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  1. #1
    Silver Member
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    Jul 2011
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    159
    Location
    NW Ohio and SE Michigan
    Tractor
    Oliver 880, Ford 8N, Ford 9N, Farmall Super C, MF 205, Ford 4400 FEL, Ford 4500 FEL/BH, Cat D-6 Dozer(1957)

    Default Farmall Super C ?

    I can't seem to find the oil dipstick. Also not sure where one can add the oil to the crankcase.
    Stupid of what???? I have only one view of the tactor for viewing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_0067-jpg  

  2. #2
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    49,417
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    -coil-jpg


    i've uploaded a pic of my C when I was rebuilding it.

    in yellow, circled, on the left side of the oil pan.. there are 2 knobs going into the oil pan. they look like they are at the same level.. but they are actually a different level.

    bottom one is low oil level... top one is the fill to.

    easy way to do it is to add oil to engine till it dribbles from top valve, then close it. to check oil before running, cack lower vlave. should get a dribble there. if so.. it has oil. if not, add oil till it dribbles from TOP valve. always tighten both.

    now. circled in blue , going into the valve cover is a lil cap a bit smaller than a soda can.

    that's where you put oil IN the tractor for the crankcase.

    i reccomend a 15w40 C/S rated oil.
    souNdguy

    sent from my NOKIA LUMIA

  3. #3
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    1,452
    Location
    Up State S.C.
    Tractor
    AC WD 34 hp/3500 lbs MF 261 60 hp/5380 lbs

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    I've never had a Super C only an M so, I'm guessing and going by memory from nearly 30 years back. I suspect that red cap sticking out of the hood infront of the muffler is the crank case breather and you add oil there. My M didn't have a drip stick. It had two petcocks in the oil pan. I was told that when the top one was open and oil ran out the crankcase was full. If you buy the tractor don't take my word for it, please get an operators manual and repair manual the repair manuals for the lettered Farmalls are relatively inexpensive.

    Woops, I see Sound Guy explained it while I was typing and even threw in a picture. Way to go, Sound Guy.
    Stuck

  4. #4
    Gold Member travlitt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    362
    Location
    Texas
    Tractor
    Branson 6640C and Branson 2400

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    It doesn't have a dip-stick..Check oil level on the left side of tractor using the 2 little thumb screws. Oil fill cap is next to muffler.

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    159
    Location
    NW Ohio and SE Michigan
    Tractor
    Oliver 880, Ford 8N, Ford 9N, Farmall Super C, MF 205, Ford 4400 FEL, Ford 4500 FEL/BH, Cat D-6 Dozer(1957)

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    Sound Guy: Thank you for the quick response and the info. I had to remove the battery yesterday which is encased in a steel box and had to remove the gas tank in order to lift it out straight up. Did they do that to prevent theft out in the fields? Also learned that it is a + to ground for the battery. I note you have a 8N on your profile. Does it also hook + to ground for the battery. The reason I ask is that a good friend who runs a commercial electric shop like starters/alternators/generators etc. He emphasizes to me the need to polarize your voltage regulator whenever you disconnect the battery or change it. Thought I would pass that on. Another close friend a full time farmer was not aware of this.
    Thanks Againdocrocky

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    49,417
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    the full time farmer probbaly wasn't aware of 'it' because it's a -lie- / myth.

    when you shut down your tractor, the generator stops making power, and there is a thing called a cutout relay. it OPENS and breaks the commection from the generator armature to the battery.

    thus EVERY time you shut your tractor down, the generator is disconnected from the battery

    shame on the generator shop guy for not knowing his trade.

    Now, that said.

    if you rebuild a generator and swap field pieces.. or let it setup a long time, or drop it a few times, or want to change battery polarity, then it IS necescary to polarize the GENERATOR. NOT the regulator. Regulators DO NOT need polerization.

    ford 8N left the factory positive ground. All gasser fords pre 65 left the factory as 6v positive ground. All diesel fords 59+ left the factory 12v and negative ground.

    nice thing about generators and mechanical regulators is that you can run them as either positive or negative ground. the generator doesn't care. on a very old regulator there is a / may be a minor difference in contact material on the contacts depending on if it was designed for + or - ground.. however in the big game.. it don't matter.

    hook up battery, and poerize genny for new polarity and go.


