Trouble starting a Mitsubishi D1800

[BRYBURTON]

I just purchased a Mitsubishi D1800. The guy I bought it from said he had not used it in a year and a half. He had it for 3 years and used it a few times to use a 4' bush hog. He had it running when he posted it to sale. I went to look at it, it fired up rather easily, and I took it for a short drive up the driveway. When I got it home, I turned the key and it just wouldn't start. It's trying, the battery seems to have enough juice, it's puffing some smoke out of the exhaust as it attempts.......it just won't fire. I went to a local tractor store and bought 2 glow plugs ($94 with tax - I had no idea glow plugs would be this expensive - later I found the same plugs on Amazon for $30/each). Anyway, I put them in and I saw no change. It still won't fire. The temperature has been around 45 degrees the two times I've tried to start it and it was 35 when I bought it. What should be my next step? It looks like it has just under half a tank of fuel. I imagine the oil/oil and fuel filters have not been changed in a while. I would appreciate any advice. Is there any other information I should provide that may give a better clue as to why it isn't firing?

Thanks,

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

How long are you pre-heating (glowing) the engine for before cranking? Generally it will take 30-45 seconds for this to be effective. If your smoke is white this is the problem. If it's black then it might be another issue.

 

[BRYBURTON]

I did not know that initially (but I found out later). The last time I tried to start it, I left the key on for 1 minute before trying to start. The smoke is black, not severe just what I thought would be typical when the engine starts.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Some black smoke on startup is ok, as long as it starts.

 

[284 International]

Check to verify the glow plugs are actually getting current first of all. My D1800 isn't particularly easy starting when cold, but it starts consistently. After 5 to 10 seconds of cranking, if the glow plugs are preheated, it will always start. It has also never started more easily than that unless warmed up. I don't know that this is representative of this particular engine or not; the D1800 is a fairly rare machine.

Check, also, to make sure there is no blowby out the crankcase vent.

My D1800 is a great little tractor. It is powerful and maneuverable, and the 3 speed/3 range transmission is markedly superior to the typical 4 speed/2 range transmission usually found in Kubota or Yanmar's comparable tractors.

 

[CliffordK]

Before spending $180 on new glowplugs, you can probably test the old ones.

Ground them, connect 12V power, and if they get hot, they're probalby ok.

I think you may also get an idea in the block by disconnecting the wires/bus, and then touching a live wire to the connection. If you get a spark, then that means you don't have an open circuilt in the plug, and it should be ok.

 

[TomSeller]

I had a Mitsubishi K3A 3 cyl that did something similar and it turned out to be a plugged injector. I had a mixture of white and black smoke and it "almost" would start. I had 3 cylinders mind you, and I was able to get it to run on 2 by using a hair dryer to pre heat the air intake into the air cleaner. Once I had it limping along, I cracked injector lines on each cylinder. Cracking #1 or #3 stalled the engine. Cracking #2 made no difference which pinned it down. I don't know if a 2 cyl like you have would run on 1 but it might be worth a try. I also slapped a magnetic block heater on but I don't know if that helped much. If you have nice clean garage you could put an electric heater under it to warm the block, assuming you have no fuel or oil leaks. I would stay by it if you do the heater thing. Warm engines start so much better than cold ones. I am assuming there is no block heater of course. Fuel line valve is open I assume?

 

[BRYBURTON]

Thanks for all of the replies and advice. I guess my next step will be to see if the glow plugs are heating up. I know very little about these kinds of repairs. Anyone have a step-by-step on how to do that? Also, I probably won't get back to the tractor until this weekend. Of course, I will post my results when it does turn over.

 

[BRYBURTON]

Maybe that was a dumb question. I think I know the answer. I should take a test light, turn the switch, put the prong on the top of the plug, ground it, and see if it lights up. If it lights up, that means I am getting power to my plugs, right?

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Yes, but that doesn't necessarily mean the plug is working. Ideally you would measure the amps going to the plugs. Generally a good plug will pull about 10-14 amps. This isn't a perfect test either as there are circumstances that could cause this many amps but not be heating the plug, although it would be rare.

The best thing to do is like CliffordK suggested. Pull the plug, connect 12VDC to where the wire goes to it and then ground the threaded area using jumper cables or whatever. The element on the glow plug will begin to get hot - watch what it touches (keep fingers away) - and begin to "glow" like a toaster filament. If it does then it should be working properly. It should only take a few seconds for this to happen.