Turbo Satoh S373 Beaver III

[GrocMax]

S373 turbo, in progress. Just finished the 304 stainless manifold. 3/4" pipe weld ells, simple log manifold, 304 flanges.

Most people put waaaaaay too big a turbo on a small diesel, this one should actually work perfect for a K3A, its pretty much the smallest turbo Mitsubishi makes, TD025-015C 1.4cm2, which was used on 1800 RPM constant speed 1.2L-1.7L gensets. K4F 1500cc used same turbine wheel with a nozzle area twice as large (2.8cm2) and the 03C compressor.

 

[GrocMax]

FYI Mitsubishi has all the info you need on selecting a compressor within the family name-

015C = .015 cubic meters/sec volume flow (38 CFM) corrected to 20C temp, 101.3 kpa conditions at the center of the map. C = comp wheel aero family.

030C = .03 cubic meters/sec volume flow (64 CFM) corrected to 20C temp, 101.3 kpa conditions at the center of the map. C = comp wheel aero family.

16G = .16 cubic meters/sec volume flow (339 CFM) corrected to 20C temp, 101.3 kpa conditions at the center of the map. G = comp wheel aero family.

A 776cc naturally aspirated engine at 80% volumetric efficiency will move .015 m3/sec air at 2900 RPM so the 015C is pretty close to being ideally sized.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Looking good! Yes, small turbos that are a good fit for low output diesel engines under 1 liter are difficult to find (especially cheap). Are you planning on increasing the fuel pump output? If so, that would be good to document here as well. Enjoy!

 

[GrocMax]

No plans on altering fuel control, the increase in torque rise below max RPM should be self-compensating. The wastegate actuator on this unit is 405 mmHg or 7.8 PSIg. Mitsu actuators have their pressure stamped in the bracket in mm/Hg. Brand new genuine MHI units aren't that expensive. Gotta watch out for Chinesium-Ebaysium copies though, they are generally junk, really poor materials and QC.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

You've lost me a bit. I thought the point of adding a turbo was to increase the amount of oxygen to the engine therefore allowing more fuel to be added without hitting the smoke point of the exhaust and ultimately creating more power. I added a turbo to a KE70 engine to compensate for high elevation where I lived (less oxygen density) and never altered the pump output either. However the goal was just to restore available power to sea level capability. What are you trying to accomplish? If nothing more than the fun of adding a turbo that is reason enough but you'll have some potential to make more power but it will require more fuel.

 

[GrocMax]

I'm not concerned with max power at max RPM, i.e. make a race engine out of it. These older fuel systems tend to overfuel at medium RPM high load settings to begin with. While there may only be a minor power increase from 2500-2800 RPM the high load response from 1500-2500 is where the targeted power increase will be. Too large of a turbo kills all the response in the lower RPM range, where you want it.

Its a green initiative deal, cleans up the smoke and happens to add a little power in the process. Just trying to do our part, because earth y'know

Run a diesel at 1.0 Lambda a little below the smoke region you'll burn it up. Add a little more air in the smoke region and increase the AFR its really happy. Too large of a turbo is essentially an expensive muffler. If it is so large you run in the surge region bad things happen.

And the answer to why is because we can.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Sounds good. Keep us posted on the progress :thumbsup:

 

[GrocMax]

The easy portion of the fabricobble is done, comp inlet to filter and comp outlet to intake manifold. Everything fits under the hood.



Next comes the hard part, the turbine discharge.

 

[oliver28472]

I'd love to hear that whine!

 

[skylarkguy]

This looks very interesting