jgreen302
New member
Recently my family purchased a farm with a Satoh S650G Bison tractor in poor maintenance. With no real knowledge of who what or how, I searched the internet and came upon Tractorbynet.com and found a lot of usefull information. My research on all this took 8 or more hours of searching through lots of threads and posts and slowly I collected a lot of usefull information. I have compiled that long search into a single post, all info, all right here type thing. Below you will find all the regular maintanence parts info I could find and the confirmed part numbers I used. Based on this information I turned our old and busted into smooth and performing. I completed this maintenance today, updated all my notes and pasted it all below. I have also attached a zip file with all the uploaded scans of the Bison wiring diagram, parts explode sheets, and anything else I got that was usefull.
IF it wasn't for all the other folks here and their help I could not have done it.
With this information, regular simply tractor maintenance can be done locally just about anywhere in the US.
If you need anything beyond this, very seriously consider giving Bill a call. You can find his info below, his phone, his website. I cannot thank Bill enough for his time and help, and I have his number on record in our maintenance notes.
I have included quotes from many others who have posted information I found very helpfull. Most of this is NOT mine to provide, simply a condensing of all the contributors here. Because of all their help, I have a well running tractor. In return, I am making this post to help others.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Satoh Bison S650G
Tune up and oil change: $110.25 (Ignition, oil and air filter)
"they told us it was a 25HP Mazada engine # S253534
year between 1970-1972"
My Motor Plate States:
60.23 Cu In. 27HP/2800RPM
"I have the original Mfg. brochure for Satoh S-650G
It states Max output 25BHP
Max PTO output 23 @ 2800 rpm
Max PTO torque 46.9 ft.lb./rpm @ 2400 rpm " - from other postings
Bill @ Valley Power - Call toll free 1-800-609-5110
Ignition:
Spark Plugs: Champion (N4C) - NAPA 803C (confirmed works well)
Wires: NAPA 700172 (solid core) and 700168 (resistor core - needed if running a radio ect)(confirmed)
Custom short length sets are also available at Tractor Supply and you can length to suit.
Distributor Cap: NAPA EP710, Borg Warner# C 585 (NAPA part number confirmed)
Rotor Button: NAPA EP711 (confirmed (but you have to push back the metal tongue to get it on)
Points: NAPA CS360, Borg Warner# A 529 - new points set @ 18 thousanths
Condenser: NAPA EP300, Borg Warner# G 658
"I finally found a source of the Pertronix electronic ignition for the Satoh S650G.
It is Genesse Products, Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment
Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment
The part # is MA-141" -other posting
Air:
Air Filter: NAPA 6270(confirmed), New Holland 85512806(confirmed), Luber-finer LAF8113
Smaller tractors including Beaver and Bison:
Vaned cylinder, 7.250" long x 3.281" body diameter (4.218" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA 6270: Luber-finer LAF8113
I checked the LAF1275, which is what my D2000 II (Bull clone) would take, and it looks like the right filter.
Larger tractors including Bull: Vaned cylinder, 10.375" long x 4.085" body diameter (5.147" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA 2276: Luber-finer LAF1275
Lubricants:
Motor Oil Change:
Oil: 10/30 or 10/40
Oil Filter: NAPA 1390 (short)(confirmed); Puralator Plus L34631 (long)(confirmed), Luber-finer PH2865
Approximately 4 quarts with short, 4 1/2 quarts with long.
***The hydraulics and the rear end are separate reservoirs on the S650G.
Transmission:
(Capacity 0.92gal - 3.5 lit)
Check the transmission level on the left side of the transmission by your left foot.
With a split reservoir, I am not sure if 80w gear oil or hydrolic oil is used.
Hydrolic:
JD type 303 is generally considered a standard to emulate, but not the only oil you can use.
Buy a tractor hydraulic oil that is compatible with JD type 303. Universal Tractor Fluid is one,
International Hytran is another. Bill - satohparts.com
Hydraulic oil in the reservoir under the seat. On some tractors with an aftermarket seat, the cap
can be covered by the seat. I had to remove my seat to get to this fill spot.
Check the hydraulic oil level on the left side of the case.
Older tractors had a sight glass.
Newer tractors have a level plug.
Steering:
Steering Wheel w/cap: 17 1/2 Diamator, 3 1/2" Dish, 36 splines.
Exhaust:
Muffler Replacement: What I did was call Bill@http://www.satohparts.com/. His practical advice was to drop the
exhaust at the manifold and take it in to a muffler shop and have them do it up right. Good advice.
I however needed to replace the muffler and was short on time. So what I did was simply drop the exhaust at
the manifold (4 12mm nuts removed after warming them up with run time and lots of lubricatant). My problem was the
muffler flange studs were stripped, and the muffler was shot. I removed this, took the rest into the auto parts store,
and found a 1 7/8" to 2 or 2 1/4 adaptor. I then took the adaptor into Tractor Supply and found a Case muffler in stock that
had a 2" inlet. The 1 7/8ths adaptor was close but not dead on. I cut it with a saws all twice on the end cutting straight down
to give it four slots so it could squeeze with a clamp. 2" to 2" with a 2" clamp is a no brainer.
I used a saws all and just cut the exhaust in front of the flange area for the muffler. Bolted it all together and ran into a
problem. The muffler sits under your left foot and is tight with the left break lingage. My choice in muffler was close in width
but much longer in length. I solved this with a saws all by cutting the exhaust pipe further up. It all fit in nice and snug.
