D1600 Flywheel Bad?

[Localboy]

Recently bought a Mitsubishi D1600 tractor.
With a very robust starting system. new 700 CCA batter, clean new terminals and connections, tractor had reliably started, but after the glow plugs ran down battery, due to a cheap chinese ignition switch, which shifted from run position to activate glow plugs. After charging battery up, the starter motor just whirled and did not engage 2 cylinder diesel motor. Murphy is alive and well, as a second problem is discovered, while rectifying the first.

Checked if problem was the clutch or flywheel, by removing the starter and advanced the flywheel with a pry bar, and to my astonishment, did not see the front pulley budge an inch. Before I split the tractor , being wholly unfamiliar with this tractor , I wish to know, is the flywheel bolted to the crank like most diesels?
If so, I must have a separated the mounting bolt panel from the flywheel.

If anyone has had experience with this. let me know

Where can I purchase clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel parts?

localboy

 

[oliver28472]

So, the starter is working? If so, when the starter is turning the engine over does the front pulley turn then?

 

[Localboy]

olinver post. No the front pulley does not move. And there is little resistance on the pulley.

I think I over did it with the tiller, and broke the flywhelel bolts or mounting plate.

the starter immediately disengages the flywheel when I turn the engine on.
I don't get the thunk when starter gear engages the flywheel.

Is the crank shaft bolted to the flywheel?

 

[oliver28472]

Yes but lets make sure your starter is working like it is supposed to before you take bigger stuff apart. I'm not an expert on starters but the gear on the starter that engages the flywheel has to be able to disengage when you release the key. When you put the switch in start position, the gear slides in position to engage the flywheel. From your description it could be that when the switch was replaced, something did not get wired back correctly and that is why the starter just "whirs". Copied and pasted from another thread:

Check battery cable connections?
I had a similar problem with my Beaver, but it was the smaller hot wire from the starter terminal which smoked (I believe that wire goes back to the ignition switch). I found my problem was related to the ignition switch. I don't know why the wire at the alternator would short out while cranking, unless the alternator or regulator is bad.

 

[Localboy]

Thanks so much for the good advice. I am ready for bad news most the time. What
you advise makes sense.

The problem began with the switch or electrical system discharging the battery while the tractor was running last. The tractor charge indicator light turned on, never was on at all in the past, and went off after awhile.When I turned the tractor off it would not start, something had discharged the battery to 11 volts.

I then charged the battery up. That is when the tractor wouldn't engage the starter, or just whirl.
You are probably correct in concluding the starter selenoid, or the switch, or the wire that feeds it is fried.

The previous owner replaced the ignition switch. The lights and the charging lites didn.t work when I bought it.

I will need to get a schematic to insure they wired the switch correctly. The switch says made in China. So that made me suspecious. The ignition switch doesn.t seem to be reliable, as I conclude it would have to changed position to turn the glow plugs on and discharge my new 700 CCA battey. I think the ignition switch is bad to the starter.

It always throws me for a loop when I have multiple problems at the same time. My diagnosis of a broken flywheel was premature, as I did not hear a load bang while running.

When I get back to the ranch I will change out the switch and check the wire to the starter from the ignition.

It would nice to have a glow plug light (led) that would lite up when the glow plugs are on. The glow plug
indicator on the dash is too dim to see.

Thanks again.

 

[oliver28472]

You might need to take the starter with you and have it checked at a parts store like Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc.

 

[Localboy]

You might need to take the starter with you and have it checked at a parts store like Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc.

I will take your advice. Only I do not have the starter part number, O'Reilly Auto Parts need that. Will have to come up with a comparable starter number.

Found thru posts that a bad glow plug relay that malfunctions and make connection to the glow plugs on its own, without being engaged,
Maybe my ignition switch is ok after all.

This would explain why the glow plugs would discharge the battery. According to the book on glow plugs they take 150 watts each, that would 2 cylinder plugs + front panel indicator , 450 watts and results in 35-40 amps, this would discharge a battery in a short time span. Also, explains why I would sometimes initially have the charge light on (alternator/battery charging) and then why the charging light would go off ( glow plugs turning on). Need an LED glow plug indicator. Should be a simple thing to do.

 

[oliver28472]

Hmm, not sure why they would need a starter part number to test it.

 

[Localboy]

That is what they told me over the phone. I am sure it relates to the current draw
when under load. However, they may test it like Briggs & Stratton, run it unloaded at
maximum speed, and monitor the current draw. I will just take it in if I unable to make
make the starter work in the tractor.

 

[dmn]

I have a question, but cannot find anywhere to post except to reply to thread. Since you are discussing the D1600, can anyone tell me the capacity of the hydraulic system? 2WD, 2 cylinder, no loader.