    Quote Originally Posted by docrocky View Post
    Sound Guy: Thank you for the quick response and the info. I had to remove the battery yesterday which is encased in a steel box and had to remove the gas tank in order to lift it out straight up. Did they do that to prevent theft out in the fields? Also learned that it is a + to ground for the battery. I note you have a 8N on your profile. Does it also hook + to ground for the battery. The reason I ask is that a good friend who runs a commercial electric shop like starters/alternators/generators etc. He emphasizes to me the need to polarize your voltage regulator whenever you disconnect the battery or change it. Thought I would pass that on. Another close friend a full time farmer was not aware of this.
    Thanks Againdocrocky
    souNdguy

    sent from my NOKIA LUMIA

  7. #7
    Veteran Member
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    Jan 2009
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    2,464
    Location
    Carroll, Ohio
    Tractor
    IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    Also that battery will slide out the side of the battery box. I take them out the left side. Remove the two bottom bolts of the bat. box, and the one that holds that side piece to the steering post, at the top of where the gauges and switch is. Remove the one Touch-Control, control rod, and it should lay up on a rock shaft. Pull the side panel of the battery box off, and slide the battery out. And I always put never-seize on the bolts, 'cause you never know when you may need to pull it again.

    Just put a new battery in one of mine last Thursday to be ready to make hay, and also finally got a HD set of battery cables on. NAPA only had 2/0 cable, so went ahead and got them made. Cost me $80.00 for the new cables, but no more lazy starter..!!

  8. #8
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    159
    Location
    NW Ohio and SE Michigan
    Tractor
    Oliver 880, Ford 8N, Ford 9N, Farmall Super C, MF 205, Ford 4400 FEL, Ford 4500 FEL/BH, Cat D-6 Dozer(1957)

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    Soundguy: Thanks for the info on the oil level ports? I finally got around to reassembling the fuel system after I rebuilt the carb which was a mess from neglect etc. I cleaned the tank, which had absolutely no rust and replaced the sed bowl and filter after cleaning the valve under the tank.. It was fun reattaching the fuel line from the sed bowl to the carb. Would you believe she started right up after hardly a few spins of the starter. Next question: does the carb have adjustments? At full throttle she seems to be straining/missing/coughing? It has been 3 or 4 years since she last ran. Also, what spark plugs are needed? I could not remove the ones in already since they are larger than the standard 13/64. I recently found the cultivators for the Super C and am eagerly waiting to get the tractor moving. Also, should lead additive be instilled into the gasoline/fuel to protect the valve seats?
    Thank You

  9. #9
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    i'm away from my books, adn the machine is at the farm.

    if no one answers before I get back to it I'll post the plug info.

    maybee someone will hav ethe info for you before then.

    if it was a ford I'd know off the top of my head.
    souNdguy

    sent from my NOKIA LUMIA

  10. #10
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    2,464
    Location
    Carroll, Ohio
    Tractor
    IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans

    Default Re: Farmall Super C ?

    Champion D15Y on the spark plugs, or cross them to your favorite brand. Champions used to have a coating on the electrodes that would cause carbon build up. Not sure if they do anymore, as I seem to have bought an almost lifetime supply when our local Farm & Fleet sold out, and had the D15Y's on sale for like 59 cents ea.
    A cleaning with a sandblaster type spark plug cleaner will take it off. I usually run them until they carbon up, then blast them, cleaning thoroughly afterwards, and reinstall.

    On the spark plug removal, I use a 3/8" deep socket with thinner sidewalls, as most of my 1/2" sockets have a tendency to bind between the plug, and head.

    I am confused as to how you rebuilt the carb., but missed the High Speed/Main jet, and idle jet..?? But to answer you question, yes there are two adjustments... Larger jet is located on the front of the bowl and sets at approx. a 45 angle. It should either have a screw head, or a "T" type head to use your fingers to adjust. Sounds like it could be backed out a little. Just have to play with it and see.

    The idle adjust is on the top half of the carb. Find the screw with a spring under the head of it. Tha's it...

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