MT160D

[Capricious]

Photo of right-side of engine. Oil pressure sender in center, black-painted oil filter over on the left





i have a set of mechanical gauges on the way. Would like to keep the idiot lights if not a big hassle. What are those (2) allen-head plugs, on either side of the sender unit, and can I plump in the mechanical gauge tube to one of those? If not, I'll just ditch the sender for the light.

In regards to the BPS threaded oil sender hole, I have in hand the adapter mentioned in this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/242494-rpm-oil-pressure-water-temp.html

(Thank you, Oliver28472)




Would like to keep the temperature light as well. Might install the tube for the temperature gauge in the threaded opening above the oil filter:



There is an elbow in this hole, with a hose leading to the bottom of the radiator, with a drain petcock located in the middle of the hose. This appears to be a factory set-up:

View attachment page 2 10 MT160 Mt180 service manual.pdf



(Drawing, lower right corner)


I am not sure if coolant can run between the block and the radiator through this line, or if the petcock closes-off flow through the hose when in the "closed" position. I don't see why coolant would NEED to flow through this hose- earlier tractors do not seem to have this hose.

Or, I could just replace the temperature light sender as well.

 

[PILOON]

That crankshaft pulley/donut/and splined part is the front PTO setup for the MT160/180 tractor.
Essentially it is a universal joint to which they had an electric clutch attached that then goes to the belly mower.

I have the same setup and used it to drive my second hydraulic pump that is dedicated to my FEL. In fact my MT180 is now dual hydraulics and my FEL is comfortably much faster.

 

[Capricious]

Waited until evening and then tried rolling the crankshaft over with a bright light on the pulley. Was finally able to find the group of (3) marks for timing the injectors:

View attachment timing marks.pdf

The TDC for #1 should be near the injector marks, per the diagram, lower left page above, but I am still having trouble locating it. I THINK I may see if but it is extremely faint. Will try wiping a dab of wet paint on the assumed spot and wiping it off, and see if a little remains in the groove.

Gauge set finally showed up:

 

[Capricious]

Since i decided it would not be prudent to haul both the tractor & rotary cutter together behind my truck, yesterday (Sunday) morning I drove the 210 miles to the land, hauling the cutter, the angle blade and also my walk-behind field & brush mower:






Drug the cutter and the blade into the brush and got them "sorta" hidden. Although the 42' cutter only weighs about 370 pounds without the PTO shaft, it is still a "chunk" to haul though the brush by one's self.

This is the first i had seen the land since last October, so i was wondering what (10) months of weed growth would look like:






Not as bad as i thought it might be, but still well beyond the limits of my 1978 Sears garden tractor with 42" mower deck, and while the walk behind mower will handle it, cutting somewhere around (5) acres with a 24" cut mower is a job i have done before but do not intend to do again.

However, there are areas that the tractor/rotary cutter are not going to be able to deal with, such as triming around trees, and also a hill that must be accessed from the top, as the bottom is government land:


Spent some time mowing that hill until the dust & pollen got to me. Also mowed a path for vehicles:




In the afternoon, loaded up the walk-behind (which i am NOT going to leave "on-site"), and headed for home:


Next trip, I will bring the tractor and try bush hogging/brush hogging for the very first time. This ought to be interesting (as well as entertaining for those who might care to watch.)

 

[Capricious]

Mowing "the hill" with the walk-behind:



I cut down many many many little trees in the re-clearing of this land (it had been bulldozed in 2002 or 2003, and then left untouched until late 2010, when I went to work on it. 2012 was the "peak" year: I spent 27 days (almost a full month) re-clearing this land.

Got most of the stumps cut-off low-enough to mow over:




The whole point of getting the bigger tractor is to minimze the amount of time spent taking care of the place. Cut it all once or maybe twice a year, as opposed to 3 or 4 times.

 

[Capricious]

Did I mention that there are rocks? Rocks everywhere. i have spent countless hours "picking and piling" rocks, and so there are piles of rocks scattered around the property:




Spent some time with the walk-behind trimming around the rock piles so that i don't accidently run over them with the tractor.

 

[284 International]

What a neat property! Thanks for the pictures. Hopefully your tractor will speed up the job for you.

 

[Capricious]

What a neat property! Thanks for the pictures. Hopefully your tractor will speed up the job for you.

Thanks for the kind comment.

Nicest thing about this place; at the bottom of the hill, as mentioned, is government ground. About 200 feet accross the government ground is the shoreline of a 7,800 acre Corp of Engineers lake: Someday I might have a cabin/house on a raised foundation, overlooking the lake, with a short walk to the shoreline:



Assuming I don't kill myself first, trying to de-rock and de-brush the place.

 

[skylarkguy]

That's a nice looking place you have there. I think your Mitsu will do well. Good luck.

 

[techwrtr2]

I'm quite familiar with rocks. One look at the new blades on my mid mount and you would think them several years old with zero care. And I have tried, oh have I tried, to rid the place of rocks where I mow. I have stone cairns randomly built here and there just for something to do with all of those rocks. Probably ought to locate those cairns to actually do something like mark walking paths.