Iplayfarmer
Super Member
Too bad Viktor Bout is in jail now. Maybe you could have bought some arms from him. :laughing:
(Sorry, I couldn't help myself)
Angry Beaver project (FEL build)
- Thread starter Freakingstang
- Start date
Too bad Viktor Bout is in jail now. Maybe you could have bought some arms from him. :laughing:
(Sorry, I couldn't help myself)
fosterchild420
Bronze Member
i guess that joke predates me being on here.
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
284 International
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,466
- Tractor
- International Harvester 284
Check what the output of your pump is by checking the data plate. I have a Yanmar 1401D that is the equivalent to your tractor. It has a loader plumbed into the tractor hydraulics, powered by a 4cc/revolution pump, which works out to 2.75 GPM at 2600 RPM. It is just about perfect. I have 1.75" cylinders, too. If it were slightly faster it wouldn't be bad, but it would lose some precision. Mine is very precise, and the speed is ample, too. If your pump output is similar, you will probably be satisfied with how the tractor pump operates your loader.
OP
Freakingstang
Gold Member
According to the specs in the manual it is 3.84 gpm at 2700 rpm... Now those were brand new specs, not 32-35 year old tractor with unknown hours.... the aux pump I have, I believe is 5.5 gpm at 2K rpm.... I thought that might be better for faster cylce times, but I would have to fabricate a mount for the front clutch pto and run more lines and resevoir, etc...
I want to use it like three weeks ago, but don't want to rush it and half *** it...
284 International
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,466
- Tractor
- International Harvester 284
Were it mine, I would run the loader off the tractor hydraulics. I think you might find the auxiliary pump to have too much flow, honestly. It may lug the engine, be too fast, or both. If I had 1/3 more volume and speed, that would be as fast as I could reasonably manage.
The geometry of our loaders may differ, along with other factors, of course, so it's not a straightforward conversion. But I think you will like how it works. And if you don't, you could use the tractor hydraulics to power the old valve and run a set of auxiliary functions: a grapple and rear remotes, a top and tilt rear hitch, or some other useful productivity booster, and add your crankshaft driven pump later.
I think packaging the auxiliary pump with the front PTO will be challenging. I would like to see how you run that.
Good luck, I've really enjoyed watching this build.
The geometry of our loaders may differ, along with other factors, of course, so it's not a straightforward conversion. But I think you will like how it works. And if you don't, you could use the tractor hydraulics to power the old valve and run a set of auxiliary functions: a grapple and rear remotes, a top and tilt rear hitch, or some other useful productivity booster, and add your crankshaft driven pump later.
I think packaging the auxiliary pump with the front PTO will be challenging. I would like to see how you run that.
Good luck, I've really enjoyed watching this build.
OP
Freakingstang
Gold Member
ordered hoses, fittings, a compact loader valve from surpluscenter.com
I took an old breather tank off of an old generator that was being sent out for scrap. It hold just shy of two gallons. I have to weld in some bungs for the return from the joystick, then another for the return to the sump. I' going to install a breather cap for the fill. Its just held in place by wire ties for mock up, it will get new brackets on it and bolted to the uprights. did a little painting in the last week or so also. I just need to find a hydraulic tap to tie into the tractors hyd system. I orded a used hyd tap from west kentucky tractor parts and they sent me this three piece remote tap valve. they claimed it came off of a beaver and basically told me I was retarded because I couldn't make it work (last couple pics)
I took an old breather tank off of an old generator that was being sent out for scrap. It hold just shy of two gallons. I have to weld in some bungs for the return from the joystick, then another for the return to the sump. I' going to install a breather cap for the fill. Its just held in place by wire ties for mock up, it will get new brackets on it and bolted to the uprights. did a little painting in the last week or so also. I just need to find a hydraulic tap to tie into the tractors hyd system. I orded a used hyd tap from west kentucky tractor parts and they sent me this three piece remote tap valve. they claimed it came off of a beaver and basically told me I was retarded because I couldn't make it work (last couple pics)
Dr Dave
Platinum Member
Nice job so far!:thumbsup:
OP
Freakingstang
Gold Member
I got all the hydraulics plumbed, other than tying in the adapter because I need to get three longer bolts. I mounted the valve to a plate that bolts on the upright. Everything is tucked out of the way from heat, any moving parts, and high vibration areas. I used about 2 1/2' of Parker hose wrap on the hoses going along the boom arms.
I originally laid out the hoses to tee them at the center of the boom cross member, but I didn't like the way it looked or the way the lift cylinder hoses laid. I ended up running down to a napa truck store and had a 1' hose made up with a jic 90 on the valve end for clearance issues. From there it's tee'd for both the boom up and boom down. I made sure the short hose came into the center of the tee, and same length hoses so both cylinders (hopefully) lift equally. All the other hoses are 3/8 NPT 4000psi hoses from Surpluscenter.com. I used swivels on both ends for ease of installation. The bucket curl/dump circuit is just two hoses because I only have one cylinder for now. The feed to the joystick valve follows the factory routing along the floorboard up to the Hyd tap on the side of the case. The pressurized return follows My fabricated crossmember then run along the rear subframe and comes up in a hole at the rear of the driver side floorboard.
I flushed the system and filled with fresh Hyd fluid and am ready to put her in some dirt! I just need to install some rubber coated hose clamps and some wire ties to finish up the hose installation.
The muffler cover is getting coated... Plenty of clearance from heat..
Clearance on the hood is tight, but no rubbing anywhere. Hoses are succeptable to chaffing, so you should pay attention to any areas where a hose is contacting a metal surface.
And while I was at it, I painted some other things...
[/QUOTE]
I originally laid out the hoses to tee them at the center of the boom cross member, but I didn't like the way it looked or the way the lift cylinder hoses laid. I ended up running down to a napa truck store and had a 1' hose made up with a jic 90 on the valve end for clearance issues. From there it's tee'd for both the boom up and boom down. I made sure the short hose came into the center of the tee, and same length hoses so both cylinders (hopefully) lift equally. All the other hoses are 3/8 NPT 4000psi hoses from Surpluscenter.com. I used swivels on both ends for ease of installation. The bucket curl/dump circuit is just two hoses because I only have one cylinder for now. The feed to the joystick valve follows the factory routing along the floorboard up to the Hyd tap on the side of the case. The pressurized return follows My fabricated crossmember then run along the rear subframe and comes up in a hole at the rear of the driver side floorboard.
I flushed the system and filled with fresh Hyd fluid and am ready to put her in some dirt! I just need to install some rubber coated hose clamps and some wire ties to finish up the hose installation.
The muffler cover is getting coated... Plenty of clearance from heat..
Clearance on the hood is tight, but no rubbing anywhere. Hoses are succeptable to chaffing, so you should pay attention to any areas where a hose is contacting a metal surface.
And while I was at it, I painted some other things...
techwrtr2
Platinum Member
I will be interested in how that valve works, I've thought of replacing the non-float valve on my beaver with one like that. The joy stick would offer a greater measure of similarity to my JD
I'm not sure I like having the hoses on the outside of the lift cylinders, my concern being that they could bet damaged there. I believe on mine they are on top.
For your exhaust, you could always build a custom header like I did, but get a better muffler. The stack is nice too.
I'm not sure I like having the hoses on the outside of the lift cylinders, my concern being that they could bet damaged there. I believe on mine they are on top.
For your exhaust, you could always build a custom header like I did, but get a better muffler. The stack is nice too.