I can now replace the muffler at any time with a 2" clamp and a 2" inlet exhaust muffler. The Case muffler is a common stock item
at Tractor supply so continued maintenance will be no problem.
IF it wasn't for all the other folks here and their help I could not have done it.
With this information, regular simply tractor maintenance can be done locally just about anywhere in the US.
If you need anything beyond this, very seriously consider giving Bill a call. You can find his info below, his phone, his website. I cannot thank Bill enough for his time and help, and I have his number on record in our maintenance notes.
I have included quotes from many others who have posted information I found very helpfull. Most of this is NOT mine to provide, simply a condensing of all the contributors here. Because of all their help, I have a well running tractor. In return, I am making this post to help others.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Satoh Bison S650G
Tune up and oil change: $110.25 (Ignition, oil and air filter)
"they told us it was a 25HP Mazada engine # S253534
year between 1970-1972"
My Motor Plate States:
60.23 Cu In. 27HP/2800RPM
"I have the original Mfg. brochure for Satoh S-650G
It states Max output 25BHP
Max PTO output 23 @ 2800 rpm
Max PTO torque 46.9 ft.lb./rpm @ 2400 rpm " - from other postings
Bill @ Valley Power - Call toll free 1-800-609-5110
Ignition:
Spark Plugs: Champion (N4C) - NAPA 803C (confirmed works well)
Wires: NAPA 700172 (solid core) and 700168 (resistor core - needed if running a radio ect)(confirmed)
Custom short length sets are also available at Tractor Supply and you can length to suit.
Distributor Cap: NAPA EP710, Borg Warner# C 585 (NAPA part number confirmed)
Rotor Button: NAPA EP711 (confirmed (but you have to push back the metal tongue to get it on)
Points: NAPA CS360, Borg Warner# A 529 - new points set @ 18 thousanths
Condenser: NAPA EP300, Borg Warner# G 658
"I finally found a source of the Pertronix electronic ignition for the Satoh S650G.
It is Genesse Products, Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment
Genesee Products - Electronic Ignition for Agricultural and Industrial Equipment
The part # is MA-141" -other posting
Air:
Air Filter: NAPA 6270(confirmed), New Holland 85512806(confirmed), Luber-finer LAF8113
Smaller tractors including Beaver and Bison:
Vaned cylinder, 7.250" long x 3.281" body diameter (4.218" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA 6270: Luber-finer LAF8113
I checked the LAF1275, which is what my D2000 II (Bull clone) would take, and it looks like the right filter.
Larger tractors including Bull: Vaned cylinder, 10.375" long x 4.085" body diameter (5.147" diameter including vanes),
equivalent to NAPA 2276: Luber-finer LAF1275
Lubricants:
Motor Oil Change:
Oil: 10/30 or 10/40
Oil Filter: NAPA 1390 (short)(confirmed); Puralator Plus L34631 (long)(confirmed), Luber-finer PH2865
Approximately 4 quarts with short, 4 1/2 quarts with long.
***The hydraulics and the rear end are separate reservoirs on the S650G.
Transmission:
(Capacity 0.92gal - 3.5 lit)
Check the transmission level on the left side of the transmission by your left foot.
With a split reservoir, I am not sure if 80w gear oil or hydrolic oil is used.
Hydrolic:
JD type 303 is generally considered a standard to emulate, but not the only oil you can use.
Buy a tractor hydraulic oil that is compatible with JD type 303. Universal Tractor Fluid is one,
International Hytran is another. Bill - satohparts.com
Hydraulic oil in the reservoir under the seat. On some tractors with an aftermarket seat, the cap
can be covered by the seat. I had to remove my seat to get to this fill spot.
Check the hydraulic oil level on the left side of the case.
Older tractors had a sight glass.
Newer tractors have a level plug.
Steering:
Steering Wheel w/cap: 17 1/2 Diamator, 3 1/2" Dish, 36 splines.
Exhaust:
Muffler Replacement: What I did was call Bill@http://www.satohparts.com/. His practical advice was to drop the
exhaust at the manifold and take it in to a muffler shop and have them do it up right. Good advice.
I however needed to replace the muffler and was short on time. So what I did was simply drop the exhaust at
the manifold (4 12mm nuts removed after warming them up with run time and lots of lubricatant). My problem was the
muffler flange studs were stripped, and the muffler was shot. I removed this, took the rest into the auto parts store,
and found a 1 7/8" to 2 or 2 1/4 adaptor. I then took the adaptor into Tractor Supply and found a Case muffler in stock that
had a 2" inlet. The 1 7/8ths adaptor was close but not dead on. I cut it with a saws all twice on the end cutting straight down
to give it four slots so it could squeeze with a clamp. 2" to 2" with a 2" clamp is a no brainer.
I used a saws all and just cut the exhaust in front of the flange area for the muffler. Bolted it all together and ran into a
problem. The muffler sits under your left foot and is tight with the left break lingage. My choice in muffler was close in width
but much longer in length. I solved this with a saws all by cutting the exhaust pipe further up. It all fit in nice and snug.
I can now replace the muffler at any time with a 2" clamp and a 2" inlet exhaust muffler. The Case muffler is a common stock item
at Tractor supply so continued maintenance will be no problem.
