650G will be the death of me

[sruman]

Ok. I have a major issue. Tractor overheated, I thought it was the head gasket. Replaced and corrected. Hooked everything up.
Water is pouring out from the plate under the tractor to access the fly wheel. Here's the facts:

Head gasket replaced.
No water/coolant in the oil pan.
Tractor was running when I shut it off, no knocks, just overheating.

I'm hoping that there's a frost plug on the back side of the engine, but I simply don't know.
Otherwise, I'm looking at a severly cracked block. Water is running out quickly, nearly as fast as I'm pouring it in.

Any advice. Thoughts.

 

[Sonny580]

It looks like a tractor split about needed here to check what did happen!---I would say plug fell out and that was the source of your overheating!---I dont think its a bad job to do the split,---but just the fact that it needs to be done is the problem! thanks;sonny580

 

[PILOON]

You say no water in pan therefor to leak has to be external to the head or block.
Check all hoses, perhaps one is pierced where you can't see it.
Leaking that bad surly you should be able to spot it.
Is the head warped? could it leak out side of head gasket? Did you plane the head? (most mechanics insist on doing that because they claim warpage generally exists especially if overheated))

Good luck, don't panic,

If it were a crack that leaks that bad I'm sure you would have spotted it. Hairline probably not.

Water pump seals? Bad frost plug? Rad drain left open? Leaking rad?
Did you torque the head down using the factory pattern? (generally snug all and torque from center working outwards)

 

[sruman]

Got the block split off enough to see where the water is coming from. Water is running out at the top of the block, about dead center. The block is only split just a little bit, but I can at least see the water. It appears there's a plug there, but I cannot quite see enough yet.

Also, having one heck of a time getting the apart the rest of the way. As noted, I have the block split about 1/2", but cannot get is anymore. Is there anything internal that needs to happen with this tractor, before you can finish the split (linkage, drive shaft, clutch, I throwing darts here). Is there any tricks or tips that you can share? I'm stuck.

PILOON: To answer your questions, Head was torqued to spec, proper pattern. Definitely leaking out of the back of the block (see above). Water is running out just about as fast as it pours in (leading me to the frost plug theory).

Thanks guys. You have always pulled through, and I greatly appreciate it.

 

[modifyit]

If the coolant is coming from the very top of the block, is it possible there is a plug in the back of the head that is gone. That being the problem, you wouldn't have to split the case. The upper plug in the block, could be the plug in the camshaft bore and not a water jacket plug. But I suppose there could also be a second plug for the water jacket on centerline. Just suggesting because I am not familiar with this engine.

 

[Sonny580]

I cant find a pic of the backside of engine to see what is on it!---used blocks run from $475.00 to $519.00!---
My old tractor book dont show the back of the engine either!!!---Engine removal ,from reading the procedure looks straight forward! ---If you dont have it apart yet,--- say so and I will go over the steps for you and see what is missing!---Wish I could be of some help to you, but I just got my S-650-G and am learning about it myself! LOL!
Forgot to ask, but yours does have Mazda PB engine in it---correct?????--- just checkin! thanks;sonny580

 

[sruman]

Still don't have the block split. It's stuck on there, and dug in deeper than an Alabama tick!!!!!! Man.

I'll take you up on your "step by step". Here's what I've done so far. Also, worth noting, if I can repair the frost plug without taking it completely out, that's the plan. Just slide it out far enough to look at it and correct.

So far, unhooked all electrical wiring. Unhooked lines to hydr pump (does pump need to come off?), front engine mounts off, 6 nuts off from block pins/rods (under gas tank, along sides of back side of block), throttle cables, choke cable, etc.
As is, block is slightly split (about 1/2 inch), but that's it. Won't budge a fraction further. When I pry, all mounts bolts are moving, so that are not seized. All indictation are that they sucker should pull right out. It appears that the possibly the splines are seized tight (just a guess). Also when prying (lightly), the flywheel is moving with the engine.
Do you know if there's anything around the flywheel that needs unbolts/unfastened? Anything specific to the clutch? In my experience, I never needed to do anything with it, but you never know. It's worth asking before completely writing that off.

appreciate the help, but I'm stuck, literally.

 

[Xfaxman]

Pictures, we need Pictures!

 

[Leejohn]

Clutch spline is rusted and is holding you or maybe twisded. You well have to pull way apart because the plug has to be driven in stright. If everything you try doesn't work and it is 1/2" apart, you might be able to unbolt the pressure plate. If the bearing in the flywheel is froze up, all that is left is just pry it apart.

 

[Sonny580]

Here is a scan from my big book:



See if you can read it.---you will probably have to magnify it, but I hope its readable!thanks; sonny580