Help with Satoh S370D

[Jptech]

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone can help me with my S370. I bought it a year ago, drove it off the trailer, and parked it. I tried to start it a few days later with no luck, and it hasn't run since. So far I have: Cleaned and sealed fuel tank, new fuel filter and hoses, had injection pump and injectors re-built, and fresh diesel. The glow plugs aren't working, but it was 84 deg the last time I tried to start it. It is blowing out grey smoke. Any help would be greatly appreciated!--John

 

[Kernopelli]

I'm going to guess two possible issues. Assuming the timing is correct, the fuel system isn't fully primed or the engine isn't spinning fast enough. One recent post from a TBN member talked about having to pressurize his fuel tank to force fuel through the system after repeated tries to prime it. Described here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/278520-mitsubishi-d1600-not-starting-2.html post # 13 and #15 .

The other may be that the engine isn't spinning fast enough. Diesels can be a little temperamental about this. A difference of a couple hundred RPM in cranking speed can mean the difference between an engine that chugs, smokes and won't start and one that fires up at the first turn of the key.

 

[Jptech]

That's an interesting idea! I obviously never thought of pressurizing the fuel system! I will try that as soon as it warms up again. The timing is another issue I've been wondering about. The only thing I could find out in the manual is dealing with the shim under the injection pump. The only thing between the pump, and block was a paper "gasket". I measured from the mounting surface to the base circle of cam and found the thickness of shim needed. I had a shim laser cut for it. I think it was around .026". Should I time it a different way? Thank You for replying!---------John
:drink:

 

[Jptech]

I forgot to mention that I put a brand new battery in it, and it cranks faster than it did--------------John

 

[Kernopelli]

Wish I could help you on the timing but I've never had to do it myself and have only read the same description about shims in my manual. Hard to believe there is much wrong with the machine considering it was running and all you've done. I assume you are getting at least some fuel since you are seeing white smoke but maybe it's not getting to all injectors. Try the fuel pressurizing and if that doesn't work, I guess I'd suggest a compression check next. I know it's warm but since you don't have working glow plugs, you can try taking the air cleaner out and blowing hot air into the intake with a heat gun or blow dryer to see if that helps give it some "preheat". I've read about TBN members doing this many times but never tried it myself.

 

[Jptech]

I tried pressurizing the fuel tank and thought it would start right up. It didn't . I then noticed the oil, and charge lights weren't coming on when I turn the key to on. I turn the key to on, then back to off, and they light up. If I turn to heat, lights go off. I'm starting to think I've got a wiring problem. I also noticed that the terminals on the ignition switch are all loose. Connectiions are tight, blades are moving. Thanks for all your help!---John
:drink:

 

[Kernopelli]

Sounds like you have a short,loose wires or bad switch. However, I doubt that is your problem. I don't remember the 370 having a fuel shutoff solenoid and can't think of anything else an electrical issue would effect other than the starter. Diesels aren't like gas engines that require spark....give them timed fuel, compression and air and they are going to (hopefully) run. I was able to get a nice "generic" 4 position switch on Ebay for about $15 several years back. Might look there, Amazon ( or Google it and look at prices) if interested in changing it out. Factory switches are HIGH MITSUBISHI MT1801 (D) IGNITION SWITCH - GLOW PLUG TYPE GLOW PLUG TYPE has a decent price on replacement switches.
I am beginning to wonder if the shim you had cut is too thick or thin. Bill Rodgers at Valley power sells the OEM replacement shims. Valley Power 800-609-5110 He is extremely sharp on Satoh/Mitsubishi's, I would give them a call and ask for their opinion on possible solutions.

 

[Jptech]

I was wondering if I was maybe having a "kill switch" situation with the ignition switch, or somewhere in the wiring. I've spoken with Bill at Valley Power. They did my injection pump and injectors. He said the shims were a pain to get, so that's why I made mine. I'm going to work on the wiring and see if that works. Thanks again!-------------John

 

[techwrtr2]

Just out of curiosity, if you don't mind my asking, what did VP charge to rebuild the injector pump? I've been trading some emails with Bill and we both think that may be my problem...

 

[284 International]

Have you actually verified the timing is correct for your shimming of the injection pump? My manual for the KE70 says the timing should be 25 degrees BTDC, but if it is checked with the pump assembled (The manuals says "With the delivery valve in place...") the proper timing is 1 degree behind from the 25 degrees BTDC.

Having said all that, my Mitsubishis won't start without the glow plugs; I would bite the bullet and buy a set.