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  1. #11
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,201
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Quote Originally Posted by kennyd View Post
    Grade 100 is just plain overkill for a tractor. A G70 3/8" hook is rated for 6,600 pounds, and a 5/16" 4,700 pounds. The bucket would fall off the tractor before one of those broke!

    http://www.boltonhooks.com/images/Chain%20WLL1.jpg

    All of the cast weld on hooks are that AWD, Grainger, KBOGH, and various other places sell are made in China and distributed by BA Products.
    x2 ,I have to agree for sure. There is just no way a tractor FEL can put enough lifting pressure to break a hook if properly used. THAT means hooking the chain into the throat of the hook and not on the point. Even if hooked on the point I would not think a tractor of less than 100 HP could break a chain hook lifting with the FEL, BUT always put your chain in the throat just to be safe and proper.

    I put on some hooks like the ones made for installing on the end of a chain in 3/8" Gr 70 hook size. I cut off the bottom of the U that hooks into the chain and beveled both sides for a almost full penetration weld. I first welded on a 4 x6 x 1/4" reinforcement plate to the bucket then the hooks to the reinforcement pad. No way are you going to break off those hooks if properly installed and welded. I think (NOT SURE) I got mine at Harbor Freight and for sure they are Chinese made forged steel hooks as almost everything is today. I know my Gr. 70 chains are and they hold good. I pulled the belly attachment for my 70 HP tractors drawbar off and didn't damage the 3/8" chain from HF so I know it will hold anything that I hook on with my loader which is only rated at 3500 lb lift capacity although it may lift a bit more.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  2. #12
    Gold Member Buckgnarly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    499
    Location
    West topsham VT
    Tractor
    Kioti DS3510

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    What are you lifting that broke those hooks? Were you pulling with your FEL? Pics?.......

  3. #13
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    11,619
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Tractor
    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Quote Originally Posted by mikehaugen View Post
    I would have assumed that when you got to a grade 70 or higher, the hooks would be forged?
    100% correct, they are indeed forged, I mis-spoke. I edited my post above.
    KennyD
    www.boltonhooks.com



    Bolt On Grab Hooks, Weld On Grab Hooks, Specialty Chain Accessories, Specialty Hydraulic Components.

    Simple JDParts Tutorial HERE

    Visit our YouTube Channel

  4. #14
    Bronze Member ghenges's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    93
    Location
    Greensburg PA
    Tractor
    Farmall

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Here you go, quick and easy.

    CM (Columbus McKinnon) Grade 80 Chain Hooks only $15.00 each - FREE SHIPPING

    Yea, yea, GRADE 80 may be considered overkill by some here,
    ........but 30 bucks for 2 hooks from a quality manufacturer, you can't go wrong.
    "I know the end of humanity is near when my tractor comes with a place to store and plug in a cell phone, but no tool box" -- God's Country

  5. #15
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    11,619
    Location
    Westminster, MD
    Tractor
    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Quote Originally Posted by ghenges View Post
    He asked for "Weld On" hooks specifically.
    KennyD
    www.boltonhooks.com



    Bolt On Grab Hooks, Weld On Grab Hooks, Specialty Chain Accessories, Specialty Hydraulic Components.

    Simple JDParts Tutorial HERE

    Visit our YouTube Channel

  6. #16
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,333
    Location
    Up State S.C.
    Tractor
    AC WD 34 hp/3500 lbs MF 261 60 hp/5380 lbs

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    For that reason I use a little different system, a 2" x 4" x 1/2" plate welded to the bucket, a nut welded to the plate, and a clevis type hook attached with a bolt into the nut. The bolt is the sacrificial link that gives way when the strain is too much. When that happens, you pick up the clevis type hook, a new bolt, and re-install the hook. You are on your way in short order if you keep a couple of extra bolts in your tool box.[/QUOTE]

    Greasemonkeyok
    Your system sounds promising but, I can't understand exactly how you attach the clevis type hook to the 1/2 inch plate? Could you explain further? A photo would be even better.

  7. #17
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,461
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Tractor
    JD cut

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Take the pin out of the grab hook, and run the same-sized bolt back through into the nut as described below. Actually, I also threaded a hole in the 2" x 4" x 1/2" plate below the nut so that the bolt is held in place by threads in both the nut and plate.

    Also, I cut a shallow grove in the plate for the backside (left in the image) of the hook to impede its tendency to sway back forth. I suppose you could tack weld it if you wanted.

    -grabhook-jpg

    The plate would be to the left and perpendicular to the hook in the above image, the nut would be in the same location as the cotter pin, and the bolt would be inserted from right to left through the hook into the nut. With a little adjustment when you are welding and a little grinding, you can get it to fit snug.

    For nut placement, drill the hole in the plate, thread the hole, then run the bolt into the nut and plate toghther. With the nut snug to the plate, weld the nut to the plate, checking the alignment periodically by running the bolt in and out.

    Pictures when I can.

  8. #18
    Platinum Member Big Wave D's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    527
    Tractor
    Kubota L35, Kubota B6200E

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    greasemonkeyok,

    Is it possible for you to post a picture of your setup that you describe?

    Thanks

    Edit: Hadn't seen the previous posts also asking for more details and pictures.

  9. #19
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    1,333
    Location
    Up State S.C.
    Tractor
    AC WD 34 hp/3500 lbs MF 261 60 hp/5380 lbs

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Thank you greesemonkeyok. When the bolt breaks, is an easyout required to remove it?

  10. #20
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    3,461
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Tractor
    JD cut

    Default Re: Weldable grab hooks

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckmotor View Post
    ... When the bolt breaks, is an easyout required to remove it?
    Good question.

    The release in tension on the bolt head when it breaks, generally at the threadline, makes it easy to back out. The threadline on the bolt is the fulcrum and weak point. I prefer Grade eight bolts because they don't seem to bend, they just snap.

    Also, carefully tapping the hole in the plate prevents tension between the threads in the nut and the threads in the plate. And, cut the bolt short enough so that it doesn't bottom out on the bucket wall when tightened down. If the bolt is too long, it will bottom out on the bucket wall before it cinches the hook down, and then it would be difficult to get the thread portion of the bolt out if it breaks.

    BTW, some of the pressure on the hook is on the back side of the hook that sits in the groove in the plate. Can't say how much that adds to the overall capacity of the setup, but I haven't had a chronic problem with the bolts breaking.

    Another advantage is that if you have a job that the hooks will interfere with, just unbolt them and toss into the tool box. Sometimes small branches get caught in the hooks when moving a lot of brush.

    Actual pictures to follow when I get to the barn again. Like a lot of old folks, I run into so many things that need attention on the way to the barn that I forget the main reason for going there in the first place. "Lets see, now why did I bring this prybar and roll of duct tape?"
    Last edited by greasemonkeyok; 02-24-2013 at 12:22 PM.

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