CuzCumminsGuy
New member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2017
- Messages
- 20
- Location
- Jesup, Georgia
- Tractor
- Mitsubishi D1500, 1998-1/2 Dodge D2500 w/ Compound Turbo's
Have been working on a Mitsubishi D1500 tractor for about 6 months. When I got it, the previous owner hadn't taken very good care of it. The radiator was set in place and was held in place with 4 pieces of electric fence wire, no fan shroud and water was leaking from the lower radiator hose. The air filter was a radiator hose with a sock over the end with a 1 inch hole in it!
Since then, I found a new radiator for it, fabricated a steel fan shroud and built mounts that are welded into the frame rails for it to fasten to, so the radiator can be mounted to the rear and a 9 inch electric pusher fan with a thermostat can be mounted in front, as it now has an overflow tank as well. Had to relocate the battery.
The fuel filter had been bypassed and was hanging off to the side on a long hose, so I fabricated a couple of mounts from the frame and installed some 3/8" stainless steel tubing bent with tubing benders going into a Swagelok fitting from the tank, connected with the blue silicone hose held in place with fuel injection hose clamps then into a quarter turn valve, then into a coupling for the mount, then into a clear replaceable fuel filter, then into another piece of stainless tubing and into the banjo fitting at the injector pump.
Replaced the pivot bolts that hold the front cover in place (which were hard to get to at times) with a single long rod solid steel rod running through the frame and with a piece of pipe welded in between the two pivot tabs, with a clevis pin on both ends of the rod, so it is easy to pull the pin, slide the rod out and remove the cover, but also installed waterproof wiring connectors going to an air horn and the front LED lights, so I can unplug them when the cover is removed.
It had a grille from an old refrigerator, so I fabricated one from a piece of expanded metal and bolted it in place, welded up the holes for the original headlights and fabricated headlight mounts in front for 2 LED lights to mount, so I can angle them slightly for a better view at night.
Have installed an 8 space blade type fuse panel and 4 heavy duty relays for the cooling fan, the LED lights and the horn, replaced the water pump with a new unit, had the alternator rebuilt, extended the frame rails out in front so the battery can be mounted in a battery box which has drain holes for water to drain from with the bumper in front of that, replaced all of the wiring, discarded wiring that is no longer used such as for turn signals, replaced the glow plugs, the glow plug indicator (found new on eBay) and switch, wiring and all new battery cables with marine type cables and ends that are crimped on and heat shrunk.
Couldn't locate new radiator hoses, so I ordered silicone hoses and clamps with aluminum ID tubing and built my own hoses. Had an aFe air filter made for it with a Filter Wears pre-filter custom made for it, then used a piece of silicone hose and mounted it over and in front of the radiator, which is held in place by using a muffler clamp.
Am about to build a frame to mount to the top of both fenders using 1X2 inch rectangular steel tubing, then fabricate a 1-1/2 schedule 40 pipe roll-bar with an LED light bar mounted in the center on top which will look to the rear, then to use the same rectangular tubing to build a cover over the driver area, then angled tubing on both sides that will go from this driver cover to the front bumper, to keep low hanging tree limbs from trying to knock me off when I am using the bush hog.
The bush hog is about 40 inches wide, as it is heavy enough that the front of the tractor would come up off the ground when the clutch was released, so maybe the extra weight in front will also help with this problem as well.
When I first got this small tractor, it didn稚 have a rubber boot over the shifter, so I knew it was an entry point for rain water to enter into the transmission and hydraulic system. I searched on eBay and found a rubber shifter boot, and it does the job very nice to keep water from entering in by way of the shifter.
I do have a 2-1/2 gallon jug of Shell Rotella 15W-40 oil and a Wix filter that I will be changing before starting again, and will be adding Zerex Gold antifreeze and distilled water to about a 50/50 mix, then adding a bottle of Wetter Water to the radiator as well.
