Mitsubishi/Satoh 1510

[buckyboy]

I helped a guy move and he gave me a Mitsubishi/Satoh 1510. Tires are in great shape, like new. Has not been started in a few years so I got a battery cleaned the fuel filter, drained the old stuff, after tickling the injectors a bit she fired right up and runs great.

There were a lot of wires disconnected to what appears to be switches for the drive train that is not engaging. No manual but it seems there is a "clutch in/clutch" on the right hand side of the transmission. This engages as can roll it back and forth feel it engage to the gear box. I have never come across an electronically controlled clutch, but have checked my fuses and played with the wiring with no luck. I don't know how the clutch itself is engaged with the clutch pedal. Do you press it once? The throw for the switch is less than 1/4". No manual for this bad actor and have not been able to find but will continue searching. PTO doesn't engage either. Any advice for this newbie to tractorbynet.com is appreciated.

 

[284 International]

I would be very surprised if the main clutch is electric. It would be the first time I have heard of such a thing on this type of machine. However, it is possible the tractor may have an electric clutch on a mid or front mounted PTO.

What is the problem, exactly? Will the tractor drive normally? Is the clutch frozen? Does the clutch pedal have a full range of motion?

 

[buckyboy]

You would think that it was not electronic but is something I have not seen. I tested the senders one that you are looking at that is triggered by the clutch pedal, the throw on that is about 1/4" and pushes the button on the sender. On the side of the transfer case is a "clutch on, clutch off" lever that also has a sender. Again I tested these with the multimeter.

The "clutch on, clutch off" lever does engage the wheels, I feel it when I roll it back and forth. In any case no manual makes it tough.

The only thing I can think of is that the clutch pedal when pressed sends current to electric actuator that engages the gear to the drive train. In any case it does run good and if I could get a repair manual would be happy camper.

Gonna try to find one before I take it apart. thnx

 

[duwem]

Thats just a switch that does not allow the tractor to start unless you depress the clutch....

 

[buckyboy]

That clutch pedal presses a button that has wiring to actuators built into the transfer case/transmission. Weird deal!

The only purpose of that pedal is to move that button. There is not tie in/connection to the transmission.

 

[evan price]

Looks like the clutch pedal (on the left) is in the locked position with the storage lock. The pedal won't come up unless you flip the lever off if it is stuck. The switch is just a neutral start switch to prevent starting in gear. Somebody probably did a rig job on the wiring.
The lever on the right is most likely the hi-lo range selector. Sticks up at an angle and throws roughly 90 degrees total. If it is in the middle between hi and lo it is not engaged and seems like neutral.

 

[284 International]

Duwem and Evan have this one solved, I think. Just to verify, you could try it with the key off. You'll find it does it even with the battery disconnected. :thumbsup:

 

[buckyboy]

Yes they do and thanks so much to everyone for their patience, but this little critter had me befuddled. People who owned this must have removed this travel lock, I took a flat head and moved the bottom of the arm outside of the stop tab and the clutch now engages. I don't get the purpose of the "travel lock". In any case the hydraulics had problems I took the filter out and the fine mesh had disintegrated. The previous owner said the hydraulics quit working, no wonder. I found an excellent supplier for parts in Apple Valley, CA where the tractor was purchased, his name is Ron and knows what the heck is going on. His number is 760 240 1610. Any suggestions for which hydraulic fluid would be appreciated as well. thnx again

 

[284 International]

Run a "universal tractor fluid" or something like that which meets John Deere 303 or International Hy-tran specifications. There is a multitude of other ratings, but all are about the same. I buy mine at Wal-Mart in 5 gallon pails, unless I find a special coupon somewhere else.

Engine oil is 15W-40 diesel oil, but I like the Shell Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. My reason for that is the lower viscosity oil makes startup easier for my machines lacking glow plugs, and because it it works in literally everything I own: a CBR sport bike, a KTM dirt bike, my pickup, the boat, lawn mower, walk behind tiller, etc. I have too much equipment to maintain as it is, so it is handy to know that one engine oil is universally applied. Point being, I'm not shilling for the Rotella, it's just affordable, accessible, and simplifies my life.

If your machine is 4 wheel drive, the axle takes some kind of 90 weight gear oil. I think I use 85W-90 or something. You can also run the hydraulic fluid in there, but I'm more comfortable with a gear oil. There may be separate drains for each knuckle and the differential. Make sure the lube points get grease, too. The center pivot for the front axle really takes a beating.

Take some pictures of your tractor to share!

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

[snip] People who owned this must have removed this travel lock, I took a flat head and moved the bottom of the arm outside of the stop tab and the clutch now engages. I don't get the purpose of the "travel lock". [snip]

The purpose of the clutch lock is to keep the clutch disengaged during long periords of storage to prevent the clutch shoes from "sticking" to the pressure plate which they can do. Whoever stored the tractor there knew what they were doing.