180 questions

[tnjind]

I have a I believe, MT180D. Its 4 wheel drive with a 3 cylinder diesel. This tractor was in a garage that burned down. It's current wiring is just enough to run it (starter key switch, push button for glow plugs, one wire alternator) I would like to re wire it.

1. What size should I fuse it for the glow plugs?

2. What length of time for glowplug operation? I will probably use a timing relay.

3. Also this machine has blown up two batteries since I have had it, about 5 years or so, always while cranking with a really low charge, never any other time.
Would the starter cause this? Maybe the fire damaged the bearings allowing the internals to touch shorting??
The one-wire alternator has never put out over 14.8 volts everytime I have checked it at different RPMs.

Thanks for any and all help

Tim.

 

[George2615]

1) Most tractors with glow plugs use a glow plug relay and a timer. The relay may be fused for as little as 5 amps. The relay applies direct voltage 10-12V to the glow plugs either thru a timer or manual push button.
2) Glow plug timers usually run for 5-10 seconds. You can just use the manual glow plug button for the same amount of time.
3) Batteries usually blow up when the electrolite (sulfuric acid) is low in the cells. This allows a lot of gas buildup in the cells where acid should be. From there it only takes a small spark to ignite and create an explosion. It sounds like your alternator is overcharging which boils out the acid. Once started the alternator may show 14.8V but the built in regulator should bring that voltage back down to 12-12.5V. If it's a constant 14.8V it's overcharging. Until that condition is fixed you need to check the battery cells often to make sure they are not low.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Just one quick correction. A 12 volt battery has 2.2 volts/cell = 13.2 volts. The battery won't charge if the voltage is less than 13.2. The charging volts should slowly taper down to 13.8 - 14.2 volts after starting. Can be as high as 15 - 16 volts right after starting. Singe wire alternators need good connections between the battery and the alternator as they sense battery voltage internally instead of by the battery.

 

[tnjind]

Really great info guys, thank you.

Right now I have the wire for the alternator going through the key switch, should it go directly to the battery then?

 

[George2615]

pmsmechanic is correct. I was thinking of battery standing voltage of 12-12.5 and typed that instead of 13.8-14.2 while running.

 

[tnjind]

I have been skidding small logs with it, cutting firewood. When I took it back to the shop I checked voltage with it running at fast idle it was 14.6-14.65 volts it slowly went down to 14.55.

The main alternator wire goes to the stud on the starter that the positive cable is on. There is a smaller that goes from a spade terminal on the alternator to a light bulb then to the on position on the key switch.

My previous post about wire going to key only was wrong.

Would I be better using a normal alternator and external regulator? If so how would I wire it?

Thanks again for all of the help.

Tim.

 

[George2615]

The single wire alt. you have is fine. Just keep a check on the battery acid levels to make sure its not boiling off. Also make sure the ground is nice and clean where it attaches to the frame.

 

[PILOON]

I nave manually controlled glow plugs in the past.
Wire needs to be hefty, like perhaps #10 and the switch a spring loaded momentary type, probably a relay would be best to use as a push switch would probably weld itself. Generally 5 secs would do the trick, (thousand and one etc.)
Actually Mitsu has no fuse in the glow plug circuit but a relay could be fused in the activation circuit. Place the relay as close as possible to the battery to lessen chances of shorting to ground.(hot side of the starter relay would be good location)
I also own a MT180D for last 15 yrs, tough little tractor!

 

[tnjind]

Thanks for the info, I still need to rewire it, I hope to soon.
Now I have another problem, while mowing leaves the front wheel locked up when I tried to back up. I took it into the shop and removed wheel and axle stub. There was hardly any lube at all and it was light brown. I was just thinking while mowing that I needed to change it as I never have yet.
Anyway The top bearing is bad (rust, dry and fell apart locking up wheel) and the outer wheel bearing is bad and the seal.
I can locate the bearings, NTN30304a and NTN6206. However I can not locate the three lipped seal, it is an NOK brand AE2074E.

Does anyone know where I can find the parts?

Thanks

 

[pmsmechanic]

I googled the part number AE2074E and came up with several site that look like they would sell that seal. There were also a few cross references to different seal part numbers. You could also get the seal measured at a store like NAPA and they should be able to figure the size out.