need help finding a HYD tap adapter for a Satoh Beaver

[Freakingstang]

got it done today at lunch.

I started with this junk cylinder....

I cut the end off...

I utilized the eisiting 5mm hole, but enlaged it slightly... I used a porta band to cut it to shape. Took a bunch of measurements...

All the work was done by me with a porta band saw, a cheapo drill press and a little patience. I ground down a drill bit flat, and gave it just enough angle (2-3 degrees) to cut, but not leave a taper like a conventional drill would for the o-ring seats.

This would have been a 20 minute project is I had a mill... I had to get creative holding it down after I already cut it to shape...

so.... here is the flow. all we did was add a loop coming from the pump to the three point.

 

[techwrtr2]

Now does it work?

 

[Kernopelli]

This is the one I was sent. They assured me numerous times that it would work but the bolt hole pattern is about twice the diameter. Any idea what tractor this one fits?

That is the same adapter that fits the Mitsubishi made Case IH 244/5 and 254/5 tractors, I have attached a diagram from Messicks CIH parts website for a IH 254 adapter.......identical to yours. The 254/255 is VERY similar to my MTE2000D. The 244/245 would probably cross over to the MT180(X) tractors for this part. I will bet there are other Mitsubishi models it fits as well but that's speculation.

Are you sure it won't work on your Beaver? I would think as long as the hydraulic ports line up the bolt hole size doesn't matter too much, just so it torques down enough to seat the orings. I cut my pressure line to plumb in my hydraulics but the adapters are much cleaner. Interested in selling yours if it doesn't fit the Beaver?

Opps, just noticed the full diagram didn't attach.....oh well, you get the idea. You can see the diagram at Messicks 254 INTERNATIONAL DIESEL TRACTOR under "Hydraulics"

 

[Freakingstang]

Now does it work?

I wanted to get it fired up tonight. I got all the hydraulics plumbed and got called out on a service call. I don't have long enough bolts to install it. So it will have to wait til tomorrow to fire up the loader for the first time.



And kernopelli, the one I bought isn't even close. None of the Hyd ports match up. There is three holes on the one they sent me and muons only has two. Even if the ports would line up, there is no way to attach it to the tractor. The ports on the wrong one are outside of the bolt pattern on mine... I would have made it work if it were possible..... There were supposed to issue a return call tag for it. I have about 200 bucks in it. If I have to pat to ship it back because of their mistake, I'll gladly sell it.

 

[lilbever]

got it done today at lunch.

I started with this junk cylinder....

I cut the end off...

I utilized the eisiting 5mm hole, but enlaged it slightly... I used a porta band to cut it to shape. Took a bunch of measurements...

All the work was done by me with a porta band saw, a cheapo drill press and a little patience. I ground down a drill bit flat, and gave it just enough angle (2-3 degrees) to cut, but not leave a taper like a conventional drill would for the o-ring seats.

This would have been a 20 minute project is I had a mill... I had to get creative holding it down after I already cut it to shape...

so.... here is the flow. all we did was add a loop coming from the pump to the three point.

i am assuming that the pressure in port is coming from the PB port on your valve. Where are you going to hook up the low pressure line to the tank. I have a s373 that i am trying to re-plumb because the original owner did not have a valve with PB so i am going to put the correct valve on but don't know where to attach the third line from the valve.

 

[Kernopelli]

And kernopelli, the one I bought isn't even close. None of the Hyd ports match up. There is three holes on the one they sent me and muons only has two. Even if the ports would line up, there is no way to attach it to the tractor. The ports on the wrong one are outside of the bolt pattern on mine... I would have made it work if it were possible..... There were supposed to issue a return call tag for it. I have about 200 bucks in it. If I have to pat to ship it back because of their mistake, I'll gladly sell it.

$200...ouch! That's $50 more than the current new OEM part price Messicks gets for the part WKTP sent you. I hate to hear about your issues with West KY tractor Parts. I have had great interactions with them and recommended them many times. Even had a coworker make the trip down there last week and pick up some parts for his MT300. Personally, I WOULD pester them for a refund...that is clearly the wrong part from what you described. I knew immediately what it was and would fit as soon as I saw the pic, just wasn't sure exactly what models it is not compatable with.

Great project and work, been following the whole FEL build. Keep it coming!

 

[duwem]

Valley Power makes these aftermaket out of billet aluminum.

Not cheap, but available.

 

[Freakingstang]

Valley Power makes these aftermaket out of billet aluminum.

Not cheap, but available.

I know.... I thought 200 bucks for a used part was steep.

For 500 bucks that Valley charges, I was out nothing trying to make my own.... I had one failure because the NPT thread once tightened down made it leak under pressure....I was off a couple thousandths. I made another one in about an hours work. No sophisticated tools just a little ingenuity and determination.

And it works.... I'm looking at having some made to see what the price would be. I'm pretty confident I can make a little cash on them and still make them affordable to anyone that wants to put hydraulics on their 30+ year old tractor.

 

[Volvoman]

Did you ever investigate having some more of these made? I am needing one for my S373d to control a newly acquired front blade with up/down and left/right positioning. If not, would a pattern be available so they could be made on a homeshop lathe and mill? Vvm.

I know.... I thought 200 bucks for a used part was steep.

For 500 bucks that Valley charges, I was out nothing trying to make my own.... I had one failure because the NPT thread once tightened down made it leak under pressure....I was off a couple thousandths. I made another one in about an hours work. No sophisticated tools just a little ingenuity and determination.

And it works.... I'm looking at having some made to see what the price would be. I'm pretty confident I can make a little cash on them and still make them affordable to anyone that wants to put hydraulics on their 30+ year old tractor.

 

[duwem]

I was under the impression that Valley Power makes them out of a new billet hunk for $178 or something. Not a used part. Call them.

My most recent purchase has the trianglular block and had an add on control valve mounted on the fender with remotes on the back. Hose was cracked so I took that all off and just put hose to loop back into the adaptor.