Satoh 630D Bull Clutch Stuck

[jt80]

I am having issues with my Satoh 630-D Bull clutch. The tractor has ran just fine since I've owned it the past year until this last week. It appears the clutch is "stuck" enaged to the flywheel. It only sat a few weeks between use so I find it hard to believe it rusted to the flywheel, but may have happened. It has sat longer several times until this last time, but maybe the moisture level was just right. I've tried all the tricks to jar it loose with no success. I've tried dragging implements, skidding tires with clutch pedal depressed etc. I'm running out of ideas before I split the tractor and see what's going on. I've even disconnected the clutch linkage and manually tried to force the clutch arm further than the linkage does in normal use to put more pressure on the pressure plate, no success.

Has anyone else had similar issues that wasn't a result of a rusted clutch? I'm a fairly experienced mechanical guy, but could be overlooking something. It just seems odd that it would rust that bad in just a couple of weeks. When I start it in gear and drive it, it works fine, I just can't switch gears, or engage gears while its running, it must be shifted while not running, then started in gear to move it.

I'm open to suggestions before I split it. Thanks.

 

[Sonny580]

Can you see/feel the throwout bearing??---could have gone out on you and not working the pressure plate.
cross shaft sheared a key??just a couple more things to check before the split! thanks; sonny580

 

[jt80]

Unfortunately, the flywheel inspection access is limited and only allows limited view of the engine side of the flywheel. I contimplated drilling an access hole through the bell housing to try and gain some visibility of the bearing, not sure I want to do that though. Regarding your reference to the "cross shaft," are you speaking of the shaft that rotates via the clutch linkage and appears to act as a clutch fork would on a auto clutch system. If so, I'm not familiar with how the internal mechanisms are in the bell housing. I have not seen an exploded view or actual. Is there a woodruff key that could have sheared?

Lastly, I read a post somewhere that said if it was a froze flywheel due to rust, that it could be broke loose by running the PTO and activating the clutch. Have you heard of that? I'm pretty good with auto's and equipment, but not real experienced with this tractor as of yet. I guess I'll be getting aquainted soon.

Thanks again, let me know what you think.

 

[jt80]

I just broke it loose. Re-tried the PTO cycling, then put in 1st gear and rocked rears tires again...popped loose finally. Happy day. Thanks Sonny for the reply.

 

[smithbrl]

Glad you got it freed up. Make sure you block the pedal down when the tractor's not in use.

Cecil

 

[timrj]

glad you got it lose, my tractor wasn't so lucky the clutch was rusted in place win we got it. you were vary lucky.

 

[Green Acres rAf]

Glad you got it freed up. Make sure you block the pedal down when the tractor's not in use.

Cecil

Hi smithbrl,
What exactly do you mean by "block the pedal down"? put a cinder block on the clutch pedal? Is it best to do this instead of just leaving it rest in the "normal" off state?

Thanks,
Raf

 

[motomedic]

My Bull did the same thing, and I managed to get it to free up after a run on the road with clutch in, luckily. The Bull has (or at least mine does) a rod to flip and hold the clutch depressed. I have always wondered what this was for, thought maybe for added safety or for use of some implement requiring the thing to be stationary, but after mine did this to me I wonder if it is so you Can keep the clutch disengaged during periods of unuse? Seems like the throw-out bearing would not want to be under pressure all the time, but it beats having a severly stuck flywheel to the clutch!

 

[evan price]

If the motor is not running, leaving the clutch pushed in won't hurt the bearing, it's designed for the load.

 

[smithbrl]

Hi smithbrl,
What exactly do you mean by "block the pedal down"? put a cinder block on the clutch pedal? Is it best to do this instead of just leaving it rest in the "normal" off state?

Thanks,
Raf

Hi Raf

The easiest thing to do if you don't have the rod motomedic mentioned is get a short 2x4 or 4x4. Press down on the clutch pedal and place the board between the clutch pedal shaft and the foot board. That will keep the pedal from coming up and engaging the clutch. The plates will stay separated and will not be able to rust together.

I had to manufacture a rod for mine. It doesn't work as well as I want it to so while I'm fixing that up I use the 2x4 method.

Cecil