This would be from the new PB sleave on the new valve? Correct?

Originally Posted by kennyd

then back to the RETURN where it is now. When you take the BH off, you just need QD's to complete the loop.

This is where I get confused as I have not seen one of these valves installed.

My impression was the PB, Return and sump lines from the tractor were all somehow connected to the valve.

Originally Posted by kennyd

Your total cost will be at least $500.00 for all this.

Even with the extra 50 for Cessna valve, that is 150 more than I come up with. What am I missing in my calculation?
Dan

[kennyd]

According to my manual, is the following. If I subtract the Steering from the main it does come out to 4.1. Does this mean I can use the smaller valve?

I think your implement flow is 4.1GPM, the the 5GPM Cessna Compact valve is the one to use.

JIC fittings are the best to use over NPT, they are easier to install and will be less prone to leaking.

Two very appealing qualities to me!!

Take a look HERE for a good description of fittings. You can also look around their site to see what the different fittings look like.

This would be the existing PB feeding the BH ? Correct?

This would be from the new PB sleeve on the new valve? Correct?

This is where I get confused as I have not seen one of these valves installed.

My impression was the PB, Return and sump lines from the tractor were all somehow connected to the valve.

OK, if you take the BH off, you have a PB "LOOP" that must be connected back together correct? You can just plumb the new valve into this "LOOP", you do not need the PB sleeve for the valve.
You can take the PB line from your FEL valve to feed the new valve, then you will have to find a return port on your tranny to dump the fluid back to the tank.

Keep in mind that I am not familiar with your machine, just hydraulics in general-so you will have to decide exactly how to do this. Can you get a shop manual?

You can read the many threads that MadReferee posted about adding valves to Kubota tractors, that should also help you understand the theory.

Even with the extra 50 for Cessna valve, that is 150 more than I come up with. What am I missing in my calculation?

There will be fittings, and hoses that will add up to $150 very quickly. There is nothing about hydraulics that inexpensive!

[DannyLobster]

Originally Posted by kennyd

Take a look HERE for a good description of fittings. You can also look around their site to see what the different fittings look like.


There will be fittings, and hoses that will add up to $150 very quickly. There is nothing about hydraulics that inexpensive!

OK So I got my valve. Glad I took your advice and waited. It is smaller than I expected. I am thinking About adding it up front right near the loader valve.

I am compiling my list of fittings and realized I do not know the type which exist for the loader valve. Is anyone aware, are these JIC??

I am hoping to add a Tee to the sump return and tie the new valve into the return from the loader. Any issues or concerns with that approach?

Thanks
Dan

[JerryG]

If I was going to setup remotes on a GC, I would use this valve.
Surplus Center Item Detail

[2310 guy]

I want to do the same thing but plumb in a foot valve for the grapple. I also don't know where to plumb the valves.

The tractor is at my parents house right now so I can't just snoop around, maybe next weekend.

This is how I plan on plumbing the grapple.


Anyone with info, comments, or sugestion, please speak up.

Sorry if I hijacked your thread Dan. I believe we both want the same end result. Good u-built grapple for less cost than the name brand.