One concern I have with the Mitsubishi is, I don't know if it has a hydraulic filter that needs to be serviced or not, and being I don't have a manual (being there was never one printed in English), I don't know who to contact to find out, or where it would be located, or if there is even a drain plug to drain it. I know what fluid to replace it with (AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil), but don't really know where to fill it or how to check to make sure it is full. The last time I looked in the hole, it looked like there wasn稚 any oil or fluid inside the case, so I want to make sure before taking out on the maiden voyage. Any suggestions would surely be appreciated.
Since then, I found a new radiator for it, fabricated a steel fan shroud and built mounts that are welded into the frame rails for it to fasten to, so the radiator can be mounted to the rear and a 9 inch electric pusher fan with a thermostat can be mounted in front, as it now has an overflow tank as well. Had to relocate the battery.
The fuel filter had been bypassed and was hanging off to the side on a long hose, so I fabricated a couple of mounts from the frame and installed some 3/8" stainless steel tubing bent with tubing benders going into a Swagelok fitting from the tank, connected with the blue silicone hose held in place with fuel injection hose clamps then into a quarter turn valve, then into a coupling for the mount, then into a clear replaceable fuel filter, then into another piece of stainless tubing and into the banjo fitting at the injector pump.
Replaced the pivot bolts that hold the front cover in place (which were hard to get to at times) with a single long rod solid steel rod running through the frame and with a piece of pipe welded in between the two pivot tabs, with a clevis pin on both ends of the rod, so it is easy to pull the pin, slide the rod out and remove the cover, but also installed waterproof wiring connectors going to an air horn and the front LED lights, so I can unplug them when the cover is removed.
It had a grille from an old refrigerator, so I fabricated one from a piece of expanded metal and bolted it in place, welded up the holes for the original headlights and fabricated headlight mounts in front for 2 LED lights to mount, so I can angle them slightly for a better view at night.
Have installed an 8 space blade type fuse panel and 4 heavy duty relays for the cooling fan, the LED lights and the horn, replaced the water pump with a new unit, had the alternator rebuilt, extended the frame rails out in front so the battery can be mounted in a battery box which has drain holes for water to drain from with the bumper in front of that, replaced all of the wiring, discarded wiring that is no longer used such as for turn signals, replaced the glow plugs, the glow plug indicator (found new on eBay) and switch, wiring and all new battery cables with marine type cables and ends that are crimped on and heat shrunk.
Couldn't locate new radiator hoses, so I ordered silicone hoses and clamps with aluminum ID tubing and built my own hoses. Had an aFe air filter made for it with a Filter Wears pre-filter custom made for it, then used a piece of silicone hose and mounted it over and in front of the radiator, which is held in place by using a muffler clamp.
Am about to build a frame to mount to the top of both fenders using 1X2 inch rectangular steel tubing, then fabricate a 1-1/2 schedule 40 pipe roll-bar with an LED light bar mounted in the center on top which will look to the rear, then to use the same rectangular tubing to build a cover over the driver area, then angled tubing on both sides that will go from this driver cover to the front bumper, to keep low hanging tree limbs from trying to knock me off when I am using the bush hog.
The bush hog is about 40 inches wide, as it is heavy enough that the front of the tractor would come up off the ground when the clutch was released, so maybe the extra weight in front will also help with this problem as well.
When I first got this small tractor, it didn稚 have a rubber boot over the shifter, so I knew it was an entry point for rain water to enter into the transmission and hydraulic system. I searched on eBay and found a rubber shifter boot, and it does the job very nice to keep water from entering in by way of the shifter.
I do have a 2-1/2 gallon jug of Shell Rotella 15W-40 oil and a Wix filter that I will be changing before starting again, and will be adding Zerex Gold antifreeze and distilled water to about a 50/50 mix, then adding a bottle of Wetter Water to the radiator as well.
One concern I have with the Mitsubishi is, I don't know if it has a hydraulic filter that needs to be serviced or not, and being I don't have a manual (being there was never one printed in English), I don't know who to contact to find out, or where it would be located, or if there is even a drain plug to drain it. I know what fluid to replace it with (AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil), but don't really know where to fill it or how to check to make sure it is full. The last time I looked in the hole, it looked like there wasn稚 any oil or fluid inside the case, so I want to make sure before taking out on the maiden voyage. Any suggestions would surely be appreciated.